a_sannine 855 Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) I have a 1982/3 16hp Kohler K341 engine that broke a rod. After getting the engine apart, I found the crank in good shape but it chipped chunk out of the bottom of the bore. What kinds of salvage methods are there to keep from having to replace the block? What kind of experiences have people had with sort of thing? Thanks Edited November 8, 2016 by a_sannine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hick 2,229 Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) One thing you'll find out is that rebuilding a Kohler can be very pricey! I rebuilt my K341 and found out the hard way! There were THREE different piston choices, and mine (wouldn't you know it) was discontinued! So I had to buy a new connecting rod as well!!! (The pin to deck height of the replacement piston was different.) Of course, the piston that was available was the most expensive one! And the rings were also priced accordingly! At the time, I could have bought a rebuild kit for my Chevy 350 for what I had in the Kohler. I decided when this engine was toast, I'd put in a twin Briggs. But I have another Kohler on standby from some other horse-trading. Having said all that, looking at that damage I'd run a cylinder hone through to smooth up the edges and call it good. The amount broke off is minimal. Edited November 8, 2016 by Hick 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
a_sannine 855 Posted November 8, 2016 Thanks Hick That's what I was thinking to do , smooth that damage hone that bore and refresh it with one of those after market kits sold on ebay for like $120 ,I never used but OEM in all the engines I did , but I am not that worried about going crazy spending a ton of on this one as I have a complete engine on the shelve that is like new . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theniteowl 29 Posted November 8, 2016 I would imagine that the block can be bored out and a cast iron sleeve installed to bring it back to original spec or then bored to whatever piston size you need. How much this would cost I have no idea. When my K341 broke the rod it snapped close to the piston so it was long, fell out of the cylinder and slammed sideways into the block creating a nice long cracked open and bent spot in the side wall. *Sigh* 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
720nut 4,225 Posted November 8, 2016 Just clean up and new rod and piston, not like your building a race engine. Just my $,02 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
a_sannine 855 Posted November 8, 2016 1 hour ago, 720nut said: Just clean up and new rod and piston, not like your building a race engine. Just my $,02 I agree 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris727 2,022 Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) Make sure you don't have any hairline cracks in the block. Sometimes they can be hard to see until the block is cleaned up good. I had a k321 that was a running engine but leaked oil. Turned out the block was cracked across the decking above the flywheel bearing plate. This was from the rod hitting the cam before the p/o rebuilt it. Edited November 8, 2016 by Chris727 Add content Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lugnard 73 Posted November 9, 2016 If you don't see any cracks that could continue, then I would get a set of small machinist files and smooth the edges of the broken area. Not just at the bottom of the bore but where it goes into the block as well. the thinking...not mine of course!...is that you would be relieving the likelihood of a crack developing due to the rough broken edges. These sets usually have about 4 or 5 files. Round,half round,square etc. Nice to have around for other stuff too. Harry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
720nut 4,225 Posted November 9, 2016 (edited) I've always used a torch to look for cracks , heat will cause cast iron to open if it is cracked has always worked foe me Just my $.02 Edited November 9, 2016 by 720nut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
a_sannine 855 Posted November 9, 2016 Great valuable inputs , thanks guys ,i'll make sure I'll check for those hair line cracks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horvik 31 Posted November 15, 2016 Hello; If it were me I would try to be patient and pickup a used block from fleabay, where I had good luck. On the other hand, if I had the chunk and had to, I would stick weld it back together with nickel rod. For the work involved, I would look at the first option, or better yet pickup a used engine in its entirety. Hope this helps 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
a_sannine 855 Posted December 6, 2016 This beast up and running like top , I rebuilt it with one of the kits sold on eBay for $130 , I smoothed the damage area ,lapped/ adjusted valves , good honing job , major cleaning /digressing. I deleted the Balance Gears , ( I am glad I did ) u won't tell the deference, I think it is running better now lol. The kit looks good quality , I never used but OEM in all the rebuilt I did , but the cost was up the roof with this one , so time will tell how long it will last this aftermarket kit . This engine fired right up super smooth and quite with no abnormal noises or issues , ran it for like an hour at 2800 RPM , no smoke what so ever , it's like the rings seated right in . Fun fun fun Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
720nut 4,225 Posted December 7, 2016 Glad it all worked out for ya 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites