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Chris727

Fun with a Vickers.

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Chris727

I am taking the plunge and going to make my first attempt at a major hydro repair. I had this 3410H I bought several years ago and it was very rough. Before pic seen below:

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I had parted out a 7013 and robbed some parts from a 3410S to give it a little better sheet metal, got it running, fixed the charging and ignition system, new carb, better muffler, cowl, wheels, etc. After a good cleaning I found it kept leaking out its hydro fluid. A further look after removing the cam lever revealed it was leaking around the front of the pintle shaft.

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I tried to sell it last year as-is with the leak but had no luck. I wanted to tear into it earlier this winter but hadn't had the opportunity until now.  Late this afternoon the weather was OK at around 40 degrees and I decided to tackle it. I removed the oil cooler and the fan housing.

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To get the drive pulley removed I tapped it inward toward the clean end of the shaft while working it back and forth cleaning the outer edge of the key and shaft as I went. It finally came off easily with no damage or having to use a puller. 

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There are two bolts securing the pump unit to the rear axle case. I circled them in yellow. DSCN6949.thumb.JPG.79880cd2a0011842481567179e6a9a79.JPG

 

There is not quite enough clearance to remove them without having to loosen up the LH BGB sideplate. I just loosened it from the axle case and  hitch irons leaving it fully connected at the BGB as I didn't want to remove the cone clutch. This gave just enough room to jimmy it out. On the forward bolt I had to drive it out with a punch from the RH side. I cut the hoses as they were old anyway. With the bolts out I was able to jimmy the pump out easily. Boy is that thing heavy. I found a cap from a paint can that fit to plug the open hole on the transaxle. 

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Now begins the fun of disassembling the pump and finding seals. It may need a bushing installed for the pintle shaft but I am hoping since there is no slop in the shaft that its just a bad o-ring. 

Edited by Chris727
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Chris727
31 minutes ago, fishnwiz said:

What do you have in this time wise so far Chris?

Way too much but I'm in it too deep to quit now. People don't buy parts or project tractors in my area unless you give them away( $12-$20).  I would just part them and store/organize the parts but I'm out of storage space so my second to last option is to repair these tractors and hope to recoup at least  my parts cost. The last option is the scrap yard and I'm not going there. 

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fishnwiz

It looks like you have a lot of time into it.

It's a learning experience to say the least.

No space...been there ....done that.

In fact I am packed to the rafters right now but you think that would stop me from looking....but NOOOOOO wah

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PhanDad

Chris, according to Al, the cast iron gets worn and can't properly hold the o-ring.  Here's his post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/1486-vickers-hydro-leak/?tab=comments#comment-1489

Hopefully you won't have the usual problem.

There's a lot more info available in other posts.  A search will find many.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

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Chris727
2 hours ago, PhanDad said:

Chris, according to Al, the cast iron gets worn and can't properly hold the o-ring.  Here's his post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/1486-vickers-hydro-leak/?tab=comments#comment-1489

Hopefully you won't have the usual problem.

There's a lot more info available in other posts.  A search will find many.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Thank you Bill. 

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Chris727
17 hours ago, gwiseman said:

Way to make me look bad Chris. I have projects been setting here for 3-5 yes but I just start new ones & never finish any! Good job so far.

Don't worry Gene. I have my share of decade long projects around here. I am still working on the MF16 I've had since 2005 and the B-10 I've had since 2006. 

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dhoadley
4 hours ago, Chris727 said:

Don't worry Gene. I have my share of decade long projects around here. I am still working on the MF16 I've had since 2005 and the B-10 I've had since 2006. 

Ah, my people. d:)

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B-16_IC

Yep, I feel right at home! Had my B-12 scattered throughout the garage for a dozen years, couple others a few less. &:)

This is definitely an interesting project, hopefully it turns out well for you Chris. If nothing else we'll all learn something. dOd

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Chris727

I managed to disassemble the pump housing last night. The pics didn't turn out too great. It was just four bolts to separate the pump housing. 

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The piston group looked acceptable. I was getting some light gray metallic residue on my gloves so I'm hoping there wasn't much damage done. Everything appeared to still be well oiled. 

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I removed the large snap ring retaining the bearing and shaft in the pump housing and proceeded to remove the shaft/bearing assembly by knocking it out with a plastic hammer. 

The next task was to remove the yoke. This is where I had trouble. The vickers manual (what I had in the shed at the time) stated to drive the roll pins so that the pintle shafts could be removed from the yoke. I tapped on them until they bottomed out. I assumed they would drive all the way through the yoke and out the opposite side. Nope. I should have read the Simplicity issued manual first. It gave a good explanation and photo showing that the roll pins only go part way through the yoke into the pintle and that the yoke is only drilled on one side. 

 

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After knowing this, I was able to drive the pintle shafts out of the yoke. IMG_9077_revised.thumb.jpg.4e3363b156872ee98efc440cbc5236dd.jpg

 

On the shaft which was leaking, the o-ring did have a chunk out of it. There is also wear in the circled area. In a perfect world I would replace this pintle shaft. The rear shaft is not as bad but does have a little wear. 

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The housing appears to have wore except for where the o-ring sits as there is an approximately 3/16" width ridge area that is not worn. That is the best that I can ascertain from looking at it. So my thinking is that this housing needs to be bored and bushed. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Chris727
delete duplicate picture
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PhanDad

To some of you, this is probably a dumb question but what's the proper way to get the roll pin out?  I have never come across a "half roll pin".

Use an easy-out and twist it out?  I think the pin is harden, so drilling it out wouldn't be easy.  Or is there a tool to do it?

😬 Just looked at the diagram better. The shaft is thru drilled so the pin isn't bottomed out in the shaft. Just drive it out as usual 

Edited by PhanDad
Light Bulb Time - Answered my own question!
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