Simplicity 7117 Resoration (IN PROGRESS)

[mcd]

11 hours ago, MikeES said:

One correction, looking at the age of your tractor, I believe to remove your steering wheel there is a nut under the center hub cap of the steering wheel.  By the early 80s Simplicity quit using the through bolt to hold the steering wheel. 

I would guess your tractor is a 1982 or 83.

I think you're right about that. Glad to know what year the tractor was made. I had been curious about that for a while. Older and running better than I am.

[720nut]

On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 3:09 PM, mcd said:

I would be interested.

Let me look and see if I have a deck with one to pattern, I know I had a Sovereign with one but that went to gravey72

[mcd]

I went to remove the steering wheel today and it mine is put on the way @PhanDad had explained (with a bolt through the steering wheel). I removed the nut from the threaded side of the bolt no problem and assumed I could then just push the bolt out but the thing did not want to move. So I tried to remove the bolt with a 1/2" (I think) socket from the head of the bolt. The thing did not want to spin. I got out the breaker bar and got it moving a little bit and then the damn thing broke in half. The head side of the bolt then came out but now I have half of the bolt stuck in there. Any recommendations on getting this thing out? I put a metal rod through the open end and tried whacking it with a mallet but the thing will not budge.

Edited December 18, 2017 by mcd

[PhanDad]

If you can double nut the "nut" end of the bolt, Soak it with penatrant and Try to turn it out.  

If not, drill it out.

 

[ShaunE]

X2 on what PhanDad said.  The later versions used a Roll Pin instead of the bolt.  If you can't double nut it to break it free, you will have to drill it out.  I would suggest placing a flat washer as a barrier between the plastic steering wheel & the nut to minimize damage to the steering wheel.  Hopefully if it doesn't loosen, it will break at a point far enough inward where you can remove the steering wheel before drilling.  But it probably won't if your as lucky as the rest of us.

Another option instead of using a punch & hammer is an air chisel with a blunt point.

Perseverance will pay off.

Remember this when you re-assemble, SS bolts & Anti-sieze can be your friend.

[720nut]

Never had one I couldn't just drive out. Just my $.02

[mcd]

6 hours ago, 720nut said:

Never had one I couldn't just drive out. Just my $.02

Same here. I figured it would come out if I hit it with the right thing. Last night I had ran out of PB Blaster so I was using WD40. Ran by the store today and grabbed a new can of PB and a long 3/8" bolt. Sprayed the PB, put the long bolt in the open hole, 2 hits with the mallet and it came right out

[720nut]

Don't ya love it when a plan comes together ?

[dhoadley]

16 hours ago, mcd said:

Same here. I figured it would come out if I hit it with the right thing. Last night I had ran out of PB Blaster so I was using WD40. Ran by the store today and grabbed a new can of PB and a long 3/8" bolt. Sprayed the PB, put the long bolt in the open hole, 2 hits with the mallet and it came right out

[mcd]

I got tired of grinding the wheels/mower deck so I bought a Northern Tool wet sandblasting kit. After a lot of trial and error I finally was able to strip them down. Last night I sanded, prepped and primed them with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I will move forward with painting them sometime soon. This was my first time using my electric spray gun so it took some time getting used to it (unfortunately there were some runs). I plan to replace these tires before I finish up the job so I half assed the tape job on the big tires. I did use some tire shine on the exposed portion so maybe it won't stick? I should have blasted off the sticker but thought I was going to try to preserve it. I ended up spraying over top of it.

 

Edited December 19, 2017 by mcd

[B-16_IC]

Nice looking shop! Mine hasn't been that roomy or clean in many years!  I see you even have some supervision to keep you in line. 

[mcd]

Wanted some opinions on wheel color. I have purchased Rustoelum Allis Chalmer orange paint to do the body/deck and also Rustoelum Navajo White for the hood. I am trying to decide if I should do the wheels in the same Navajo White or if I should do them flat black/dark grey. Flat black/dark grey would hide the runs and imperfections better but white would be closer to the original color. I have a lot of flat black/dark grey paint laying around already. 

[mcd]

15 hours ago, B-16_IC said:

Nice looking shop! Mine hasn't been that roomy or clean in many years!  I see you even have some supervision to keep you in line. 

Haha she does not enjoy being out there nearly as much as I do  I think you can tell by her expression. Thanks! I bought this house a year ago and the garage was a huge selling point. I don't think I could move anywhere without a space that big after getting used to it.

[mcd]

Any recommendations for work I should do on the engine while I have it out? I'm not very mechanically savy but can figure most things out with Google.

[yukon]

so far so good looking forward to seeing the finish

[720nut]

56 minutes ago, yukon said:

so far so good looking forward to seeing the finish

Kind of my thoughts too

[maxwood]

Hello, You asked about the engine . I would suggest you remove some of the  metal shrouds (tins) and clean out between the cooling fins.  Check for oily  areas and remove any grass or debris    that you find.   Great Job !!

 

Thanks Ken inMI

[mcd]

4 hours ago, yukon said:

so far so good looking forward to seeing the finish

It's a tedious project. I'm working on it almost daily. Haven't really been updating the pics but will once I'm all wrapped up. Got the wheels painted white yesterday and they're looking really good.

[mcd]

3 hours ago, maxwood said:

Hello, You asked about the engine . I would suggest you remove some of the  metal shrouds (tins) and clean out between the cooling fins.  Check for oily  areas and remove any grass or debris    that you find.   Great Job !!

 

Thanks Ken inMI

Thanks! I will definitely do this. Is there any issue with me spraying the engine with high temp black paint?

[MikeES]

No issue with painting the engine.

I read that the air cooled engines run cooler painted flat or satin black over anything else including no paint.

[seoulski]

Looks really Nice!

What is this wet blasting kit from Northern tool you speak of?

BTW I don't run with my deck covers in place.  

[ShaunE]

On 12/22/2017 at 3:37 PM, mcd said:

Any recommendations for work I should do on the engine while I have it out? I'm not very mechanically savy but can figure most things out with Google.

If you have the provisions to add the oil filter adapter & filter, then now is the time.  I believe I sent you the part numbers in a post when you first joined.  Check ebay for used parts.  This can only be done if you have the provisions (removable plate.)

& remove all the engine tins, flywheel, starter & pressure wash the engine being careful not to hit the seals directly.  

Then clean & lubricate the starter or even take it in to a starter shop & have them check it out.  

[mcd]

5 hours ago, seoulski said:

Looks really Nice!

What is this wet blasting kit from Northern tool you speak of?

BTW I don't run with my deck covers in place.  

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660204_200660204

 

Coarse sand blasting media does not work well with this kit so be sure to use fine media. Also be very careful to keep the sand input aimed up or water will run back into the hose and cause headaches. It took me a while to get down the proper technique but it works very well if you use it properly.

[mcd]

4 hours ago, ShaunE said:

If you have the provisions to add the oil filter adapter & filter, then now is the time.  I believe I sent you the part numbers in a post when you first joined.  Check ebay for used parts.  This can only be done if you have the provisions (removable plate.)

& remove all the engine tins, flywheel, starter & pressure wash the engine being careful not to hit the seals directly.  

Then clean & lubricate the starter or even take it in to a starter shop & have them check it out.  

Thanks for reminding me. I looked back at the old thread and have pulled up the part online. I'll check to see if my engine is able to add this.

[mcd]

Being underneath the tractor I noticed that the braided lift cable for the lift arm (right side next to brake) is broken. I guess this is something I would only use for the snow blower or some other attachment. Can somebody please send me the part # so I can replace this?

 

I also broke the headlight switch fuse when trying to remove it. Does anybody know what I need to buy to replace this?

Edited December 24, 2017 by mcd