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mbinwi

7016H (1690006) terminal board.

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mbinwi

Last fall, a guy stopped by and said he sees different tractors in my yard each day, on his way to and from work, so he wanted to know If I would take his 7016H, complete with snow blower and 42" mower deck.  A few days later he brings the tractor, and attachments to me. 

It hasn't run in 2 years, and he said it had no spark, and he also mentioned a belt came off the snow blower and tore up some wiring.  The only wiring I could see in the way of the front PTO is the head lights.  He said he fixed the wiring, and after that, it had no spark.

  I finally had a chance the last couple of days to start messing with it.  I have a new ignition switch on the way, so in the mean time, I started cleaning connections, adjusting the points, etc.

The terminal board confuses me (which doesn't take much :S)  as the wiring diagrams show the board, but doesn't show what wires come and go from the board.

Now at some time in it's life,  this has been changed over to a 12v coil ignition, using an automotive coil.  I've done this on my 700, but not sure if it's the exact same wiring procedure for the 7016 as it is on the 700.

If any of you guys can give me a little insight, it would be much appreciated.

Mike.

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a_sannine

 You mean by terminal board the small board on the right hand side (if sitting on tractor) ?

Got the same tractor I can share few pic if needed .

For the 12 volt coil  only thing needed a 12v wire to coil , usually doesn't require modification with wire harness.

Edited by a_sannine

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mbinwi

Thanks for the reply.

It is on the right side, under the dash, just above the voltage regulator.  The wiring diagram shows it, but doesn't show what wires come to, and from the board.

I just want to track down all the wiring and make sure everything is in it's place.

Mike.

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Gary

The only wiring routed to the the board, is a hot wire to power the board.  The rest of the wiring comes from the board to an accessory, hour meter, etc.

I replaced the terminal board in my 917H, with a 6 fuse, weather resistant box, so I can have individual fuses to each electrical item (headlights, hour meter, accessories, etc).  Just a personal preference.

Edited by Gary
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PhanDad

Here's some pics of my 7016H (MFG # 1690342, Briggs with ring gear starter, no dash voltage regulator) dash area.  Maybe it'll help with wiring:

IMG_9173.thumb.JPG.91a9a2e9d353164e49dea93346f34570.JPG

 

IMG_9174.thumb.JPG.1eb78649c43a6d0b13f804606fec8ffc.JPG

IMG_9175.thumb.JPG.0afe7300aa86df68c2252940752a3ca6.JPG

IMG_9177.thumb.JPG.65328f3d28021d3dcd3ae29162618f25.JPG

My 7016H has the dual circuit charging system so the light switch is fed directly from the stator.  I would think if your 7016H has a voltage regulator on the dash and you have lights, they would be fed from the circuit board.

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mbinwi

Thanks, the pictures help.  On mine, the white wire from the ignition switch goes to the board, (along with a black wire, just like yours) and a black wire goes from the board to the plus side of the automobile type coil, which I think was added later on.   A wire goes from the neg. side of the coil, to the points.

I guess I'll see what the new ignition switch looks like, and go from there.

Mike.

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mbinwi

Well, I dunno, the new switch didn't do any good, because it's configured different that the one that was on there, so I cleaned up the old switch and put it back on.  The new switch was not engaging the starter.

So with the old switch in, it turns over fine, power going to the coil, power going to the points, no spark.  I pulled the plug wire out of the coil, and put my tester in the hole where the plug wire goes, cranked over the motor, and nothing.

Back to where I started.  What I have not done, is change the points and condenser.  Both looked good, so I cleaned them, and reset the points gap to .020.

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CarlH

Sounds like the secondary side of the coil is bad or open.  Check continuity from the plug lead terminal to the coil case.

Edited by CarlH
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mbinwi

Thanks Carl, it's a brand new coil, right out of the box.  Tester shows power to the connector on the plus side, which comes from the ignition switch, via the terminal board, and there is power on the minus connector, that leads to the points.

Not sure if I understand what you are saying.  I should check continuity from the plug wire connector to the coil case?  I'm not getting it.  This is an automotive type coil that is mounted on the side of the tractor, just behind the carb and air cleaner.  It's the first thing I replaced.

Mike.

 

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CarlH

Mike,

 

An automotive coil is really a transformer with 2 windings.  You have checked the primary winding, at least partially, by having + 12 VDC at both the + and - terminals.  You probably should check the resistance ( ~ 3 - 6 ohms IIRC) also.  The secondary winding for the transformer is connected to the spark plug lead terminal and the case of the coil.  It should not be a short or open either.  Sometimes new parts are NFG. :( 

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mbinwi

Thanks Carl, and everyone.  The coil checked out good.  I went back and made sure the points were perfectly clean, and gapped at .020.  I reconnected everything, and while holding on to the spark tester I have, making sure I had a good connection, I got a good jolt!  Connected the plug wire on the plug, and away it went.  It runs great.  I took it a for test spin around the yard.  Hydro works great, too.  Now I'll change the oil and filter on the hydro.

While looking at old post on here, from May of 2007, I found a great wiring diagram from a member named UCD, on the coil conversion.  Just to double check and make sure my wiring was right.

Thanks guys!

Mike.

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BLT

You need an ignition switch from a 716 Kohler powered unit so you have a hot wire supply your coil 12V power. Your switch might be right but the connector needs to be re pinned.

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MikeES
27 minutes ago, BLT said:

You need an ignition switch from a 716 Kohler powered unit so you have a hot wire supply your coil 12V power. Your switch might be right but the connector needs to be re pinned.

Or feed the ignition coil from the terminal block/junction block, which is hot when the switch is on.

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mbinwi

Right now, the coil is powered through the terminal board.  I cleaned up the old switch, and it works fine.  I thought about repining the new switch, but as long as the old switch works, I'm good.

I might see if I can take the new switch back,  I bought it at Olson's, but usually electronic/electrical parts are "non-refundable".

Mike.

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