B-10 Safety ideas needed

[Vagabond 114]

Had fun plowing with B-10 this morning but ran into a scary situation.  As I came to a stop at the end of the driveway to wait for a car to pass, my foot slipped off the end of the brake/clutch pedal rather like a pumpkin seed from between two finger tips.  This happened at least three times while plowing.

I've thought of two possible modifications.   1)  Weld on a shallow rectangular cleat, or 2) Drill and tap several holes and screw in some hardened steel, hex head machine screws, with anti- seize lubricant.

Has anyone modified the pedal of their GT  for this reason?  Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[Kent 435]

I think rough textured rubber would give the best all-season traction.  Think of foot pegs on motorcycles or pedals on bicycles to maybe get the creative juices flowing...  

 

[Vagabond 114]

Yes.  That's worth experimenting with.  I'll have to ponder on how I might attach such a material.  Maybe I could find a destroyed Bridgestone Blizzak tire to cannibalize.  Thanks Kent.

[720nut 4,225]

If your sliding off' weld a tab on end of pedal so as to keep your foot where it should be .

May even weld some spot to ruffen up pedal, but tab should do the job.

[Vagabond 114]

That's a great idea.  Very simple. Thanks 720nut.

[spi 418]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xnonskid+tape.TRS0&_nkw=nonskid+tape&_sacat=0

Wouldn't this work?

[720nut 4,225]

15 minutes ago, spi said:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xnonskid+tape.TRS0&_nkw=nonskid+tape&_sacat=0

Wouldn't this work?

Yes it would to a point but has a tendency to wear off, remember your dealing with snow and ice that would fill when cold.

[Vagabond 114]

23 minutes ago, spi said:

Wouldn't this work?

Thanks spi!  I considered that but don't have a smooth surface for it to adhere to.  And I'd like whatever solution I choose to be 'BULLET PROOF'.  So, it needs to work even if snow or mud gets packed on top of it.

[rokon2813 272]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-60-Black-Roll-Safety-Non-Skid-Tape-Anti-Slip-Tape-Sticker-Grip-Safe-Grit-/272536715203?hash=item3f74743fc3:g:BZ0AAOSwA3dYi3qo

I have some of this and it works very well on other surfaces. Never tried it on a clutch pedal but I would not hesitate to try it.

Rather than buy a 60' roll, I'd be happy to mail you a few inches.

Also, I had one tractor that had what looked like a piece of heavy garden hose slid on the pedal. It was stretched tight and never moved in several years. I don't recall sliding off of it....

 

[720nut 4,225]

A lot of other models have a tab as I was reffering to , never understood  why they didn't do it to these models. 

 I may just add to all of mine to avert any problems in the future.

[Vagabond 114]

1 hour ago, rokon2813 said:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-60-Black-Roll-Safety-Non-Skid-Tape-Anti-Slip-Tape-Sticker-Grip-Safe-Grit-/272536715203?hash=item3f74743fc3:g:BZ0AAOSwA3dYi3qo

I have some of this and it works very well on other surfaces. Never tried it on a clutch pedal but I would not hesitate to try it.

Rather than buy a 60' roll, I'd be happy to mail you a few inches.

Also, I had one tractor that had what looked like a piece of heavy garden hose slid on the pedal. It was stretched tight and never moved in several years. I don't recall sliding off of it....

 

.

Thanks Dan!  These are all great ideas.  I like the idea of slipping something rubber over it, if not welding a tab on.  Some of the motorcycle foot rests are flatter, and if long enough, they do have a raised lip at the end. Also, what do you think about welding two small rectangular cleats on with serrated edges?  Keeping the profile low, and salvaging an old hand crosscut or rip saw, or something like that?  I keep thinking about how so many bigger tractors have those reverse dimpled holes in the pedals to reduce slippage.

[Vagabond 114]

1 hour ago, 720nut said:

A lot of other models have a tab as I was reffering to , never understood  why they didn't do it to these models. 

 I may just add to all of mine to avert any problems in the future.

Lloyd, how, for lack of a better term, erect are these tabs you've seen on other tractors.  Are they tallish (1/2 inch or more) and made of flat steel, or are they kind of low and rounded, cast or forged as part of the pedal?  I could do or imitate either. Not to impose too much, would you have a picture?

[720nut 4,225]

This is what the 620/720's have and is what I was referring to

It's approximately 1/2 in high just enough to keep your foot from slipping

First clutch pedal, second brake

There's a good possibility that someone has a pedal off one of these tractors that you could remove the pad  and fab to yours.

Edited February 12, 2017 by 720nut

[rokon2813 272]

45 minutes ago, Vagabond said:

.

Thanks Dan!  These are all great ideas.  I like the idea of slipping something rubber over it, if not welding a tab on.  Some of the motorcycle foot rests are flatter, and if long enough, they do have a raised lip at the end. Also, what do you think about welding two small rectangular cleats on with serrated edges?  Keeping the profile low, and salvaging an old hand crosscut or rip saw, or something like that?  I keep thinking about how so many bigger tractors have those reverse dimpled holes in the pedals to reduce slippage.

I have several pedals off later tractors that have the lip at the end, and the dimpled holes. I can compare one to an earlier one. They MAY be interchangeable or you could just cut the foot portion off and weld it over the original pedal.

 

[rokon2813 272]

No, shafts are longer and the flats on the inside are a different angle, so not a direct swap.

I see reason you could not weld a newer pedal over an older one though.

Also, this is the one with the rubber slid over.

Or, you could probably just drill a couple holes and bolt it on.

 

Edited February 12, 2017 by rokon2813

[rokon2813 272]

Thinking about serrated edges, not sure if those might damage a soft soled shoe....

With your bolt idea, just drill through holes, use nuts on the back. No tapping required and if they don't come out when you want them to, just break them...

[Vagabond 114]

 

---I see reason you could not weld a newer pedal over an older one though.

Now we're talkin' turkey!  Need to cheaply source the pedal though...

[rokon2813 272]

1 hour ago, Vagabond said:

 

---I see reason you could not weld a newer pedal over an older one though.

Now we're talkin' turkey!  Need to cheaply source the pedal though...

Really ?? LOL  $15 mailed to your door.

[PGL 438]

What about a bicycle pedal?

[Vagabond 114]

24 minutes ago, PGL said:

What about a bicycle pedal?

Thanks PGL.  That's not a bad idea.  Actually looked at some on ebay yesterday thinking I might find something usable.

[Vagabond 114]

Thank you everyone for the excellent suggestions.  I'm inclined to use the 'tab at the end' idea as proposed by 720nut, with the deluxe solution proposed by rokon2813 of bolting or welding on a well designed pedal from a donor tractor.  And thank you Rokon2813, I accept your offer and will launch a MO for $15 as soon as (if) this snow ends.  Were it a more expensive part, I would have just welded a tab on, but for $15 bucks?  I'd call it a no brainer.

 

[720nut 4,225]

First picture Dan posted just grind weld off shafts and remove from pedal and weld on your shaft. Would be my fix then it would look more original.

[Vagabond 114]

20 minutes ago, 720nut said:

First picture Dan posted just grind weld off shafts and remove from pedal and weld on your shaft. Would be my fix then it would look more original.

Just now noticed that the first set of pics were posted by you, Lloyd, and the second by Dan.  So, that would be the ultimate mod.  I like it.  I like it a lot!