DONE! Brinly Plow Mount Project: With Pix

[Hick 2,229]

Got a 12" Brinly plow from my brother, he wouldn't take any money for it. The integral hitch on my JD 210 is homemade that actually started out as a rear blade / ripper.  Cut the beam off so it is detachable and now I have to make an adapter for the plow.

Edited November 21, 2016 by Hick
Update

[720nut 4,225]

Lookin good Know we all love to plow , regardless what color that may be

[Hick 2,229]

Funny thing is, when I get the plow working it will be mainly for ONE job: digging a trench to run a plastic line out to the drip-line for my trees.
But then again, I may "find" a few more uses for it . . .

[Mike_H 92]

Drip line for trees?  maple syrup?  I help my dad every season.   Last year,  we had 110 trees tapped.  it's a fun way to spend an afternoon, tending the fire and bs'ing

[Hick 2,229]

8 hours ago, Mike_H said:

Drip line for trees?  maple syrup?  I help my dad every season.   Last year,  we had 110 trees tapped.  it's a fun way to spend an afternoon, tending the fire and bs'ing

No, irrigation drip line.  But it is for Maple trees! I tapped into a huge Maple at our old house one day, got a lot of sap.  Attempted to boil it down, and discovered the time between almost syrup and hard maple candy is about 2 minutes!!!
Tried again, worked good.  13:1 sap/syrup ratio out of a Silver Maple.

[Hick 2,229]

While the chicken was smoking on the grill, and with my rooster supervising my work, I got it done this afternoon.
First, a picture to show the ripper / blade beam on the hitch.  This is about the 6th generation rebuild; it started as a solid beam on another tractor, then morphed from there as I added features & changed tractors.  It may wind up on the Deutz, since it has hydraulics. (the ripper alone weighs 75#!)
The short channel on top with the holes is to change attack angle of the ripper / blade. I can drop the ripper off and put a blade on; it has the ability to be angled.
Pull the front pin on it and the bottom pin on the main beam, and it comes right off.

Here is the adaptor I made to hook the plow onto the hitch.  I had the tractor setting up on 6" blocks to make sure the plow would go down at least 6".  We'll see how that idea works out when I put it to work! I show how it fits in the hitch, and then in the plow. It is a tight fit so it does not move up or down.

And here is the plow with the tractor on the ground, set according to the manual to make the first cut at 6" depth.  Won't be able to try it out as the ground is frozen now. And then a pix with it lifted.

If you want to see more of my projects (including the Cat-style dozer on the front of this tractor, head on over to my FB album "Tractors & Other Toys".
https://www.facebook.com/gary.hickman.54/media_set?set=a.103194999763734.7073.100002197026390&type=3

[fishnwiz 3,290]

SWEEEEET!!

[MikeES 458]

Won't the hitch for the plow need to be at an angle?    That is how the Allis and Brinley hitches are setup to offset the right side wheel in the furrow and the left wheel up on the "land".

[Hick 2,229]

2 hours ago, MikeES said:

Won't the hitch for the plow need to be at an angle?    That is how the Allis and Brinley hitches are setup to offset the right side wheel in the furrow and the left wheel up on the "land".

Wondered about that, but there is nothing in the instruction book that mentions it.  Just shows hooking onto a standard integral hitch.
Guess I'll find out, and may need more tweaking. It's what I do best!

[Hick 2,229]

Worked on the rear blade today.  Widened it 10" to match the front dozer and ripper width of 52".  Need to get some more iron to make the corner bits.
Tractor is 40" across the tires / chains.

[BLT 718]

I shimmed mine up to match the hitch angle and to get the tip down about a 1/2" down.

 

[Argee 15]

 

This will help with setup.

 

http://www.brinly.com/graphics/manuals/PP_51BH.pdf

 

[Hick 2,229]

4 hours ago, Argee said:

This will help with setup.

http://www.brinly.com/graphics/manuals/PP_51BH.pdf

 

Yeah, that was what I was using.

 

[tadams 989]

Your plowing in a drip line so you won't have one wheel in a furrow

[Hick 2,229]

3 hours ago, tadams said:

Your plowing in a drip line so you won't have one wheel in a furrow

Right, and it won't be critical for how level the bottom of the furrow is.
I wonder, once the drip line is in, if I could run the opposite way and roll the sod back into the furrow?
Nah, probably wouldn't get that lucky!!

[Gary 101]

That's where the dozer/snow blade comes in handy.

[fishnwiz 3,290]

I am envious of all of you guy's with those awesome fabrication skills. 

I would need a much better shop then my garage and alot more tools just to learn these abilities. Very impressive.

[720nut 4,225]

Gary you might be able to but it would be a very slow process, even with front or back blade it would probably want to ball up instead of rolling over like you want.

By the way nice fab job.  Just my $.02

[Hick 2,229]

Yeah, doubt if the dozer or even the rear blade at a steep angle would roll it back in. I was referring to the moldboard plow, if it would roll it back in. In theory, it should open up and roll over as a continuous roll of sod, which should then roll back in IF I could get the plow under it right. Then again, with our sandy soil . . .
I guess I'll find out next year when things thaw out. I have to get a line of stumps out first. My brother brought his Bobcat with tree saw out to cut the trees.  That was a hurry-up job, now we need to get rid of the stumps. His saw will cut them at ground level or below.  Then I can put in a new dripline.
 

[Hick 2,229]

10 hours ago, fishnwiz said:

I am envious of all of you guy's with those awesome fabrication skills. 

I would need a much better shop then my garage and alot more tools just to learn these abilities. Very impressive.

I don't have anything really fancy.
My welders are an acetylene torch, a cheapie 110V Lincoln wire feed welder (the one I was told to avoid 12 years ago! ), and an ancient 220 stick welder (seldom used any more). It is an old copper-wound made in Omaha; don't recall the brand.  Bought it from an old employer for $50.  A week later one of the mechanics handed me a big box of welding rod worth more than the $50!
My fabrication tools are a 4" angle grinder, a 14" cut-off saw, air grinders & cut-offs, hand drills and drill press with an assortment of drills & hole saws. I also have a power hack saw and a recip saw, but don't really use them that much. Would be nice to have a metal lathe and plasma cutter, but that's gonna happen only if I win the lottery!

Oh, and the acetylene torch also doubles as a mole blaster! I open the breathing mounds up and find the hole that goes straight down. I set the torch for a real hot cut, then tap the tip on the ground to kill the flame.  Hold the tip in the hole for a count of 40 to 50. Pull the tip away from the hole, relight it, the CAREFULLY bring it down alongside the hole.  You will be rewarded with a nice BANG, the ground will heave, and the concussion will kill the mole.
An added benefit, if you do it a bit after dusk, is an AWESOME flame coming out of the hole!