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Easy tire installation

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SimpleOrange

My 9020 getting one of her boots reinstalled, after repairing a rusted and seized brake pad, the rear AG tire is loaded with calcium chloride fitted with prickly chains and weighs close to 300 pounds.

It's taking me longer to make this post and upload pictures than it did to install the tire.

The 9/16th bolts 18 tpi, heads removed then a slight taper was ground in while turning the bolt in the lathe. Reason I used the grinder is that I did not want to over tighten the chuck taking a chance on ruining the threads.

 

I placed my cheaters at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, easy tire install.cheater1.thumb.png.8050061bb5711215571ac137d9c3d893.pngcheater2.thumb.png.a9dbf19bdedf9c92f419b5f64227fd4f.pngcheater3.thumb.png.d18708a8b9c251f4e95e2146145be08b.png

 

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SimpleOrange

Re: tire chains, I purchased three sets of 11/00-22.5 singles from the scrap yard for $10.00 each, then I borrowed the chain pliers from the farm to make up the set the 9020 now wears.

Removed two links from each cross chain and had to shorten the side chains a bit.

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SimpleOrange
32 minutes ago, Talntedmrgreen said:

I LOVE your tires.  I need to find me 2 pair identical to those, on rims.  Nice tip on the easy install.  

Probably the original 45 year old Good Years the tractor shipped from the factory with, no weather checking or rot. I did however replace the tubes with new wet/air then refilled with new calcium chloride.

One rim was badly eaten away from the calcium, I could have purchased a new one from a company is Saskatchewan that makes rims. Instead went on the hunt for a 16 inch rim for a donor. Found one on a 3/4 tone Dodge van.

The Dodge rim was an 8 hole, after removing the tire found that one beaded side would work, so I cut the rim in half then did the same with the 9020 rim then adjusted for the required width a  little bit of grinding then welded the two halves together.

I would not suggest doing this if your going tubeless or a bird chit welder.

On a side note the Dodge rim used a slightly different style of bead on the rim than the 9020 but the center diameter was a perfect fit and the two halves mated right up..

On the 9020 rim did not have to remove the center piece with the colt circle, it was the back half of the rim that I was replacing..

It was my duty to inform the tire shop of the modification just in case they felt the need to use the tire cage, but they had no issue with the modification.

Edited by SimpleOrange
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ShaunE

Gill, all of my Sovereign tractors & my 720 I have replaced all the lug bolts with grade 8 bolts threaded in from the back side with Red Loc-Tite.  I then use lug nuts on the outside.  I found like you, it is much easier to remove & install the wheels.

Thanks again for all your detailed posts.  They are greatly appreciated!

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Talntedmrgreen

Yeah, I'm not going to be modifying rims anytime soon.  The rims I can find relatively inexpensively.  They are $65/ea, new.  It's the tires that I would really like to track down.  Again, new are available, but I would like to find two sets with a few decades on them.  

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SimpleOrange
1 hour ago, Talntedmrgreen said:

Yeah, I'm not going to be modifying rims anytime soon.  The rims I can find relatively inexpensively.  They are $65/ea, new.  It's the tires that I would really like to track down.  Again, new are available, but I would like to find two sets with a few decades on them.  

Older swather's late 70's through the 80's used 15 and 16 inch Ag's, on the drivers both sizes had a 6 on 6" hole pattern. I don't think the center offset is suitable for our needs. But you might find an old swather laid up in some farmers field, behind the barn or at the scrap yard.

One thing I've noticed on the 9020 with the larger 3 rib front tires is that steering is effortless., also this would relate to less stress on the steering geometry, tie rod ends and steering box.

 

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SimpleOrange

You know it's cold out when you extension cord used to plug your trucks block heater into will not uncoil.

Ok we had some snow fall while I was doing the 9020 repair so I figured time to blow snow, what really amazes me is that this 45 year old Onan will start right up in sub zero temperatures whereas my truck requires a block heater.

My wiring is bits a pieces so I use a jumper to start the engine, now with the engine purring away I board the machine to back her out for todays snow remove. Hmm no response to either forward or reverse advancing the hydro control in either direction, so I'm figuring the hydraulic oil has thickened.

You may recal that I decided not to reinstall the hydraulic cylinder for the 3 point hitch lift and installed a hose. I did the hose thing in case someone accidentally activated the lift control, this way the oil would just recirculate insead of emptying the transmission case.

Ahh ha a good way to thin out the hydraulic oil, let the hydro charge pump recirculate it for five minutes..

While all this is going on I come into the house for a cup of coffee and to warm up.

Head back out and board the tractor, slide the hydro into reverse  and no go.

Senior moment, to position the cheater dowels into the 9 and 3 o'clock positions I had put the trans-axle into neutral

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SimpleOrange
2 hours ago, B-16_IC said:

I can't tell you how many times I have tried to start a tractor with the gas shut off. O.o 

Knowing what happened with the previous owner, pin hole in fuel pump diaphragm that resulted in the dilution of the engine oil leading to exeessive smoke decided to install an electric which also doubles up as a fuel shut off.

One could install an in-line 12 volt fuel shut off as shown the the image below.

Another oddity with the 9020 and the 720 is that there is a secondary fuel line used to return fuel to the tank, it's  a fuel pressure regulator. The reason I'm bringing it up is because it  was a source of trouble after the 9020 sat for a very long.

I used the carburetor from the original engine from the 9020 to test run a newly rebuilt CCK and no matter what I did I could not get the carburetor to stop flooding gas out of the intake throat.

Then at last I removed that odd looking fitting, it has a very small hole inside that is  maybe 1/16" which had filled with rust. Once cleaned and reinstalled the flooding problem went away. The green fuel line leads to the electric.

Since the fitting is made from iron rust is inevitable.

When I cleaned up the original carburetor I had completely dissembled it, the inside was full of old gasoline varnish that had dried up like old paint.  With all the small bits put into a metal can then covered with poly stripper paint remover.

During a carburetor rebuild always be sure to check the throttle shaft for wear and to see how firmly it sits it the boss's. If the boss's are worn you can have them bushed.

If the carburetor leaks air from these locations you'll never get the carb adjustment proper nor get the engine to idle down.

 

fuel2.png.9d71e417693c94efafe40309974f26e7.pngfuel.thumb.png.bad861cda38009ae5be38171ca8f7ea9.png

Edited by SimpleOrange

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720nut
On ‎12‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 10:17 PM, ShaunE said:

Gill, all of my Sovereign tractors & my 720 I have replaced all the lug bolts with grade 8 bolts threaded in from the back side with Red Loc-Tite.  I then use lug nuts on the outside.  I found like you, it is much easier to remove & install the wheels.

Thanks again for all your detailed posts.  They are greatly appreciated!

Another one who appreciates your posts dOd

Shaun someday I plan to do the same with all of mine wheel studs

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SimpleOrange

A stroll down memory lane, vehicles using bolts instead of studs back in the 1940's through the 50"s usually had a locating pin to assist with installing a tire.

The pin was meant to be in the 12 o'clock position during a roadside tire install, letting gravity center the heavy rim.

In addition to wheel lug holes the rims were equipped with locater holes to facilitate the use of the pin.

 

apin.png.e639dcadbbdbc782616e308834b468c8.png

 

 

Edited by SimpleOrange

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SimpleOrange
1 hour ago, Allen Cooper said:

Some may already know this but Dorman Products has a chart for all of their wheel studs and another one for their lug nuts.

Yes a nice clean retrofit would be to drill out the threaded holes  then press in wheels studs.

Should anyone decide to do this modification I've given the measurement for the thickness of the wheel hub, you would probably have to remove the axle from the bull gear housing in order to press in the new studs.

Since the differential of my Allis 720  is almost completely disassembled and getting all the bearings replaced this would be a good time to install wheel studs.

The caliper is set to inches, 0.404.5"

lug.png.646f9cf76d8a9be2ebaf6cc7dd8ff4c2.png

hub1.thumb.png.3e7f701ffb6fece84e04c0bace009520.png

hub2.png.2ac260ccf343d05835bf34ca967e55c2.png

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720nut

You can pull them in with lugnut and couple of washers same as you do any axle, nothing specail

My preference would be same as Shaun mentioned earlier with bolt and lock washer from rear.

Edited by 720nut

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ShaunE
5 hours ago, 720nut said:

My preference would be same as Shaun mentioned earlier with bolt and lock washer from rear.

Thanks Lloyd.  I didn't use lock washers though.  I used Red Loc-tite & Grade 8 bolts from Fastenal.

There is adequate clearance to install "Your Choice" of studs without disassembly as long as you put the transmission in neutral, you can rotate the hub.  

If you are doing this on a Sovereign platform RBT or FTD, you have to loosen up the collar & pull the Right axle out just far enough for clearance from the differential.

Edited by ShaunE

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