Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Prestige tiller lift parts


SmilinSam

Recommended Posts

Trying to piece together a rear lift system for a Prestige. Missing one part.

lift rod # 1686941

Need to know if this is a 2 piece rod assembly. I need to make one and the drawings in the parts diagrams are not adequate.

Does anyone out there actually have one of these lifts on their conquest or prestige to take a picture of?

 

I used to own 2 myself like back in 2003. Too long ago to remember how it was built.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

hey Rayyyyyyyyy  Thanks a bunch! Much better than the drawingsdOd

 

So the one nut is actually welded to the tube and the rod threads into that a ways and the other nuts let you adjust the amount of lift by locking the rod in a certain place in the tube?

What about the slide/pivot in the bracket? I take it that the rod just sldies through that and the slide/pivot  piece itself is permanently mounted in the bracket?

The  parts drawings show a spring on the end of the rod. I assume you just left that off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bracket goes on the rock shaft. I got this rearlift setup from Ron In Wisconsin a few years ago. He got it from you. I have only used it once since I got it. I need to get the spring.

The nut is welded to the tube and threaded rod is used. The rod does just slide through the bracket and probably really don’t need a a spring. You are correct about the  adjustment of the lift height as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha! so thats where one ended up&:)

 

Would it be possible to get a picture straight down onto the sleeve/pivot on/in the bracket that the threaded rod slides through?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You bet! Thanks

I am going to have to manufacture the bracket too as well as the rod.

Pretty much all hitch parts are NLA. I got everything from a Ebay auction except those 2 parts.

The tiller conversion kits are still available though...if one can stand the $440 price tag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have yet to find any kits available or parts for them.

Should be able to make all this without much trouble. Got to find some way to revive the hobby interest anyhow. Getting dangerously close to doing what others have done in the club in days gone by. Walk out the door and look at all the tractor stuff laying around and asking the question " what do I want with all this junk anyhow?"....then dispose of it all and walk away.......:J

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/12/2018 at 3:10 PM, RayS said:

I see the lift lever assemby is a $100. part number 1686941.

That part number is for the rod. It is NLA

 

The lever  or bracket as I called it is # 1723790ASM ...and it is available at about $100. I just might buy that one rather than make it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

The lever  or bracket as I called it is # 1723790ASM ...and it is available at about $100. I just might buy that one rather than make it.

Sam,

I bumped into this dealer that sometimes has Simplicity parts significantly cheaper than others.  Your part is listed at $75.50:

https://sleequipment.com/search/?fq[category_id]=0&q=1723790ASM

I've bought a couple of things and they honored the 'net price so far.  Maybe getting rid of old stock?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not only bought the lift arm bracket, I also just went ahead and bought the tiller conversion kit thats still available. Was about $80 cheaper through these guys than anyone elsedOd

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was told today that the order is on back order from the manufacturer. Going to be at least 2 weeks . Hope this doesnt mean its all NLA....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Got the new bracket and kit today . Tiller conversion kit is made in Taiwan as stamped on the box label. everything appears to be in order. Will post some pictures when I get it installed. in the next week or so.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What’s wrong with the dates on the above postings?  It’s only the 12th of March here in Australia, and it is a well known fact that the USA is two days behind us!  LOL.  Probably a good one for you to fathom out, Lloyd!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, dince said:

What’s wrong with the dates on the above postings?  It’s only the 12th of March here in Australia, and it is a well known fact that the USA is two days behind us!  LOL.  Probably a good one for you to fathom out, Lloyd!

Wow! Time has stopped down there for a month...

Here its the 12th of April &:)

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As to usability or quality I dont know that it matters. The other components, a couple identical, that I have from 2003 or so are a little more finished. The iron is smooth and neatly welded and polished up/ground nicely. These new Taiwaneese parts are the same parts, but the metal has a "rougher" texture to it and the edges are more squared off Not nearly as fine a finished product.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a problem with the tiller conversion kit. The instructions.

I need some photos of the Landlord, conquest/prestige type tiller , in particular the belt tension spring setup and the spring anchor as well as the way the mounts for the belt shield go on.

The instructions are so poorly written and illustrated that theres no way to figure out the correct placement of the parts. The anchor isnt even mentioned as to where it goes or  how the spring is tensioned. Just  a picture in the exploded parts diagram as to make you aware of the anchors existence.sm00>:(

Whoever wrote these instructions up obviously never had to actually use them to work from

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something finally jogged my bad memory and I remembered where the spring anchor went. Screw onto the end of the forwrad bearing bolt sticking out.

 

medium.DSCN1547.JPG.5a2597c59c42d8fa007e

Another problem I have with the kit is that the new smaller diameter drive pulley they send  has the same size setscrew hole, but its threaded for coarse thread, while the oem set screw and pulley hole are fine thread. This requires you to go buy a new set screw.

Another problem is the pin they send  to pin the idler pulley set in place is too short. Again requiring you to go get yet another part.

medium.DSCN1551.JPG.5f6f70cdad9b6804cf05

More parts problems  surround the idler arm that you are supposed to re-use from the original tiller setup by adding a spacer and a longer bolt.

The oem bolt is a 3'8" dia bolt,a nd the sleeve inside the idler arm is also bored for that  3/8" bolt. They however, send you a spacer that is bored to 5/16" and a 5/16" bolt that is the same length as your original bolt. ??????? ..... !@%$&^*>%$! blankety blank idiots!!!!  I mean C'mon here now..I have enough trouble with my own crs and otherwise idiocy in the shop let alone someone elses inability to write usable instructions and provide and  pack the right parts.  So... I guess I'll have to bore out the spacer and take a trip to the hardware store for yet another part.

 

Other than that this is how I figure the upper connection for the belt shield. Dont know, just doesnt seem right to me...

medium.DSCN1549.JPG.6b18bba6ce0a98c1edd1

Edited by SmilinSam
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, SmilinSam said:

??????? ..... !@%$&^*>%$! blankety blank idiots!!!! 

Make you wish you never moved on from "Sovereigns"?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, PhanDad said:

Make you wish you never moved on from "Sovereigns"?

 

No, not really. Actually I'm building another up here shortly for a  loaner tractor. DA 917 getting repowered with a k341.

What it makes me wish is not to deal with "new" retail merchandise anymore. Cars, Trucks, Tractors, or new parts thereof  all seem to be tied to problems  these days.Everyone seems to want big money for their merchandise and services, but what is delivered seems to be seldom worth the price being asked.

Fpr around $400, as little as is in that conversion kit, it  SHOULD be a straight up bolt on affair with no problems like mentioned above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...