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richp

ignition

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Guest
Rich ,I have one of the ATOM modules insatlled in an old lawnboy lawnmower ,it has run without a hitch for ten to fifteen years ...
Good luck Jim.

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Guest
I don't beleive they are made for battery ignition, or high reving 2-cycles or possibly electric start systems.

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svon
Rich, NAPA has what you need for the 12 HP Briggs[if that's what you're putting it on!]It mounts on the trac frame with a good ground and just simply wires up in place of the points!It's about the size of a 1/2 stick of chewing gum! No more backfiring, running lousy when wet,or any of the problems associated with points! Cost I'm not sure of. BTW when are we gonna see this beauty in the "gallery!"? dlc

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svon
7-20-99 @ 22:13

Northern Hydraulics sells the solid state ignition modules.
I would love to put one on my B & S Model 19 but do not
know if it will work or not.

Model 19 points are located on the side of the block
with a pivot arm that runs on the cam. Will an ignition
module work on this type engine?

I do not understand how the ignition module gets the
signal telling it to fire. I always thought they had
to mount beneath the flywheel to pickup the signal from
the flywheel magnets.

If anyone knows how to install an ignition module on
my Model 19 I would appreciate the information.

Thanks,
Roy

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svon
I have a Sten's Mega Fire going for 9 years in my 7010 Simplicity, however I had to retain points as the cast iron engines have external point and use camshaft to fire plug. Without the points engine engine will spit, sputter, backfire and then maybe start. I re-routed one of the wires thru the points and now like the Timex watch "with ever licking it keeps on ticking".

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svon
Roy see my message in this group. It will work as long as you retain points and give them normal or like me a more sloppy setting as the module takes over as points close.
Bob Tiarks

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Les
7-21-99 @ 22:24

Bob,

Thanks for the info. You confirmed my suspicion (sp?)
concerning a trigger (the points) on cast iron B & S's.
with side mounted points.

Please go a little farther for us dummies. I see wiring
one of the module leads through the points (probably
the ground lead) but I don't follow the rest. Does the
module have an output lead that connects to the wire
going to the coil beneath the flywheel?

Do you have a wiring diagram for a solid state module?

Thanks again,
Roy

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John_RI
I sure wish that I had the brains to ask this same "Q" as I have just installed new points and con. on one of my Sim's. Does anyone have a part # by chance. Yes I'm getting lazy around here. I think its cutting all this darn grass that's doing it to me "NOT" Thanks good question along with good anwers. ->jackl<->happyjack<-

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tej
Roy For the Sten's unit I took the ground wire and fed it thru the points, along with the ignition wire. I forgot if I grounded the other side of the points, but using an ohmeter would confirm your circuitry. If needed I can probably make a diagram and e-mail it to Kent and have him publish it. Basically the trigger unit is nothing more than an electronic condensor. Also on the Stens unit the ground wire could be the hot wire to the coil depending on which way you have to wire it to make it spark. But most times it is the white wire. Either way I'm sold on it and admittely I haven't installed a 'ton' of them, but nine years of trouble free running has to say something. One thing I forgot to say is that I found that the trigger unit is a little hard on spark plugs.
I generally need a new plug every season. The engine will tell you that when it refuses to start
BT

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tej
Roy Stupid me!!!!!!!!! Igition is a ground wire and you ground coil to make (*^$*^% thing stop running.My first way, the engine would keep running and then you would have to ground spark plug. Been there, done that and that SMARTS.
BT

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Guest
7-22-99 @ 22:44

Bob,

I wouldn't worry about plug life being only one year.
My engine eats spark plugs like they're going out of
style. Sometimes a new spark plug will only last about
30 minutes to one hour before the engine starts missing
and/or will not start.

Anyone have a recommended COLD spark plug for old B & S
cast iron engines that will take lots of heat??

Roy

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tej
Please note if you want to use the B&S OEM solid state armature on the cast iron engines that the flywheel will need to be sent to the B&S factory to have the polarity reversed. A good time to do this is in the winter or if the engine is already apart for rebuilding. The last I heard there was no charge for this except for the shipping. It is a different part number than the 399811 which is for the smaller aluminum engines. Most of these older engines are going to have weakened coils anyway so going through the extra effort will pay off in the long run. The earlier models (19,23) I think will be a problem though to get replacement coils.

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Les
Usually Roy you want a "hot" plug to stop fouling from oil burning. Champ J19LM is one of the best for this. They have recently come out with a new "Platinum" plug but I have no experience with them - anyone else?

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tej
Roy, my AC is a 1970 with thousands of hours on it. I am on my 4th, YES 4th, spark plug; and have changed the points and condenser once, YES ONCE. This tractor starts on the first stroke (except in winter when it starts on the second) even yet today. I didn't understand all the talk about ignition, but I just must be lucky. So of course, Jeff I have no experience with the Platinum plug. Does anyone else have a similar experience??
MS

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Guest
Roy,I own an old landlord 2010,w/a B&S 10hp engine ,usually this engine would eat up plugs when your trying to start the unit....I have since used NGK bm6a spark plugs and I have not had the problem of fouling plugs.....also if you carb is burning to rich the plug life will be shorter......Good luck Jim

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tej
MikeS, I have the same experiance with ignition on my B12. I've had it for 26 years and changed points once and the plug only 3 or 4 times. Always starts right up. When the starter belt was broken I was pull starting it and it always atarted on the second pull. Tim

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