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CVSB10JCS

ROLLER SHAFT #1668541 - $160.20

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CVSB10JCS

Broke the end roller off and I already welded it before so thought I would get a new shaft installed to continue leaf vacuuming and weld again thru winter. I was shocked to hear $160.00 for a piece of round stock and flatbar welded together!!!!!!   Loooks like I need to just reweld my existing one and then make a new one (or two)!

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rich_kildow

Yeah, it's highway robbery what they get for that piece.  Fleet Farm in our area carries the right diameter cold rolled rod, which I grabbed 3 off.  I saw somebody on here ground out the weld, punched out the stub, and welded the new one in.  Should make it as good as new.

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ShaunE

I have two 48" RBT roller bars & one 42" FDT roller bar already made in the garage as spares. Even have the holes drilled in them as well.  I did the same as Rich mentioned above.  One thing I did though was I made them slightly shorter.  Only one roller width outside the brackets.  This prevents them from catching on things & bending/breaking.

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PhanDad

I balked at the price Simplicity wanted for a 48" roller bar (about $60) several years ago and also made by own with the help of my welder neighbor.  As "raw material" I had found a Conquest/Prestige newer type roller bar complete with rollers, washers, spacers,  a compression spring, and push nuts on eBay for a great price.  I "remanufactured" it for my Sovereign deck and decided not to drill the "new" bar for cotter pins.  I installed the rollers in a similar fashion as was done on the newer deck (no holes/cotter pins):

IMG_7768.thumb.JPG.f51221bf972403e6960946c20c410dcf.JPG

IMG_7771.thumb.JPG.bdcc9cf28403b12aa82ebe7a6b3cbfd1.JPG

IMG_7772.thumb.JPG.8d70425ed6fbc7578eaa11c3ad80f835.JPG

My daughter recently broke a roller bar (hit something and it broke at a cotter pin hole) and I made up another one similar to the one above.  To remove the old bar from the support, I used the "band saw trick" used by  jlasater in his recent post:

  https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/56128-simplicity-9020-project/?page=3&tab=comments#comment-467394

It worked much better than grinding as I had done on the first roller bar. 

An "improvement" on the second roller bar was the use of 9/16" collars instead of the push nuts on the ends of the bar:

5a0e23e842218_shaftcollar.thumb.jpg.57d17f3153eee1857222c20742f26af6.jpg

I'm hoping the undrilled roller bar will be stronger at the risk of something else breaking - and sometimes strengthening one thing means damaging something else that's more costly.

 

Edited by PhanDad
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acken

On the newer decks with a straight arm you can switch sides after punching out the cut off shaft.  This gives you a new hole on the free end, and weld the shaft to the egged out hole.

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CVSB10JCS

got one off internet cheaper, will take to local weld shop to see what it costs to duplicate. also did some research and I think I want 1144 cold rolled steel. the description says tougher & flexable!

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Kenh

I welded four shaft colors to my bar support (one on each side) after removing the old bar.  I purchased a new bar from the local machine shop.  Now if I bent or break a bar I just buy or straiten the old one.  It comes out easy peasy!

 

Ken

Edited by Kenh

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spi

I also made a new bar for my deck, also made a new roller out of a piece of oak. Soaked it in oil for a while and  it has mowed the lawn three times. It'll be interesting to see how it lasts.

For that kind of money I'll get creative.

 

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