gravey72 58 Posted September 16, 2016 Ive been repairing these fairly easy. I remove the roller bar and rollers. Cut the old bar off the bracket. Use a 5/8" hole saw to drill the old bracket where old rod went thru. Tractor supply sells a 48" length of 5/8" solid rod, need to cut maybe 2" off. Weld new rod onto old bracket, drill a hole at each end for cotter pins and youre done(almost). Didn't know if its ever been covered before but I know most roller bars are missing at least 1 end if not 2. Ive been filling the middle all the way across and not using any washers or cotter pins in the middle, only on the ends Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yukon 331 Posted September 16, 2016 thanks for your input sounds easy enough for me to do.i just checked the other day and my simplicity dealer told me that the roller bar was 125.00. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gravey72 58 Posted September 16, 2016 Forgot to add the price, tractor supply sells the rod for $13.99, I thought it was very fair. I too noticed oem prices well over $100, so I started thinking... Sometimes I try to think but nothing happens... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeES 458 Posted September 16, 2016 Be sure to use cold rolled steel bar, hot rolled will bend way too easy. Cold rolled will be smooth, hot rolled will be a little scaly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted September 18, 2016 Make sure you add a weld to the one side to keep the bar from spinning. If the bar spins it will wear a break point at the supports fairly quickly. Been there... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gravey72 58 Posted September 28, 2016 I have a oem one on the shelf, I took some measurements since some people may not know the oem measurements if theyre missing the ends. Total length is about 45-1/4", 7-1/2" on one side of welded bar, about 38-1/4" other side of bar. Bar is about 3/8" thick but I'm assuming you have that! Hope that helps ' Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilinSam 4,028 Posted September 28, 2016 Shouldnt have to use a hole saw. I just cut the bar off the welded side of the bracket and then grind into the bracket a little till the weld is gone and it pops right out of the bracket. Then just weld the new rod in on the same side. Just have to use a square and clamp everything good so when you weld the rod in the bracket stays perpendicular to the rod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary 101 Posted September 29, 2016 I welded 5/8" ID shaft collars w/set screws, to the adjuster arms, so I can easily remove the bar without having to remove anything else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brettw 1,127 Posted September 29, 2016 Gary, kinda looks like a Cinemascope tractor there! (The young guys won't have a clue what that means) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dhoadley 1,744 Posted September 30, 2016 10 hours ago, Brettw said: Gary, kinda looks like a Cinemascope tractor there! (The young guys won't have a clue what that means) I guess, conversely, that if I get the Cinemascope that makes me an old guy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites