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dhoadley

Got One!

32 posts in this topic

I've been keeping an eye out for a large frame hydro, a distinct void my herd.  I have 2 1/2 Broadmoors, a A/C 414S, & a Simp 4108 (the only working mower in the bunch). Watching a_sannine (he's only an hour from me) vacuum up so many deals left me a little discouraged that I would ever find a good deal. Saw one on a guy's lawn with a sign while working this week and went and purchased it today. An A/C 917H with a Series II and Hydro lift, with a seized deck that appears solid for $400. Engine runs without smoke and drives well. Needs a battery and the deck dealt with. Pictures to follow. WOOHOO! dOd

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I was hoping a large frame would fit in my tiny truck. I had about 3" total front & back space.

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The truck did fine, but the tailgate cable - not so much. Luckily the other side held and all is well. I'll go get 2 new ones. They're both 19 years old.

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I think I need a bar of some kind for my 1-point rear lift.

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General shots.

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The deck was frozen.

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I wonder why.

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There's some seriously good compost in the center "well".

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The idler pulley and arm are in surprisingly good condition and both move freely. (once I got all the stuff cleaned out) The 2 outer spindles were frozen, but once I broke them loose they spun well by hand with no side-to-side movement. The center one is shot.

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I think the deck gave up several years ago, because the belt was "stuck" to the pulleys.

The other issue is the starter/battery. The PO said it needed a battery and we could jump it from a car. We did but the bendix gear didn't want to engage the flywheel. I need to remove and clean the starter and that may fix my "battery" problem. Just one question; where's the starter and how do I get it out? :$ Thanx, Dave

P.S. Came with an operator's manual. dOd

 

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Edited by dhoadley
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Huh , how come I didn't see it ?sm06

lol just kidding .

Beautiful haul Dave , u will love it .

If ur sitting on tractor it is to the left side on the bottom of the engine ,

How to get to it is not bad .

To remover it out of engine u have to unbolt engine mounts only ( 4 bolts)  don't disconnect drive shaft or any thing else . lift engine up enough to give u access to remove it .

If I were u I will take left spark plug out and loosen left engine cover by taking small bolts out , that gives u access to starter , most of time they are dirty and a good compressed air and little WD40 does it .

Any thing u need let me know

OMG change that tranny filter asap , probable that filter over 15 years old .

PS: 1-point rear lift has a cable /pulley system

Edited by a_sannine

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Thanx, Moussa. I'll get at that starter tomorrow.

Also, I was able to push the tractor, not running, forward with the little release valve depressed, but not backwards. Any ideas?

Edited by dhoadley

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I've done a quick search and didn't really find anything on spindle bearing replacement. Where do I get bearings, what bearings do I need, how do I get them out and then back in? Are getting these a better way to go?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201987131947?ul_noapp=true

So many questions... :$ Thanx, Dave

Edited by dhoadley

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11 hours ago, dhoadley said:

 

Also, I was able to push the tractor, not running, forward with the little release valve depressed, but not backwards. Any ideas?

Make sure they are depressed all the way in , if they are  check ur emergence brake .

changing the spindles bearings is straight forward , there is a detail write up about it here if not mistaken.

 

Edited by a_sannine

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Great deal on that tractor!  And that seat looks perfect - that's a rarity (protect that treasure).  

Lift up the seat pan.  You might find the cable for the hitch just laying there...

Edited by Snojetter
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Hello, I have repaired 2 mower decks . It would be a good idea to clean your deck, and look for rust or fatigue  cracks   before you order parts  On one of my repair job I bought new bearing housing tops http://www.ebay.com/itm/1655729ASM-Briggs-Stratton-Mower-HOUSING-ARBOR-TOP-B/172543569256?_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Da26add0c343348b5ba7ee7b389de5222%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D262817852339

This helped allot ,  and shipping is combined  so total price for 3  is like $35 .

Thanks Ken in Mi

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Congrats on the find.  I think you'll like the large frames.

1 hour ago, dhoadley said:

Make sure they are depressed all the way in ...

"THEY"? I only saw one.

There is "one" tab to depress, but it pushes down 2 pins in the center of the valves.  The "one" release tab might not be fully depressing both pins all the way down. 

As to repairing/refurbishing the newer style arbors, here's the link to AC_B-1Novice's post about the task:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/37879-spindle-repair-final-pictures-1690709-deck/

It has a lot of discussion about the differences in these types of arbors as they were improved over the years.

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14 hours ago, a_sannine said:

To remover it out of engine u have to unbolt engine mounts only ( 4 bolts)  don't disconnect drive shaft or any thing else . lift engine up enough to give u access to remove it .

If I were u I will take left spark plug out and loosen left engine cover by taking small bolts out , that gives u access to starter , most of time they are dirty and a good compressed air and little WD40 does it .

 

When you check out the starter as described above, if you can get all the tin off with the engine lifted, I'd do it and make sure all the fins are clean. 

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5 hours ago, dhoadley said:

Are getting these a better way to go?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201987131947?ul_noapp=true

So many questions... :$ Thanx, Dave

That's not a bad deal for "spare" spindle parts (but the shipping cost is high). 

But the double driven pulley is different for a 48" deck, so you wouldn't be able to use that one directly.  Also note the seller said "A bolt snapped off in one of the spindles.", a common problem getting neglected arbors apart (as well as getting the drive pulley off the splined shaft). 

Either way, you should refurbish whatever arbors you install.

 

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Dug into the starter. Raised the engine and removed the tin. The plastic dust cap was broken and laying in the bottom. Was quite clean in there, so I blew it out with compressed air and applied WD40 liberally. I taped the cap back together and put it back in place, reassembled and ... no love. So I jumped the battery from my truck and left it for a couple of minutes and... perfect start. So my battery problem really is a battery problem. I took it out and have it charge on a battery tender. It'll either take a charge or it won't. On to the spindles. I ordered bearings and watched Zippo's video tutorial that was linked above. Outstanding, as always. Gives me confidence.

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My first big frame I bought years ago (around 20 years )  an Allis 919 that was dead ,  I was into B10s big time , I was so nervous as I knew nothing about it , with the help of no one but my self  back then I figured out my way , I fell in love with this line of tractors , got rid of all my B10s and started buying nothing but those big boys .

your gonna love that beast

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On 7/16/2017 at 8:16 AM, Snojetter said:

Lift up the seat pan.  You might find the cable for the hitch just laying there...

Would the cable that's used for the deck also be used for the back?

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1 hour ago, dhoadley said:

Would the cable that's used for the deck also be used for the back?

no should be separate cable and connects to the left side of rock shaft if memory serves me right.

see if I can find a couple pictures later

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1 hour ago, dhoadley said:

Would the cable that's used for the deck also be used for the back?

Negative.  

Two separate cables mounted to different spots on the rock-shaft.

Look underneath & see if it has the pulley for the rear cable mounted between two steel tabs like what the mower deck cable goes through.  If it does, then the original one probably broke.  Which would mean you only need the cable.

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