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CaptinStifles

Weak spark?

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CaptinStifles

Hello everyone i have a simplicity 2010 landlord and the spark is weak. The spark plug, magneto, condenser are all new. The points are clean. I rewired all of the wires that had to do with the spark plug or ignition switch. I set the points to .020 and there was no spark. I set it to .005 and i had a week spark. could a battery with a low charge be the problem? if so what else could be the issue? Any help is appreciated!

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Tarheel

 The only part your battery plays is in turning the engine at start up. The ignition system is fully contained on the engine with only the key switch being outside and it grounds the ignition to kill the spark. Meaning that you can remove the engine from the tractor and start it with a pull rope if you want.

 If I were you, I would trace the wire from the switch to the engine and disconnect it. This removes the chance that the switch has a short. Now check the spark. If its better, replace the switch.

 Next, remove the spark plug and turn the engine by hand until the points close. Take a dollar bill and place it between the points and pull it through them. The reason for this is that the points sometimes have a film on them and will not make good contact until cleaned. You can use carb cleaner or such if you like as well. Now turn the engine by hand until the points have fully opened then check the gap.

  If you still have a weak spark, replace the new condenser with the old one and check for spark again.

The above is the way I start out with a spark problem. Things that I have failed to mention are basic. The area around the points should be clean and dry (oil free) and if the points mounting surface looks rusty or varnished, then clean with sand paper. Neither the points or the condenser can work without a good ground.

  As a last resort, you might look at an Atom II ignition module. They don't cost very much and they take the place of the points. (Leave your points in place on the engine thought) So you no longer have to worry about points going bad or getting dirty or even wet.

 Hope this helps. Good luck

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sandyhillbill

Also check the gap between the flywheel and the mag.--be sure it is rust free and set close--

I use a thin post card placed between to set the gap. You could also check the magnet on the flywheel

to be sure it has not lost it's magnetism--very rare for this to be the case but I remember one time

many years ago--if memory serves me it had no spark.

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CaptinStifles

OK so i set the gap on the magneto with a stander business card. I will disconnect the ignition switch and ill clean the gaps and see if those help. Thanks for your help!

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Brettw

I asked about a new plug, but see you have replaced it.  I would still try another.  I had fits one time, and it was a brand new plug that ended up being the culprit.

Edited by Brettw

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MrSteele

If you read the instructions with your new mag, they would have told you how to space the mag/flywheel gap. Using the instruction sheet, fold so that 3 thicknesses of paper can be used for the spacing. With the magnet under the mag, loosen it and allow the mag to slide  to the magnet, tighten the bolts and remove the paper. Weak spark is usually either that gap is too wide or a bad condenser

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bkassulke

Have you checked the gap on your spark plug? I ran into an briggs engine I worked on for a gentleman that he had put a new spark plug in it and gapped it for a similar gap for an GM Hei distributer and the ignition system had a tough time jumping the gap.

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Simplicity7013H

I usually try to adjust the points little by little until you get spark. I would also try to re gap the magneto and check condenser. 

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Bill725

Consider changing to Magnetron magneto for $40 and repolarize the flywheel and you will never have to deal with this problem ever again. My engine starts easier and runs better.

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theniteowl

The thing that has most often caused weak spark on mine have been points that needed cleaning.  I have swapped out the points for electronic modules on two engines with good results.

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