Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
jrmorrill

hard starting 243431 briggs

Recommended Posts

jrmorrill

I'm trying to figure out why my old 243431 takes LOTS of cranking to start. Once started it runs just fine at high speed and idle. No smoking or stumbling at all.

I've pulled and cleaned the carb. The engine uses the NOVA ignition module and spark seems strong right from the first crank.

Playing with throttle and choke I can eventually get the engine to start. During the cranking sometimes I'll get a minor pop, but not enough to get the engine spinning.

Any recommendations where to look? Something to test?

.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishnwiz

1st off be sure that when you put the choke on that it is closing all the way.

Did you make sure that the little hole in the fuel mixture screw that holds the bowl on the carb was clean? That small hole may be plugged.

Change your spark plug and recheck the gap setting.

Also may be partial blockage of fuel line at the tank or plugged in line fuel filter if you have one. Also vent hole in fuel cap could be plugged.

Also, carb could be flooded when you 1st start it if needle valve is not closing. Do you see fuel leaking at carb?

Also could be sediment or water in your fuel...double check to see the bowl is clean.

Also may try opening fuel valve 1/8 + turn open.

Also be sure your govenor is at the proper setting....you can Google gov setting on YouTube and it will show you correct process for setting it up the correct way.

Good luck

 

Edited by fishnwiz
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
a_sannine

If all checked good it might be ur  NOVA ll ignition module. had a 16hp Briggs that drove  me nuts , hard to start and when start had a slight popping sound doesn't run smooth  , I go back to points with new coil , problem solved .

Edited by a_sannine
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
theniteowl

Hit the carb with a shot of starting fluid before/during the first crank when cold  if it first right up then you know your spark is good.
If it still hesitates then you may have a loose connection in the ignition or possibly it is grounding out.  When you crank for a while pulling current across the wires and connections they heat up, change shape a bit and either make a better or worse connection in many cases.  So cranking for a while could lead to eventually making the connection you need or breaking loose the short grounding out the ignition.  It's just a possibility though.  Sounds more like what fishnwiz said about fuel flow.  When the engine is running it has more power to suck the fuel through than when cranking so any partial blockage could be a problem.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • SmilinSam
    • Bill725
    • Bird76Mojo
    • Brettw
  • Today's Birthdays

    No users celebrating today
  • Recent Status Updates

    • jbrooks

      jbrooks  »  Talntedmrgreen

      Josh
       
      folowing  this from a link at the downloads.  I just rescued an AC 920 with the lambodini diesel. I can' t download  yet .  Where did you find the PDF copy you posted. . I would like to figure out how to adjust the injection pump. 
      I assume it's a bosche, correct
      · 0 replies
    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×