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23D Briggs engine


BradB

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I wrote in here a while back about rebuilding my 1963 B-10 motor and may I say all of the suggestions helped greatly. However, when I took my crankshaft down to a machinist to check it to see if it could be ground, he told me it was already ground down as far as it could go. Well, in the meantime I gathered all of my parts together from a newer B-10, a 10hp Briggs with just a scored piston, and I overhauled that one instead. I figured I would put the new B-10's motor into my old 1963 B-10's frame so I could still use it for my "main" mowing tractor. I would like to overhaul the old motor sometime when I get more money, but I need to mow more lawns to make more money first. My question to all of you is how common is it to find a good crank for a 23D Briggs motor? I live in Minnesota, where might some good places be to look for one? Any answers would be greatly appriciated. Thank you-Brad
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I have a part engine for the same reasons. It is cheaper to buy a complete, running engine in some cases than try and rebuild the old one. We probably have the same pile of scrap metal. If you find a (rebuilt, new, remanufactured crankshaft) supplier let me know.
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Hi Brad, We have a 23d that came out of a runnig tractor. I do not think it has ever been torn down. It ran good, but used oil like there was no tomorrow. I am sure it could be reground to the proper spechs. Where are you from in the land of 10,000 lakes. We are in Plainview, about 20 miles NE of Rochester. I can check the crank if you are interested.
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Brad, seems the best place to look for this old iron is in the wooded back yards as you drive down the road, I call it rubber-neckin..MPH
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Motors are not supposed to smoke. If it smokes something is done improperly or something is overlooked. Was the cyliner bore honed to specification to allow the rings to seat properly? What about the valve guides? Waiting for the oil to get low on a splash type system isn't right either...Woody
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Woody, yes to honing & guides, I do have some trepidation about the rings tho. Chrome face rings were the only type available (on the shelf) when I did it and later after the engine was all together a fellow who's forgot more than I'll ever know about engines said good luck getting them seated. Sometimes all the cyl. wall scuffing in the world wont seat them in. I dunno, maybe I made a boo-boo puttin them in instead of the regular iron ones. Dick
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Brad, I am in Chanhassen and have a crank that I would be willing to part with. You must have a heated garage or workspace. I tried to work on an engine in the sewing room in the basement and the better half said no. Still negotiating on the sewing room. If you want the crankshaft give me an e-mail and we can work it out. I work in Eden Prairie if that is closer for you.
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Jonette, I'm from the Mankato area, which is where I had Ray Funk (who was recommended to me by some neighbors) check out my crankshaft and to bore the cylinder chamber out. I actually live in a small town called Madelia, which is about 20-25 miles east of Mankato. I had the same problem with my 23D engine, that is it ran good, but smoked really bad when you put fresh oil in it. Once the oil level got low again though, it stopped smoking! Putter, if I ever find a couple of crankshafts anywhere, I'll try to get in touch with you on this site sometime.
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Brad I have 23-D and it has been completely rebuilt ie, rings, valve job, new plunger bushing for the points. It has .010 over piston and the bore and piston are in spec. BUT it smokes generously when first started then clears up. Maybe just something they do. I dont know. Dick
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Chrome rings are great in a Model 19. I used to have to re-ring my engine every few years until I put chrome rings in. They lasted 2 or 3 times as long as the standard rings. Pulling a 42" deck with 7 1/4 hp when it is 95° F outside and WOT (wide open throttle) the whole time is rough on an engine. The chrome rings stood it to the abuse much better. BTW, I'm still running the original crankshaft. It had some slight scoring and a hint of blue color (from overheating) on the PTO end the last time I rebuilt it. I lightly polished the scored area and made sure the axial clearance was OK upon reassembly. It is still running OK. Roy
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Bufford- How much would you be willing to part with your crankshaft for? I am assuming it is a crank from a 23D Briggs engine, because I know that that is the only crank that will work in that engine. You can tell by looking to see if it has bushings on it,which is the correct crank, instead of bearings. You probably know more about it than I do, but I know the whole bushing/bearing thing fooled me and I just want to be sure. I don't know as to how soon I might buy it, or even if I will, depending how much I earn this season. Thank you for reading this post and please write back or email me with the details.
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