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Bigkahuna427

What have I got here and questions?

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Bigkahuna427

New here not new to projects or forums.   Thank you for letting me join.  My mechanical background is that I am a retired auto tech and have restored a few cars.  I have all of my shop equipment in storage but will be setting up a new shop soon.   

So I was looking for something tough and old that I could use with several implements.   My thoughts originally was 1960s Cub Cadet, John Deere, Case 444 or Wheel Horse 520H.   Well, doesn't seem to be a lot of those around and or people horde them.   Maybe I will get lucky and find a Wheel Horse 520H like my buddy did for $500!   Any how, In my searches I found this cute as the dickens Simplicity 2010 with deck $100 but wasn't going to purchase it without the implements which would have been snowblower, tiller at minimum.  So, I found two more which came with a small pile of implements.   These were a 2110, 3310v with sickle bar mower, tiller, disc harrow, snow blower, Spare front axle. spare rear tires w rims.   The sickle bar and snow blower do not seem to have a whole lot of use I hope that doesn't mean they are useless.  I was told the implements should fit but weren't used with either of these tractors.   So I think I have most parts to put this all together but I know I am missing a few pieces.  The mule drive for the tiller seems incomplete on the 2110 or I only have the "sleeve hitch".   The disc harrow has some kind of adapter on the hitch but not sure if there is a provision to lift or is this like the old days on the farm where you use it then let it sit where she lies.   The mower has a cable that looks like a rig up to lift the mower.  

I haven't spent a lot of time on these yet but here is what I know so far:

2010 Serial 004937 Model 990395   Was told the PO had it running after replacing the carb w new and was going to restore it but then stopped.   So it came with a bucket of bolts and the engine, grill floating around.  I think the project stopped when he couldn't get the engine out without removing the front pulley.  He messed up the front grill I think trying to pull the grill with the pulley on.    So far I am missing the coupler for the  shaft to the bevel gear box.   Engine turns over, starter generator works starter switch does not seem to work, deck hubs turn.   I am going to concentrate on this one first.   Once running I can see if there are other problems.   

2110 Serial 2954 Model 990432   Had been sitting inside for years but then spent the last three years outside mostly covered.   PO had a new house but no garage.   No carb, engine turns over, starter generator works deck hubs turn.   This is the one that has the sleeve hitch.   I think this will be the second one I will try to get running.   

3310v ID# 65302960   This one I got with the 2110 seems complete but appears to have been sitting outside for a longer period.  The hood has more surface rust on top and all the pulleys have more rust.  Tires are so whether cracked you can touch the tube inside the tire.   This seems to have a lot of the same similar parts with some variations like a starter solenoid and the CVT speed control.   Engine turns over, starter generator has a bad connection with very rusty terminals, carb is there, two of the mower deck hubs are frozen.   Is the bevel gear box, axle tube, differential compatible with the other two?

At this point I am thinking the 3310v is the parts tractor.  I think it would just be too much work to bring it back and the other two tractors just have that old school look I am looking for.   I am thinking leave one with weights and chains on for snowplowing and rototilling and the other for mowing.  This is my first experience with these tractor so if I am making a mistep here let me know!   I am looking for guidance and suggestions from the collective experienced folks here.   

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Edited by Bigkahuna427
added photos

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720nut

iThey all look to be salvageable, I'ld say you've been biten by the bug

Welcome to the club, wealth of info here and a few nuts

Edited by 720nut

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tadams

Welcome to the club

Yes, the sickle bar even has the swath board.

If you do some searching on this sight there should be information and copies of the manuals or someone with more knowledge will be able to answer all your questions.

Tom

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B10Dave

First tractor you are showing in pics; the 2010 is known as a "round hood' and also as a FDT or foot dragger tractor. Second tractor the 2110 is the next progression or "flat hood" also a foot dragger. Third tractor shown in your pics is not a 3110 but is I believe from the pics a 3310V or RBT . A running board tractor with 3spd and variable drive. 3300's were first RBT's and came after the FDT's. If you go to the home page you can access the research section and look up lots of info on Simplicity and their Allis Chalmers twins tractors and implements and attachments. There are charts to say when the models were produced and what fits what etc. If you go to Simplicity's website and access the manuals section or support section you can enter your manufacturers numbers and get owner/user manuals in downloadable PDF format. Great bunch of stuff you have bought and welcome to the site. Pay the $10 for full membership to access the full site. It will be the best $10 you will ever spend....Dave

Edited by B10Dave
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Bigkahuna427

Sounds like I have a nice progression in the history of the xx10 tractors.  I am a bit concerned about do dads and bobbles needed to connect this stuff.   One of my photos has the rear lift on the 2110 what else do I need to attach the tiller?  Do I have part of the mule drive?   What kind of lift is needed on the snow blower?   

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B10Dave

The round top tiller you have is designed to work on the 2010 with a pulley/clutch drive like in my pics below. The rear lift on the 2110 will move to the 2010 with no modification. I don't see the tiller drive in your pile of stuff but it may be there and I just can't see it. If you don't have it they come up on E Pay sometimes and you can also use the want ads on this site to see if anyone has one for sale. Usually to use a tiller you should change the drive pulley to the optional 10in. size to slow the tractor down. Or find and install the hi/low option in place of the single speed drive pulley. As far as the blower stuff I can see the blower hitch in your pics. There should also be a lift rod and engagement rod with it. You also need a 4 1/2 or 5 in. pulley on the front of the engine crankshaft. I just removed the blower from my BigTen so no pics but maybe someone else with a blower still mounted could show you what is needed. Keep looking through the site and asking questions. Someone will always chime in to help...Dave 

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Edited by B10Dave
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Bigkahuna427

Yes looking to put in a good sized garden up here in Maine.   Probably be feeding the deer and woodchucks but hopefully an electric fence and a 22 rifle with take care of that.   Scrounging around for that mule drive and haven't found it yet at least at a reasonable price.  

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MikeES

Looks like the tiller has the extension tines added to it.  Not common with the open round top tillers as it will through dirt all over the place.  Plus a 10hp will have a hard time turning that when it is deep in loose soil.  The outside set of tines on both sides come off.to

I also see the 3310V has, at least the lever, for the front engine clutch.   The hitch on your snowthrower is made for the 2010 or 2110, but not the 3310.  But with a different hitch it will work on the 3310 also. 

The same for the sickle mower, it will work on all three tractors but you will need  a longer belt for the 3310, and maybe a little creative fab for the lift cable.

Could not see the hitch on the disc to know it you can just hook it up and go or not.

If you look at your mowing decks you will notice that the decks on the 2010/2110 have the height (back roller) adjuster are in closer to the center of the deck, and the 3310 to further out to the side to get clearance of the running boards, other than that the decks and parts are all interchangeable.

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jimmystractor

Welcome to the club. My guess is that you will have about 2-3 other Simplicity tractors in the next 6 months. The disease is bad. Everyone here enables one another....it is great.

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Bigkahuna427

I was able to spend a little time in the garage yesterday.   I really want to get all three engines running to see what I have for power plants.   My focus was the 2112 flat hood foot dragger, (if I have that lingo right).   I cranked it for a while and could hear some noise from what seemed to be the bevel gear box.  The drive belt off the starter was pretty shredded and what little cranking I was able to get out of it pretty much did it in.  Trying to be resourceful and not wanting to make a trip to town I found the tranny drive belt off the 2012 pretty close maybe an inch long.   Using that I was able to get some good cranking.   However my next discovery was that the coupler shaft turned freely with no movement on the output of the BGB so I left the coupler disconnected.   

Checked compression and not that good at 50 PSI.   Added oil and was not better.   Cranked the engine 15 seconds at a time several times and compression got up to 100 PSI.   So, I am hoping that loose carbon and or a little surface rust on the valves will wear in once it gets running.  Next no spark.   Took one of my girlfriends emery boards and filed the points a bit then cleaned the contacts.  Have spark but very weak and yellow.   Points and condenser are on the list.  

The 2112 did not come with a carb so I went to the 3310V and took that carb off.   I am going to need that to get the 3310V engine running anyhow.   Pulled the carb apart and found lots of corrosion which is a big surprise, haha!   Submerged everything in a bucket of gas overnight.   The float as bad as it looked had no gas inside in other words doesn't leak.  I was able to clean it up pretty good and I think I have a good working carb.  I am missing a plug on the intake of the carb.   Could be a welch plug but my guess is this was a tin plug.   So, I need to find that plug and a carb kit is on the list.   

So once the 2112 engine runs my next concern is the bevel gear box.  The 3310v seems to have a different output shaft with the variable drive system.  Of course I was hoping to use that for the bevel gear box.  So, the 2112 has a sort of clutch pulley which I assume is to help prevent creep while the 3310v has the larger much fatter pulley held on with a nut.   Does anyone have any experience with the difference between these two BGBs?   Is it possible to maybe use the hub center and weld on a pulley?   What is the consensus on the variable drive good or bad?

Another question or concern I have is the transmission drive pulley for the 2012 and the 2112.   The 2012 has about a half turn off free play when turning back and forth while the 2112 has one full turn.   Where is the most likely place for all this play and is it normal or common?   

Thank you very much I really appreciate all the input as I get familiar with these things! 

Edited by Bigkahuna427

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Allis312

Just a thought, but that BGB you have that is not turning could be because the woodruff key has fallen out of the driven gear. Happened to my 312. If that is the problem then a new key should fix it if the bearings and everything else is still ok. I would at least check out the old box before swapping/chopping/welding stuff.

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Bigkahuna427

I really appreciate all the help here.   Can somebody suggest maybe what is happening with all the gear backlash or free play with the drive pulley?   One tractor I can turn the drive pulley on the transmission one turn and the other a 1/2 turn.

 

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MikeES

When you turn the drive pulley on the BGB make sure the input shaft is not turning.   If you have that much play 1 rotation and 1/2 rotation, tells me both BGB will need to be opened up and find the problem.   That much play is more backlash than the shims will take up.   It could be really worn gears or something loose, broken, or bad input shaft bearing.

The Variable BGB on the 3310V has a different cross shaft and will have a large input shaft compared to the 2000 series tractors.  The only thing you can do to use that BGB on a straight 3-speed transaxle is to remove the variable pulley and install a straight v-pulley (about 4" dia).  There is a keyway under the V pulley.

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Bigkahuna427
15 minutes ago, MikeES said:

When you turn the drive pulley on the BGB make sure the input shaft is not turning.   If you have that much play 1 rotation and 1/2 rotation, tells me both BGB will need to be opened up and find the problem.   That much play is more backlash than the shims will take up.   It could be really worn gears or something loose, broken, or bad input shaft bearing.

The Variable BGB on the 3310V has a different cross shaft and will have a large input shaft compared to the 2000 series tractors.  The only thing you can do to use that BGB on a straight 3-speed transaxle is to remove the variable pulley and install a straight v-pulley (about 4" dia).  There is a keyway under the V pulley.

Mike the pulley I am talking about is on the right rear of the tractor.   The transmission drive pulley under the seat.   That is the one that is 1/2 turn on one tractor and one full turn on the other tractor until the axle starts to move.   Sorry probably did not explain that well.   

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MikeES

So you mean the driven pulley on the transaxle?   What gear is the transmission it?  First gear will seem like the pulley is going a long time until the axle turns.   What does 3rd gear look like?

In any event a full turn is showing lots of lash in probably several gears, 1/2 turn...so  so.

Bottom line is that there is really no adjustments in the transaxle to fix it.  If you open it up you may be able to put a shim in here or there, but I have never seen one with any shims behind the gears.

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Bigkahuna427

Well making some progress on the 2110. Put a kit into the carb and then replaced points and condenser.   I have not been able to get good spark (barely there, weak and yellow) so I have not been able to listen to the engine.   Pulled the engine out today and got the cover off and found a rodent nest with lots of urine in there.  The magneto was rusted pretty bad and looked to have gotten very hot with melted plastic.  So, I have one of those coming.   I degreased the engine and tractor and made sure all of the cooling fins were clear using at times a hacksaw blade to go between the fins.

Next challenge is the BGB.   If tear into this I will have a good portion of the tractor apart (makes me consider getting into cosmetics).   I do not think I can save this BGB.  The BGB on the 3310v looks closer than I thought as I did not realize that the 2110 has a large nut on the threaded output shaft.    Can anyone tell me if the 3310v BGB will fit and or what modifications need to happen?   I hate to have two tractors in pieces and find out the BGB from the 3310v will not go.

Also, anyone have a mule drive for the tiller they wish to sell?

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Edited by Bigkahuna427

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MikeES

The output shaft on the 3310V is different than the 2110.  The shaft is sized for the variable pulley vs. the straight v pulley on the 2110.   You can take off the variable pulley, and  with a little mechanical ingenuity you can make a regular v pulley work, but not the one from the 2110. I e converted a variable to a straight 3-speed using stamped steel v pulleys and weld on hubs.

That mag is a mess!  Mice can do a ton of damage.

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Bigkahuna427

Sounds like you weren't able to source a pulley that would work as a bolt on.  What was your source for parts you used?    I take it that maybe you do not find the variable useful or is it troublesome?

Edited by Bigkahuna427

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Bigkahuna427

The 2110 after replacing the magneto coil had great spark.   Trying to start it though the only thing I could get it to do is pop through the carb.  Might have some carbon on the valve or a sticking valve.   So, for now I have decided to set it aside as with a bad BGB I wasn't going to get this going right off and the parts list is mounting fast.   

So, I wanted to assess the engine on the 3310v and after putting the rebuilt carb on it, flushing the tank, new line and filter and filing the points it fired right up.   It has tires that are so weather cracked that you can stick your hand through the sidewall yet I was still able to drive it around the garage which was promising.   So, I put some extra wheels I had on it and drove it around a bit.   I basically have one wheel drive on the left side.   I jack up the right side and the wheel just spins nothing else.   I think I need to get into the differential but am a bit confused as to how the right side wheel is working at all?

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