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Simplicity 9020 project


jlasater

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Finally got my 9020 unloaded today. My neighbor who picked it up for me on a trip said it rolled on, but it's not rolling now. I'm thinking there's water somewhere where it shouldn't be and it froze. Brakes or rear-end, I assume. Still...it's a good project for a restoration. Used a chain to the forklift in the background acting as a deadman, and just drove the trailer out from under it. Only dropped about six inches.

 

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Edited by jlasater
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Drain the rear and transmission, mine had set outside for a few years got water in trans, froze broke case. I had to vee it out and weld it up.

Also had to replace the hydro unit as the water pretty much messed everything up.

Sure would be interested in that loader if you wanted to sell.

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Technically 5, if you include the '55 John Deere 40C and mid-50's Hyster Spacesaver forklift.

Got the tractor pushed into the shop tonight. One of the brakes is dragging so will attend to that soon. Pulled the transmission cover off to have a look. Looked pretty good other than some chipped teeth on the intermediate PTO gear on the tail-end of the transmission.

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This is something I've never seen before. I don't know if a PO was trying to strengthen the front end or to cover up the fact that it needed maintenance. Note the arms and extra tie-rod across the *back* of the spindles.

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PO had installed a separate push button starter for some reason. There's a bit of a bodged wiring job at various places. I really like the rock-hard (what was once) clear plastic ignition wire on the left side of the engine and the crazy fuel hose routing.

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Believe it or not, but the battery seems to be good...for now...and the fuel pump rattles when I turn the key on. The short term plan is to flush the fuel tank out a bit, blow some fuel through the fuel lines, clean the carb, drain the oil, flush the engine with some kerosene, let drain for a while, and add a new filter and oil. Will crank with the plugs out and grounded for a bit to make sure oil is flowing internally....then will see if she starts. May do a compression test first though.

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Loaders are very hard on the light front axle , I reinforced mine but bought a heavy axle.

I'ld change oil in trans looks like it's got water in it which means it's in the hydro unit to.

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That will be a great project! I have been trying to find a Danco loader for years!! I would watch for a heavy front end off a later 9020, or 720 to replace what you have now. In fact I have a AC 720 parts tractor that is mostly complete that I would trade for the loader?

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So if this has a somewhat light front end under it, what year/serial number 9020's would have a heavier one? And are there a couple dimensions I can have measured while looking to tell if I'm actually getting a later model front end? Or...just look for one out of a 720 and call it good? Will that affect mounting any accessories or is it just a bolt-in affair?

What is the best way to flush the hydro? Can I hook up a pressure tank with the correct fluid in it and just pump it in through one of the ports on the side? Or does the hydro have to be spinning (engine started) to flush it out? Or...just empty it, refill, run, empty it, refill...etc until the fluid looks ok?

I appreciate the enthusiasm over the loader, but I (and local friends) have a lot of projects that it will be handy for...so it's staying :-)

If you're interested in selling the front end from your tractor, Scott, let me know.

Edited by jlasater
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Jeremy, this is the axle they are referring to this is in my 720, front and rear view. It is just a bolt in Look to spend anywhere from$200-350 on a complete axle.

Some where on here I have pictures of small axle and the way I reinforced it, I'm not good at finding these things

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Jeremy something does not look right about the front end, other than the added steering link. I you look at Lloyds picture of the 720 you can see the beam is welded in the middle at the top and the edges are radiused, where your beam almost looks like solid bar? From what I can see of your decals it looks like your tractor is one of the "System" tractors which should narrow down the year of manufacture. I wonder if at some point the front end was damaged and replaced by someone with fabrication skills? 

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Scott I'm going to take an uneducated guess but I'ld say they broke the front axle and this was there fix.

Black axle is light duty without spindles and orange is heavy duty that everyone wants. Hope this helps some

 

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Edited by 720nut
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That milky pink appearance to the hydro fluid is a sign of water. Hydro fluid is made to absorb and hold some amount of water but still good to get it out of there.  Seems like there was a complete drain and refill procedure in the manual but am not near it to look.

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54 minutes ago, 720nut said:

Scott I'm going to take an uneducated guess but I'ld say they broke the front axle and this was there fix.

Black axle is light duty without spindles and orange is heavy duty that everyone wants. Hope this helps some

 

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Lloyd, could you measure the outside diameter of the drop tubes and the height and width dimensions of the rectangular main side to side tube to see if they are any different.

 

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5 hours ago, jlasater said:

Is the axle itself upgraded? Or just the spindles and steering gear?

The "knuckle" on top of the spindle is the giveaway. Like in Lloyds picture of the orange unit,  If it has the rounded casting on top it is the later model heavy duty.  I bought an AC620 with mods to axle done by previous owner to handle loader service.  I still take it easy turning and moving with my 9020 when using the loader even though it has the heavier front axle parts.  Pic of the 620 below, NOT my welding : )

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Edited by isetta
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I can't swear to it but I think the only difference between the early version and the later is the heavier knuckle. I can check tomorrow. I have a 620 and 720 sitting side by side.

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1 hour ago, Scott Salmons said:

I can't swear to it but I think the only difference between the early version and the later is the heavier knuckle. I can check tomorrow. I have a 620 and 720 sitting side by side.

Lucky guy Scott dOd

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I've seen no difference other than the spindles are heavier. I have the 620 axle apart and believe they are 1 in. diameter and the 720 which I've not had apart are 1.125 diameter. Seems I read that somewhere 

Been waiting for Phil or John to chime in here. Not sure wether it gives the measurements in manuals or not.

I'll try and get those measurements later today.

Rick really looks like someone really abused that one

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I checked PN#s on early verses later 9020 and they do have different numbers for the spindle. I believe Lloyd is correct in saying that the spindle on the newer version is also heavier as well as the knuckle.

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Ok here's some measurements:

Fabricated box tube is 1.5 x 3 in x 27.5 in cut on angle, both axles are same length, same mounting and so forth.

Light axle is 1in. on spindles and heavy is 1.125 can be measured next to weld under bearing which is different on each model.

Outside of spindle tube is 1.5 in. on light axle and 1.630 on the heavy. They use different bearings on spindle and hub which here is a picture of the hubs orange is 720 and black is 620, I believe you can see the difference.

Bolt pattern same on both axles.

I hope this clears up some things about these axles. In which being mine depending on the use as to wether I'ld spend the extra money and time to change them. Just my $.02

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Thanks for all that Lloyd, great info to have, sounds like the spindles and knuckle were beefed up along with the drop tubes.  Any thoughts about thickness of the major weldment?  Maybe made from beefier steel?.   Yes that unit was rode hard, broke up, patched, welded and rode some more. 

Edited by isetta
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Rick only way to know thickness would be to drill a small hole and weld shut.

After looking at Jeremys axle it looks like a solid piece of bar stock and if you look real close it's welded on straight as it has no slight angle like the stock axles have.

I would be sure and check all the front end on that tractor because it takes a lot to destroy of these tractors, I seriously doubt 500 lbs did that kind of damage as that's what they rated these loaders at.

I've heard stories about people breaking the light axle but never really saw on till now.

And so everyone knows I'm not trying to be an expert on these but mirely my thoughts.

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Nice info Lloyd. I think Jeremy needs to find a front axle assembly on e-bay or CL they come up from time to time. What he has will probably do for a while. He has other things to iron out.

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3 hours ago, 720nut said:

Rick only way to know thickness would be to drill a small hole and weld shut.

After looking at Jeremys axle it looks like a solid piece of bar stock and if you look real close it's welded on straight as it has no slight angle like the stock axles have.

I would be sure and check all the front end on that tractor because it takes a lot to destroy of these tractors, I seriously doubt 500 lbs did that kind of damage as that's what they rated these loaders at.

I've heard stories about people breaking the light axle but never really saw on till now.

And so everyone knows I'm not trying to be an expert on these but mirely my thoughts.

I think they can handle the lift and dump but a fast turn with a full bucket puts a lot of stress on the front end especially over uneven ground, but then none of us would ever do that 666

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