WARNING

[StinKy 0]

Yeah, Marty. My 3210-V had front axle pin worn about 1/4" thru. New bolt and a bushing fixed it. Dick

[MPH 12]

To buyers of used Power Max tractors, if your steering is really loose, watch what your axle does when you try to steer. If it moves front to back check the center mounting bolts, my rear,main, one had about a 1/4inch grove worn in the bolt and the front one had the frame wallowed out to a 7/8in hole. Put in new #8 bolts and made a bushing to fill the hole in the frame. Think it be good maintence practice to check these two and make sure they are tight and that the greese serk on the main one gets used..MPH

[Guest]

i hade a landlord do the same

[jackcobb 4]

I have a Landlord that did the same too, also the pivot bolt would keep loosening up and cause more slop and wear. I have just had it down to bare frame and am putting it back together now. Here is the fix I came up with. I overbored the sloppy frame hole to tightly fit a short(about 3") length of pipe in. The pipe ID matches my new pivot bolt diameter which I upped from a 1/2" to a 3/4" bolt. I had to hone the pipe a little with emery wound around a drill bit to get a slip fit. The pipe is welded to the frame where it passes through the enlarged hole and a nut is welded to the back end of the pipe for the bolt to thread into. The nut is welded to the frame(I had to add a spacer to keep the pipe aligned properly) to hold the back end of the bolt from moving. Now even if the bolt loosens a little it will not move up and down, wearing out the frame hole or pivot bolt. I will use a castle nut for a jam nut and pin it once everything is set. THAT should keep it from going anywhere...... I will have the front axle beam bored out to 1 1/4" to fit my new spacer. I decided to go with a bigger spacer rather than bore the old spacer to fit the new pivot bolt, but either would work. I just happened to have the bigger spacer available. I added stainless washers on either side of the new spacer as shims to match spacer thickness to axle beam thickness. I am also going to add bronze bearing washers on either side of the axle beam. The pipe sticks out of the frame about 1/32" to hold the inner bearing washer in place during assembly and to hold some grease. If it doesn't work out I can easily grind the excess off. As it will be assembled, the parts go like this: bolt, large(thick) flat washer, bronze bearing washer, SS washer-spacer-SS washer fitted into axle beam, bronze bearing washer, pipe(frame), welded nut, castle jam nut, cotter pin. I hope this idea helps. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. I have a few pics I took while doing this, I'll try to get them posted soon.

[MPH 12]

Might drill a hole for a greese serk into the new spacer. sound like you got it figured pretty well..MPH

[thedaddycat 8]

Yeah, I thought about putting one in the pipe wall- aimed the same way as the one for the rear bushing. Why make proper lubrication any harder than necessary? I figured the welded nut would force the grease forward and out around the bearing washers and spacer. But then I decided that would probably be overkill......lol. Actually, I'm not all that great a welder and blew a hole in the pipe wall, hence no sealed chamber to force the grease out of. Oh well, guess the old fashioned way will have to do, schmeeeeerrr idt goodt vit da grrreeezzzz as my Besta Fa (Danish for grandfather) used to say. I also double checked, it's a 5/8" bolt I upsized to, not a 3/4".