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KT17 rebuild


a_sannine

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A while back I found this engine toward the end of the garage probably been  sitting there for 15 years were I totally forget I have it , so I was excited to see it , long story short I fired it , it has very little smoke , so I decided to rebuild it as I have an OEM kit ,  every thing looks great so far no wear to bore nor pistons .

 

IMG_20170613_201744.jpg

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I am guessing that it is a series II because of the long fill neck on the oil fill.

I have done s few M20s and KT17s and have always found little to no wear in the cylinders.  It seems that Kohler got the these engines right with the sacrificial wear part being the rings. 

Other issues with these engines, but I feel still more durable than most of the new V-twins.

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Nice. I'd like to tackle one of these KT rebuilds one day but it will have to wait until I have more space to work on it.

 

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1 hour ago, Chris727 said:

Nice. I'd like to tackle one of these KT rebuilds one day but it will have to wait until I have more space to work on it.

 

Start saving your money for parts (If you can find them) as they seem to run on the high side compared to Briggs stuff.

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12 hours ago, fishnwiz said:

Start saving your money for parts (If you can find them) as they seem to run on the high side compared to Briggs stuff.

Yeah, when I priced doing one maybe ten years ago it was going to be around a grand, with my free labor. Have a different one I'm hoping will need only rings.

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This engine got me down on my knees , I can't figure out what's wrong with it , I rebuilt a lot of engines in my life but never came across such a problem , after putting it back together every thing went great it won't fire , it feels like it is gonna fire but wont .

What I did to it

New OEM rings.

Hone job .

valve job  (lapping and adjusting ).

New head gaskets .

New points ,condenser ,spark plugs  gapped right ( points 20 spark 25)

Carb rebuilt with oem kit .

Good spark , good compression , fresh oil and gas .

I timed it perfect per manuals , points start breaking at S and 20 gap at T .

what I am missing?

 It is driving me nuts .

I even switched all the above ( carb , coil, points, condenser ) from my good running Allis 917 , same thing .sm00

Edited by a_sannine
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4 minutes ago, ShaunE said:

Fuel pump?

It's $100 for new.  I'd check that next.  I've had to replaced two.

No as I am feeding carb directly from a tank , gravity feed , its not firing with starting fluid  as well

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5 minutes ago, GregB said:

Does the carb have a fuel shut-off solenoid on the side?

 

 

No shut-off

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Have you got one of those induction lights to check for spark when plugs are installed?  Engine only needs three things to fire - fuel, compression, and properly timed spark.  You've got fuel, you've got compression, so must be an issue with the ignition even though it appears you have good spark?  Could it be bad plug wires or some kind of grounding issue?

Or could there be an issue with the carb where you're flooding out (needle stuck open)?  The 917 could donate that too :-)

Edited by Snojetter
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59 minutes ago, Snojetter said:

Have you got one of those induction lights to check for spark when plugs are installed?  Engine only needs three things to fire - fuel, compression, and properly timed spark.  You've got fuel, you've got compression, so must be an issue with the ignition even though it appears you have good spark?  Could it be bad plug wires or some kind of grounding issue?

Or could there be an issue with the carb where you're flooding out (needle stuck open)?  The 917 could donate that too :-)

I have the spark checker , strong spark , carb freshly rebuilt , Actually got three that I tried , I am puzzled .

I checked ignition off as I moved all parts from my good running 917 .

Good solid 12 volt to coil , what is the problem I can figure it out yet .

 

Edited by a_sannine
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49 minutes ago, Snojetter said:

Shot in the dark...is it possible the plug wires are reversed?

I don't think it makes a difference as both plugs fire at the same time.  On spark is "wasted" on the exhaust stroke.  To me it has to be a spark timing issue?????

 

Ken

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1 hour ago, Kenh said:

I don't think it makes a difference as both plugs fire at the same time.  On spark is "wasted" on the exhaust stroke.  To me it has to be a spark timing issue?????

 

Ken

Interesting.  I did not know that.

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I would go back over and check piston, valves, points plunger movement to make sure everything is in time.  Possible that camshaft is out of time.

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10 hours ago, Snojetter said:

Shot in the dark...is it possible the plug wires are reversed?

No as I used the coil from my 917 that is running and the coil from this engine on the 917 worked .

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9 hours ago, Kenh said:

I don't think it makes a difference as both plugs fire at the same time.  On spark is "wasted" on the exhaust stroke.  To me it has to be a spark timing issue?????

 

Ken

That's what I thought at one point , timing off , but no , timing is set per manual at S the points start breaking at T points at 0.20 sharp .

Never seen some thing like this before , getting interesting to find the issue .

 

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7 hours ago, MikeES said:

I would go back over and check piston, valves, points plunger movement to make sure everything is in time.  Possible that camshaft is out of time.

If cam shaft out of time isn't it suppose to mess the whole timing thing? that's not the case with this engine , S at flywheel when lined with roll mark on jug points starts to open and when at T it is fully open at 0.20 , so that tells me timing correct .

I am gonna pull heads off and see if a valve stuck open or something , one of the last thing I can think of before I take a step back and that engine goes back to where it sat for the past 15 years or so .

 

Edited by a_sannine
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