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SmilinSam

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SmilinSam
Testing the stator as I understand the test, I use the meter set for ohms and test the two ac leads out of it by putting one meter connection to the end of one ac stator lead and grounding the other meter connection to the frame. This yields a positve connection. If I understand correctly, that means the stator is grounded and needs replaced..??.. Is that correct??? Forgive the greenness.....trying to learn a few new tricks SmilinSam

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Al
Sam, There is an article I did on these systems in the service section of this site, or you can go to our edensltd.com site and look in the tech notes section. The same article is there. Good luck, Al Eden

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SmilinSam
Read the article and will try the tests again tomorrow. Curious note though, to begin with I found the ac outputs disconnected from the rectifier. I plugged them back in and when I turned the key on the amp gauge on the tractor instantly buried itself to the negative side . Comes back to zero when you shut the key off. The leads were all plugged into the right sockets. What significance does that have if any????? Also noted that most of the insulation on the ground cable to the battery was melted off at one time.........

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Al
Sam, Sounds like the rectifier may be shorted or something in the wires to it or to the stator may be grounded. Like the battery is back feeding into the stator or to ground. If the rectifier is good it should not be able to do this. Did it work ok and suddenly just quit? Good luck, Al Eden

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SmilinSam
I'm picking up wher the previous owner got tired of throwing money at the problems. When I got it the AC wires off the stator were not attached to the rectifier. I see why now. Now I have to run down the problem and find it. Previous owners story was that he replaced the regulator and rectifier without results. In my first tests I did find that the stator is grounded. Shows that with both ac leads. Whats that mean? I'll check the rectifier tomorrow.

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SmilinSam
Ok Al, and the rest of you, I ran tests tonight and came up with the following( mind you I have only a little understanding of the settings on the meters I'm using) Resistance check on the stator yields .6 between the black leads; .7 between one black lead and the red lead and .8 from the other black lead to the red. Black leads to ground are .5 and .4 respectively AC output with stator unplugged is only 2.2 volts max(thats all I can get out of it at higher RPM's. It drops to less than that at lower rpms. Regulator, no deflection either way from red lead to base. Also NO deflection EITHER way from black lead to base. Base is grounded good to frame. On the rectifier, I am not sure of what I am doing here as far as meter settings and reading the results goes. From the left ac terminal to the DC(center) out terminal I have meter readings off the scale with leads hooked up either way. From the right ac terminal to the DC out gives no reading one way and 9-10 ohms the other way. Other rectifiers I have from other engines read the same way. Thats the extent of the work tonight and I'm as lost as I was to begin with, I must be pretty dense...... If you hook all the wires up and turn the keyswitch to the on position the amp gauge hits the stops on the negative side until you unhook the Stator AC outputs from the rectifier. What does that signify? SOS SOS SOS..........

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MPH
Not sure if you can see the wires from the Stator AC outputs, but with them unhooked you might try cheching with the ohm meter from the terminals you take off to ground. I would think you should have an open there, no reading. If you tough your two meter leads together your needle should go to zero, ie a short..good luck..MPH

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SmilinSam
Both the ac leads from the stator are shorted to ground as I said in the first question opening the discussuin. In fact all thre wires (2 black and 1 red) all yield a ground connection to the tractor frame. The terminals on the rectifier are not shorted though. Sam Oh and thanks, I need all the luck I can get with learning new wiring procedures. Once learned though it seems to stick.

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Guest
The stator needs replaced. Neither of the a.c. leads should have any continuity to ground. It may have ruined the regulator as well, but start with the stator.

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JeffG
Sam, I'm voting for stator replacement, also. I think clubmember DanMig has a NOS Onan stator for sale, at a reasonable price. One question - this is on a 4040, correct? The 4040 has a single regulator/rectifier box which was later replaced by the two separate units. The earlier models had the box located behind the flywheel, and the later models mounted the box to the right side of the frame. If you have the two separate units, someone may have already been monkey-ing around with it. Therefore, I would get the wiring diagrams and make sure everything is wired properly. Make sure its right first, and then start to figure out what may need replaced. It wouldn't make any sense to replace a part and still have the underlying problem exist. 2 cents worth, so value accordingly. Jeff

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