Briggs carb keeps flooding...

[CaptinStifles 1]

Hello everyone I have a briggs and stratton carberator that's keeps flooding when the engine is idling. I rebuilt the carb. I cleaned the seat and needle. I cleaned and replaced the set screws and cleaned the bowl. I made sure the float was still able to float in feul. The gaskets were replaced also. Every time I connect the gas line and open the gas shut off the carberator will start to flood once the carb bowl is full. I am lost and need help.

[Brettw 1,130]

They are known to potentially leak, and after your rebuild, something is obviously not seating or the float set correctly. I do know that many, f not most guys put a fuel shutoff in line with the carb, but if you are flooding out under idle, you have a significant compromise in the float / needle and seat.

[ss74nova 6]

Float may be set too high & not closing the needle valve in the seat. Can't remember offhand, but I think I had to bend the float tab to get it correct for the needle to close all the way on my 1970 12HP briggs.

Install a shut off valve in the fuel line before the carb also for safety. They are known to leak after they are shut off.

If it's an older briggs this book may help.

http://www.stripmine.org/sears/engine/briggs_older_engines.pdf

[CaptinStifles 1]

Ok I will put a shut off ASAP and the flood stopped a little bit mostly when it was half to full throttle. I will try to adjust the float tab. And btw the engine is a 1966 10hp briggs and stratton. It's on a simplicity b10 landlord.

[PhanDad 3,616]

You don't mention what engine the carb is from, but on the old 16HP cast iron single cylinder Briggs, I believe there are 2 types of float needles - one solid metal and the other rubber tipped. They have different seats and must be matched. There are different carb rebuild kits depending on what you have. Maybe your issue?

[CaptinStifles 1]

It's off a cast iron 10 hp one cylinder. The needle that was in there originally was a rubber tip so I got a rebuild kit that came with both full metal and rubber tipped needle. I cleaned the seat and needle and it's not flooding as bad so I think once I adjust the float tab it will fix the issue.

[dhoadley 1,747]

I've messed up that needle/seat match and the gas just poured out. The green seat needed to be set right side up, it was not "reversible". I'm not at all seasoned in this small-engine repair hobby and still have much to learn. This was just one of many lessons.:I Good luck, Dave

[CaptinStifles 1]

Ok thanks for the heads up.

[fishnwiz 3,290]

On one side of the rubber seat there are rings in the surface of the seat.The side with the rings goes into opening facing downward.

Best of luck.

[CaptinStifles 1]

are you talking about that little small green thing?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/28949926161_e7eedd0eac_b.jpg

[dhoadley 1,747]

quote:Originally posted by CaptinStifles

are you talking about that little small green thing?https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/28949926161_e7eedd0eac_b.jpg

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id="quote">

id="quote">Yup.

[fishnwiz 3,290]

Also be aware that you may have gas in your oil in the crankcase. After you get the flooding issue ironed out, change your oil.

[Kenh 37]

When I was a briggs tech Briggs had some videos on their technician web site detailing the fix needed. I'm no longer a tech so do not have access to that video but here is to the best of my knowledge what the fix was. Sometimes it is not the needle that is leaking. The fuel mixture assembly can leak. The sealing surface of the emulsion tube (called a nozzle in the link by ss74nova) is actually below the fuel level. You need to buy a new emulsion tube and sacrifice the old tube to make a lap. Remove the threads from the old tube and then coat the sealing surface of the tube with valve lapping compound. Insert into the carb and lap the seat when the tube seats. Clean VERY WELL and install your new tube. This should solve the flooding problem.

Follow the link in ss74nova post. In section 3 page 45 is a view of what I'm writing about. I don't think the pictured carb is exactly the carb being discussed, but you should get the general idea.

Ken

EDIT: Found this, Post #4 shows exactly what I'm talking about.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/317671-stuck-bowl-yazoo-briggs-engine.html

[CaptinStifles 1]

ok thanks i will try this when i get time!