Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

bnolte

This followed me home today

Recommended Posts

bnolte

I drove down to Chesapeake Beach MD today and came home with this mid-60s Landlord 101. Its going to need a bit of work, but it has a good BGB, and the steering is tight. Even still has the rubber pads on the footrest, and has a 36 inch mowing deck. Got it into the garage, and hit all the bolts with PB Blaster, and changed the oil. One disturbing thing was that there was little oil in the engine. Praying someone didn't blow it up, but it seems to have  compression and there is no backlash I can feel when I turn it over. Hoping for the best. I made a halfhearted attempt to start it with the rope pulley on the BGB without the battery, and some fresh gas after cleaning the tank. No easy start today, I will have to dig in a bit more in the coming days and weeks. 

59f76093eef78_Landlord101.jpg.thumb.jpg.67ca9bbd556b4de5694e88606a1ee206.jpg

20171030_133517_resized.thumb.jpg.e73afcf895851237cf821ff547ff6725.jpg

20171030_162550_resized.thumb.jpg.a8003da13391c1e84b95082875c9c8bc.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

I have the carb as my next item of business. After cleaning the tank and reconnecting the lines, gas overflowed and started dripping out. Looks like either a bad float or seat. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MARK (LI)

I know of a guy in Maryland that may be able to help you if you need a carb...possibly some other parts too...I needed a carb for a 14HP Vanguard...over 225 bucks ...or 130 for rebuild kit...this guy cleaned it in an ultrasonic cleaner and rebuilt it for 60 bucks...fast too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

Gearing up to take on the carb. Been cleaning up the workbench and sorting my stashes of unsorted nuts and bolts into organized storage in plastic bins or boxes with lots of compartments. Junk just keeps accumulating on the bench, it won't put itself away no matter hard I will it too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte
On 10/31/2017 at 2:26 PM, tadams said:

Yes, Nice find that might be one that a little elbow grease and polish and be a eye catcher.

Tom

Its going to need a little more than polish, a lot of surface rust and pitting.  It's probably too late to paint this fall, my pole building is unheated except of a small kerosene heater. Assuming everything can be made to work fairly easily, I will concentrate on getting the mechanicals in shape and repaint and decal it next spring. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
720nut
10 hours ago, bnolte said:

Gearing up to take on the carb. Been cleaning up the workbench and sorting my stashes of unsorted nuts and bolts into organized storage in plastic bins or boxes with lots of compartments. Junk just keeps accumulating on the bench, it won't put itself away no matter hard I will it too!

I have same problem if you find a cure be sure to let us know 666

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ZippoVarga
On 10/30/2017 at 8:26 PM, bnolte said:

I have the carb as my next item of business. After cleaning the tank and reconnecting the lines, gas overflowed and started dripping out. Looks like either a bad float or seat. 

 

Often times, if the carb is leaking through the weep hole in the bottom of the carb and not between the upper and lower halves, it's an emulsion tube issue where as you need to seat the emulsion tube. Check the videos on Briggs Flo Jet carb repairs and you'll see the fix for that. Best of luck with the 66 101 Landlord with Hydro Lift! Cheers! Zip~

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte
7 hours ago, ZippoVarga said:

Often times, if the carb is leaking through the weep hole in the bottom of the carb and not between the upper and lower halves, it's an emulsion tube issue where as you need to seat the emulsion tube. Check the videos on Briggs Flo Jet carb repairs and you'll see the fix for that. Best of luck with the 66 101 Landlord with Hydro Lift! Cheers! Zip~

Just pulled the carburetor apart Zip, and found things inside exceptionally clean though the outside was caked with dirt and grease. . Unfortunately I tore the bowl gasket so I will have to wait to put it back together until the carb kit comes in. Wish I knew the trick before I pulled a clean carburetor apart though, but it gives me time to check out other stuff. I have a battery jumped onto the electrical system. I can crank and feel compression with the spark plug out of the engine, but I am only getting a weak spark, or no spark at all. The previous owner has done several of these, but didn't touch this one, and he said he has had to replace the magneto coil on just about every Briggs of that era  he has done.  He actually converted one to a battery ignition. Coils aren't that pricey, but it will mean pulling the engine. I will check the compression of the engine once the test battery charges for a while. If it seems low, I might as well pull the head and do the valves and piston rings while it is on the stand. 

Edited by bnolte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte
9 hours ago, 720nut said:

I have same problem if you find a cure be sure to let us know 666

I will probably inherit enough bins and drawer cabinets to classify everything down to the smallest detail. I have a habit when I go to TSC to buy more hardware than I immediately need for a project, and over the last 25 years I have  accumulated surpluses of certain types of hardware, especially 3/8 grade 5 nuts and 7/16 grade 5 bolts. Thinking of trashing all the grade 2 stuff I got, except for carriage bolts. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
720nut
46 minutes ago, bnolte said:

I will probably inherit enough bins and drawer cabinets to classify everything down to the smallest detail. I have a habit when I go to TSC to buy more hardware than I immediately need for a project, and over the last 25 years I have  accumulated surpluses of certain types of hardware, especially 3/8 grade 5 nuts and 7/16 grade 5 bolts. Thinking of trashing all the grade 2 stuff I got, except for carriage bolts. 

I use mostly grade 8"s, just a few cents more than grade 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

Compression tester showed pretty low readings when cranking it over with the Starter Generator, so I pulled the head to take a peek. Aside from carbon buildup on the piston and valves (which actually still had lead deposits on them) things don't look particularly bad inside, the cylinder bore is worn about .006 over, but the piston is snug and the cylinder walls are smooth. I haven't pulled the piston out yet, which will require removing the engine from the tractor. Was hoping to avoid it at this stage, but I think it is inevitable. 

The engine had been sitting a long time, and I get the feeling that it hasn't really been messed with, but there are some issues I have found. 

 

20171103_095635_resized.thumb.jpg.2a44b49ebd6a3a70d354a2f14d65b6e5.jpg

59fc83847e9ad_HEADGASKET2.thumb.jpg.3220130a2c7195b8f2b21ea3aa2e2f56.jpg

The block has a little pitting around the exhaust valve, but the head gasket was intact here, but a little shiny. Most of the rest of the gasket left deposits on the head and block, which I removed. 

landlordbsvalveseats.jpg.e44e15aaff1adb9af99e5ccd44303c21.jpg

59fc9a2ee399f_bslandlordvalves.thumb.jpg.a5e3fd632496204bc3875de2ba1d5659.jpg

Next I removed the valves and cleaned them up with a wire wheel. The seats showed some wear and light pitting, particularly the intake valve, and I noticed a deep groove on the face of the intake valve. Valve will need to be ground or replaced. Perhaps the wear groove on the intake valve was causing clearance issues, especially with a hot engine. 

I am going to have a***of a time getting the valves back in. I have one of the valve spring compressors that comes in from the side, and it really makes it hard to reseat the keepers, just with my experience with Kohlers. The valve box on the Briggs is smaller than the Kohler, so I need to figure out how to proceed, and any suggestions will be helpful. Zippo, I will check your videos to try and get some tips. 

 

HEAD GASKET 1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

Got some more work done on the Landlord, mainly getting the engine out of the tractor and stripped down. A bit of a pain dealing with all the stuff on the flywheel end of the engine, and blew at least a pound of crap out of the engine before I got it apart. The crank, rod, and piston look fine, and I already ordered a set of rings for it, as well as a new coil just for good measure. I will take the grooved intake valve down to Reisterstown and get it reground. 

101engine.thumb.jpg.094099e2a6d82e0f258d099915de3f3c.jpg

101engine2.thumb.jpg.87c372a40847e1f83997c6eae8a71ba9.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
720nut

Need to check block just to be sure it ain't warped, head needs resurfaced to, grind the valve seats too.

I'm sure you've already considered all these, but just thought I'ld try to help.

As for the valves I have a small engine compressor and use a little grease on keepers to reinstall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

Making progress with the motor, got the engine innards back in and buttoned up, but I decided to paint the tins, and I expect it to take several days to dry. Its been a while since I put valve collets back in, but I figured a decent way to get them in with my existing tools. Can't  wait to hear it run!!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

The 101 project has lied dormant most of the winter, due to extreme cold and back to back family emergencies, but things are thawing out and spare time is getting a bit more available. I have received new period correct front tires from TSC, and have the engine buttoned up.

20180301_123744_resized.jpg.e158568369add566ebd70967c72aa0d9.jpg

As often happens, one project tends to spawn others, and in this case I am in the process of building a test stand for the engine. I have at least gotten fuel to the carb, and so far it doesn't leak, but I need to find a better way to support the fuel tank . 

20180301_123815_resized.jpg.38ba892134f3fd4de4a4936727d4cd93.jpg

 

20180301_123828_resized.jpg.a57fe1a881f41e45f4621d40dd8f2150.jpg

The erector set iron I have is totally inadequate for supporting the test fuel tank and other planned items so I need to rethink the whole thing. I have a Delco electromechanical regulator for use with these older engines, and I want to put  a starter relay, battery,  and a set of choke and throttle controls, and an ignition switch on a panel. Some of the stuff I am getting from scrapping out a junked 4212, and from bits and pieces around the shop. The Workmate supports the engine okay, and I can fold it up out of the way when I am done with it, but I need  a side table for mounting the heavier stuff. At least I am moving on it.

Edited by bnolte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

Yet another update. Got the first signs of life from the engine. With a fresh battery, jumper cables, and some starting fluid, I got it to come to life. Tomorrow I will try to get it to run with the carburetor. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishnwiz
4 hours ago, bnolte said:

Yet another update. Got the first signs of life from the engine. With a fresh battery, jumper cables, and some starting fluid, I got it to come to life. Tomorrow I will try to get it to run with the carburetor. 

Best part of a new to you, non running tractor is the 1st time it roars to life.IMO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bnolte

The engine seems strong, but I still need to work out a few kinks though. A piece of the governor linkage went missing, the one that goes between the governor and the throttle. If I don't find it soon I will have to source one or make a new one out of high tensile fence wire or a bicycle spoke. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • Marty-MN
    • RayS
    • RenegadeJ
    • littlefan
    • steve-wis
    • TTDE419
    • Mach1martysr
  • Today's Birthdays

    No users celebrating today
  • Recent Status Updates

    • Paul M.Murphy

      Paul M.Murphy

      Hello glad I got on this site. I hope to upload a couple of photos of my Simplicity Broadmoor 
      Model 707 Tractor. I have replaced all the belts on it and installed a new ignition switch.
      Have a mower deck which was in poor shape , repaced a couple of bushings and welded the
      deck where there was some holes. The tractor and mower deck came from a friend and the 
      mower deck metal was getting pretty thin. Some new metal was put in it and we also undercoated the underside of the deck. This was done by my friend Greg Toulman.
      I have not put the mower deck on the tractor yet, waiting for Greg to come home and give me a hand. Can you please tell me if there is a manual for the mower deck and where I could get one.
      I would also like to get some moon wheel discs as well.
      I will try and down load some photos of the tractor when my wife shows me how to. 
      I really love driving this tractor and also how well it is made compare today's tractors, especially the flexible rear end and the rollers.
      Tell the next time 
      Paul
       
      · 8 replies
    • jbrooks

      jbrooks  »  Talntedmrgreen

      Josh
       
      folowing  this from a link at the downloads.  I just rescued an AC 920 with the lambodini diesel. I can' t download  yet .  Where did you find the PDF copy you posted. . I would like to figure out how to adjust the injection pump. 
      I assume it's a bosche, correct
      · 0 replies
  • Adverts

×