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lube for honing

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I think thread cutting oil would be way too thick. Needs to be thin like the others said. I use kerosene in a squirt bottle.

Edited by jlasater

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Fuel oil, or I have heard of guys mixing automatic transmission fluid and kerosene.  In a pinch, I think wd40 would be ok too.  Thin is the key, it needs to flush the grit out of the stones so they will continue to cut, otherwise the stones will glaze.  It also will flush the grit from the porosity of cast iron too.



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After honing wash the cylinders on good hot soapy water.  After the hot water/soap wash WD40 to displace the water then wipe down with light oil.  Wipe the oil out with a white cloth until no more dark gunk come out on the cloth.   

After the first start run the engine until the oil reaches operating temp then drain the oil and change the filter if it has one.  The engine itself is the best washing machine there is!!  Now go mow or at least work the engine enough to put a load on it.  A load is necessary to seat the rings.  The ring seating time is relatively short contrary to popular opinion.  I've used this break in procedure since about 1975 when I decided I wanted to be an auto mechanic.  That didn't work out but I've used the knowledge ever since and built on it as a small engine tech.


This article is slightly embellished to make it more dramatic but all the information is there.  I've never had an engine fail with this procedure.



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Yes, do not break in with synthetic oil, it works too well and does not let the rings seat, at least not for a long time.  There is another post here that talks about break in oil, read the comments there for information.



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