Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

rear electric lift on 7016h


MATTHEW

Recommended Posts

Steve_Wyrick
Matthew, I made a rod for my gannon also. I made mine 8 inches long. I drilled two holes in the back so if the back hole was to close I could move the arms in closer for leverage. I have no problem lifting it up with my electric lift. Hope this helps. Stevel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

MY ELECTRIC LIFT MOTOR RATCHETS BADLY WHEN I TRY AND LIFT MY REAR GANNON WITH IT. I TOOK IT APART AND THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT THE SLIP CLUTCH ON THE SCREW GEAR IS JUST SLIPPING PROPERLY. IS THERE A CURE TO MAKE THE CLUTCH LIFT MORE WEIGHT WITHOUT SLIPPING? HAS ANYONE WELDED THEIR SLIP CLUTCH TO KEEP IT FROM SLIPPING.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The electric lift can handle a tiller (150-200 lbs). The factory approved Gannon weighs 140 lbs., so it should be okay to lift. How much does your Gannon weigh? Do you have a leverage problem? What's the voltage at the lift? Here's the factory set up. http://www.simpletractors.com/images/b_attachments_images/earthcavator.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

THAT IS THE GANNON I HAVE AND IT WILL NOT LIFT IT. THE LIFT ROD WHERE THE GANNON ATTACHES APPEARS TO BE ABOUT THREE INCHES LONGER THAN THIS PICTURE. WHICH I THINK WOULD GIVE IT MORE LEVERAGE? I'M NOT REALLY SURE.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not weld the clutch. When you reach the extremes either up or down that clutch is supposed to slip or ratchet. Check the clutch disks themselves. In the past I've had the discs crack and I had them repaired and resurfaced or checked for flatness. Now of course you can probably just buy the parts. MadManX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That 3" may be the problem. The longer the rod the higher the lift, but the less lifting capacity. Try playing around with a chain from the rod to the Gannon in different positions.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a solution -- sell me the Gannon, and you won't burn up your electric lift.... Seriously, if you want to sell it, let me know! ;<) Kent
Link to comment
Share on other sites

THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT COMMENTS. THIS IS WHY I AM INVOLVED IN THIS CLUB. HAS ANYONE EVER TAKEN THEIR ELECTRIC LIFT OFF AND REPLACED IT WITH A HYDRAULIC RAM. IF I DO THIS CAN I USE THE HYDRO TO POWER IT?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt, I'd almost bet that 3 inches is whats killing you. When I made a hitch for my B-112 to attach a 5 foot landscaping rake I thought the longer the lift rod the better, not so. The angle of lift to the pivot point on the hitch seems to be a controlling factor, if your too long your pulling backwards on the hinge point instead of lifting. With a manual lift I could feel the difference as I moved the chain up or down the 2 foot tire iron I use for a lift rod. try moving in closer to the tractor, if you weld up your clutch I'm guessin you'll be looking for a new lift motor soon..MPH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...