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Nuts! B10 won't turn over.


Vagabond

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Went out yesterday, removed trickle charger, pushed the start button, got a dull, quiet thunk from SG, and a quiet hissing, like sound of a distant faucet running, from regulator.  Repeatable.  Battery putting out 12.87 volts.until starter button is pushed.  Drops down to 2.5 volts while actuating button.  Once released, voltage rises to only 10.5 volts.

Checked the cells.  Most were a bit low.  Added water, hooked up to a full size charger at 6 amp charge for 12 hours, and got above results. 

I can't imagine that I had that trickle charger hooked up backwards (would it even charge?).  It would be a first.  But both cables are RED, and I'm not as young as I used to be ...

Nah.  That battery must have been on it's way out already.

 

 

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Yes, I cleaned the battery terminals, and the positive terminal on the SG, which might have been a little loose.  Still would not turn.  Then... today,  after a near 0 degree night, and in 16 degree weather, having been off the charger since Thursday,  I walked by the tractor, and, feeling a bit foolish, hit the starter button.  The daggon thing cranked right over.  Like nothing had ever happened. 

I think you are on to something with a bad connection though.  And the system is barely charging.  I have yet to go through the voltage regulator.

Thanks for your help!

 

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6 hours ago, dince said:

0 degree night, does that mean 32 degrees below freezing point?  Boy, that's too cold for me!

David

 

Yes, Fahrenheit.

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8 hours ago, dince said:

0 degree night, does that mean 32 degrees below freezing point?  Boy, that's too cold for me!

I think I'd be the 'non-starter' if it were that cold.

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Check the chassis ground and the voltage regulator connection to ground as well.  Heck, check every connection but a poor ground would explain your problems and the severe cold could have worked in your favor as the copper shrunk a bit pulling tighter on the cables getting a better connection.

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58 minutes ago, theniteowl said:

severe cold could have worked in your favor as the copper shrunk a bit pulling tighter on the cables getting a better connection.

Thanks Trent.  I wondered about that.  Will do as you suggest. Just wish I could get another break in the weather.  The dirt floor is bad enough, but when you add winter temperatures it really puts a damper on things.  One wants to enjoy one's time with his/her tractor. :-)

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1 hour ago, theniteowl said:

Check the chassis ground and the voltage regulator connection to ground as well.  Heck, check every connection but a poor ground would explain your problems and the severe cold could have worked in your favor as the copper shrunk a bit pulling tighter on the cables getting a better connection.

By gawd, I reckon temperatures of zero degrees F would tighten more than a copper cable connection!  Don't invite me to your countryside, until that danger has passed!

David

 

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8 hours ago, dince said:

By gawd, I reckon temperatures of zero degrees F would tighten more than a copper cable connection!  Don't invite me to your countryside, until that danger has passed!

David

 

Its warmer here in Missouri. 22° F. I only need a light jacket outside.

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1 hour ago, Missouri Blacksmith said:

Its warmer here in Missouri. 22° F. I only need a light jacket outside

Heck, at 22 degrees Fahrenheit we're breaking out the beer and sunscreen!

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4 hours ago, Vagabond said:

Heck, at 22 degrees Fahrenheit we're breaking out the beer and sunscreen!

Its never too cold for beer

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/13/2017 at 10:43 PM, theniteowl said:

Check the chassis ground and the voltage regulator connection to ground as well.  Heck, check every connection but a poor ground would explain your problems and the severe cold could have worked in your favor as the copper shrunk a bit pulling tighter on the cables getting a better connection.

So, having done all of the above, having removed, cleaned and re-tightened all of the connections, the on again, off again problem persists.  But here's the thing...  I sometimes revert to the simplest of diagnostic practices. Having charged the battery overnight again, the SG would not turn over in the morning.  To determine if the battery was the culprit, I simply jumped the tractor from my car.  It fired right up.  Remove the jumper cables?  Dead again.  In short, (no pun intended)  I THINK I need a new battery, because I really, really cleaned and tightened those battery cables super good twice now.  Maybe there is a bad connection inside the battery, eh?

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You can pull the battery and bring it to an auto parts store.  Most will do a load test on the battery for free.
Testing with a standard volt meter is not entirely reliable as a battery can charge up to a reasonable voltage but be unable to maintain that state for any length of time.  A load tester is used after the battery is fully charges and puts a strong load on the battery so that you can see how quickly the charge drops.
If you test the battery with a meter and the voltage is less than 9.6v then the battery needs replacing.  Readings higher than that do not necessarily indicate a good battery but lower readings definitely indicate a bad battery.

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  • 3 weeks later...

As suspected, the battery was toast.  Was only putting out 140 amps.  And not charging AT ALL.  And, as such, was reflecting '0' charge on the ammeter.  I hadn't thought of that.  Picked up a 420cca HUSKY at TSC today, and baby, what a difference.  Not only does the tractor turn over faster than ever, but the ammeter now shows a charge.  A 12 volt charge! (at high RPM).  So, that encourages me to get that VR cleaned up, and hopefully get a lower RPM 12 volt charge.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice.

Mark

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