gravey72 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Ive been repairing these fairly easy. I remove the roller bar and rollers. Cut the old bar off the bracket. Use a 5/8" hole saw to drill the old bracket where old rod went thru. Tractor supply sells a 48" length of 5/8" solid rod, need to cut maybe 2" off. Weld new rod onto old bracket, drill a hole at each end for cotter pins and youre done(almost). Didn't know if its ever been covered before but I know most roller bars are missing at least 1 end if not 2. Ive been filling the middle all the way across and not using any washers or cotter pins in the middle, only on the ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yukon Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 thanks for your input sounds easy enough for me to do.i just checked the other day and my simplicity dealer told me that the roller bar was 125.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravey72 Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 Forgot to add the price, tractor supply sells the rod for $13.99, I thought it was very fair. I too noticed oem prices well over $100, so I started thinking... Sometimes I try to think but nothing happens... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeES Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Be sure to use cold rolled steel bar, hot rolled will bend way too easy. Cold rolled will be smooth, hot rolled will be a little scaly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentwizz Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Make sure you add a weld to the one side to keep the bar from spinning. If the bar spins it will wear a break point at the supports fairly quickly. Been there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravey72 Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 I have a oem one on the shelf, I took some measurements since some people may not know the oem measurements if theyre missing the ends. Total length is about 45-1/4", 7-1/2" on one side of welded bar, about 38-1/4" other side of bar. Bar is about 3/8" thick but I'm assuming you have that! Hope that helps ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilinSam Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 Shouldnt have to use a hole saw. I just cut the bar off the welded side of the bracket and then grind into the bracket a little till the weld is gone and it pops right out of the bracket. Then just weld the new rod in on the same side. Just have to use a square and clamp everything good so when you weld the rod in the bracket stays perpendicular to the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 I welded 5/8" ID shaft collars w/set screws, to the adjuster arms, so I can easily remove the bar without having to remove anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brettw Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Gary, kinda looks like a Cinemascope tractor there! (The young guys won't have a clue what that means) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoadley Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 10 hours ago, Brettw said: Gary, kinda looks like a Cinemascope tractor there! (The young guys won't have a clue what that means) I guess, conversely, that if I get the Cinemascope that makes me an old guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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