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wwbragg

7119 cone clutch

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wwbragg

The Vanguard repower on my 7119 went well but as soon as I fire it up, I found growling in the mid PTO.  So I'm thinking I need to rebuild the cone clutch.  The parts list looks like the Plate Assembly pulls off but you know how it is -- - -nothing is as easy as it seams.  Should I use a simple three finger wheel puller hooked over the edge of the Plate?  

DSCF0506.JPG

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PhanDad

I assume by "plate" you mean the outer cone.  It usually comes off easily after removed the nut, sometimes a puller isn't even necessary.  If the noise is because the cone lining is shot, your mechanical work is done.  Either pay Simplicity big bucks for a replacement cone, find a used one with lining left, or get out the leather and glue.

If it's the bearing, there's more work to be done.  There's a write up the repair manual of how to do it - you need to compress the inner spring to remove a retaining ring - not the most fun job, and to do it, you have to remove the small, probably rusted in small bolts holding the rotating cage.  And then pay Simplicity big bucks for a replacement bearing or find a good used one (I don't think anyone has found a bearing supplier match).  Enjoy.

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PhanDad

PS - Hopefully the noise isn't coming from the BGB.  If your BGB does this:

You've got more work to do.

And you may find this:

IMG_9450.thumb.JPG.934bb7d83f2c8a2fd36dd3a1b646592b.JPG

And hopefully that's all (but not likely).

Edited by PhanDad

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ShaunE
1 hour ago, PhanDad said:

And then pay Simplicity big bucks for a replacement bearing or find a good used one (I don't think anyone has found a bearing supplier match).

Timken 1014KRR it the replacement bearing.  I've replaced two over the years.  Last one I bought was $70 something a couple years back.

Edited by ShaunE
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PhanDad
2 hours ago, ShaunE said:

Timken 1014KRR it the replacement bearing.  I've replaced two over the years.  Last one I bought was $70 something a couple years back.

There is a bargain on e-Bay now for that bearing + col(lar) which isn't needed (NOS ).

Time to stock up?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-FAFNIR-1014KRR-COL-BEARING-INSERT-w-COLLAR-1014-KRR-COL-7-8-BORE/232050529861?hash=item36074a1645:g:Q90AAOSw9NdXsza8

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wwbragg

Finally got back to the PTO cone clutch.  The bearing is fine but the break material on the pivot assembly is all gone.  It was rubbing directly, metal to metal on the pulley, screeching loudly.  When I was a kid we had some brake shoes re-lined.  Can that be done with the pivot assembly???  Any body have a pivot assembly (Simplicity 1650906ASM) in good shape to part with?

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PhanDad
12 hours ago, wwbragg said:

When I was a kid we had some brake shoes re-lined.  Can that be done with the pivot assembly???

The cone has the lining.  

Is the pivoting pulley assembly worn so bad it also needs replacing?

 

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wwbragg

The cone has lining around the inner diameter.  When engaged, the cone contacts the duel pulley and powers the implement.  But the pivot assy also has lining material on the inner back surface.  When disengaged, the pulley is drawn away from the cone and the pivot assy comes in contact with the brake disk to stop rotation.

pivot 2.jpg

pivot.jpg

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PhanDad
3 hours ago, wwbragg said:

the pivot assy also has lining material on the inner back surface

Oops, forgot all about that lining.  

I've never experienced or heard about it wearing out.  

First time for everything!

 

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wwbragg

Following a tip from rocon2813, I ordered brake lining material from McMaster Carr.  I'll glue it on with JB Weld.  Same basic fix as using leather strips but I think the material will hold up longer.  The material on the cone plate is still 1/8 inch thick so I'll use it as is.

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