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Kent

Yea, I finally got one, and how do you fix a 16 L-

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tej
Tim,
Sounds like I could have some new surprises as I dig a little deeper. The head was on, but no muffler attached, so the exhaust chamber was wide open to the atmosphere. Most people I've asked also seem to think it's rusted in place, and a few days of penetrating oil and working it around will probably prevail. I also took the PTO shaft cover off to pick out the pieces of connecting rod. Those are some big a** bearings you're talking about. I know the hot oil trick. Glad you reminded me about it. I have an old outdoor grill with a good side burner in my barn that gets used for steaming seafood, and now heating bearings! I checked on the parts today, and it seems they think I can even still get a short block. I could only remember the 3264** part of the motor number, so I didn't check on the exact model, and I'm not holding my breath that a short block is available. Besides, it still seems like it will be cheaper to rebuild by about $250, since I'm doing all the labor, except the machining. I'm in eastern MA. What do you suppose it would cost to ship a good cheap used Briggs engine, should this one be junk?

Greg

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tej
Check with Jeff Nemes. He is in Central NJ I think and his company has advertises them. The model is more than likely 326426 and the type is important to get right PTO end on cranshaft.

His E-mail address is on a good many posts.

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Kent
Well folks, I finally found my new pride and joy, courtesy of my new friend Uncle Bob Winters. It's a B-112 with vari-speed, 48" deck, tiller and the critical parts of the vacuum collector system. It looks like I'm going to have a blast with this tractor, and I can't wait to get it running. It came with no engine, but I was also given a seized B&S 16 casty.

My first project is to rebuild the engine. The most obvious problem is the exploded connecting rod, where it attaches to the crankshaft. I guess she got a little low on oil once. I haven't determined if the crank is salvagable yet because of difficulty getting the flywheel off, but now I have the right tool for that, so I should know by tonight. Last night, I got the intake valve out without any difficulty, but the exhaust valve is completely jammed in the valve guide, and this is what I need some help with. The valve is slightly raised from the seat (1/32") and the valve stem tip is not in contact with the lifter. After using moderate heat and lubrication, I finally decided to sacrifice the valve, and grabbed the valve head with vice-grips, and was able to get the valve to twist about 5 degrees and raise it another 1/32", but that's about all the movement I can muster. The symptoms here lead me to believe the valve stem is bent slightly, but I can't imagine how enough energy could have been transmitted to the valve stem to bend it, since the valve can't contact anything when open. It doesn't appear to be bent, but that's pretty hard to ascertain.

My next idea is to try to cut the valve stem just below the guide, but I'm reluctant to jump into this until I get some guidance. If anyone has a technique on stuck valve extraction, I'd love to hear about it.

Thanks,
Greg

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tej
Hey Bob - thanks for the mention - the check's in the mail ;) Try a tie rod splitter to ease the valve removal - the valve will probably bend anyway if its really stuck but it should be a help. Kano Sili-Kroil is one of the best "miracle" looseners - where's my check Kano? >>>> just send it to Bob!

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tej
Greg, I bought my B12 in 1973 with a blown engine. I replaced the rod and crank. The rod had also destroyed some internal governor parts that had to be replaced. One of the ball bearing mains would not come off the crank so I had to cut the old crank off to get it out of the block. I then got one new main for the new crank. To get the ball bearing mains onto the new crank my old Briggs manual said to heat them in motor oil and they would slip right on and it worked.
With the stuck valve I would guess that once you get it out you will have a damaged valve guide. Was this motor still sealed with the head and head gasket in place or was it torn down where the valve stem could have rusted. You may want to soak it with a strong penetrating oil several times and try to work it out gently. Hope you can still get the parts for it. I don't know where you live but here in eastern PA I have a good source for good used Briggs engines cheap. I have a friend that has a Bolens bone-yard. He gave me a Briggs 14hp for the B10 I'm rebuilding. Tim

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Fred
A new crank will go $160 and a rod for $40 plus shipping plus the % of increase for 1999. My price book fizzled out 07/01/99 and my new one isn't here yet. Figure a 5% increase, Briggs is not bashful. An undersize rod is slightly more. Fred is right about scoring however sometimes aluminun just frets to rod and comes of cleanly. I have lucked out a few times and I am not implying this is your case, but it is worth checking out. Either way a ground crank is cheaper than a new one.

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Fred
Greg, bore the cylinder. It's worth it. I have seen many engines not last long after a rebuild because they went the cheap route and not bore them out. The cylinders on these cast iron singles ware in the middle from the trust load. When you put them back together with an out of round cylinder or a bore larger in the middle than on the ends, the new rings usually don't seal at best and/or worst lose a piston skirt or rod. A good overhaul will last.

MS

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AdamF
Greg, I had the crank in my 16 reground 2 years ago. The local NAPA here in Circleville sent it out and it only cost me $37. Make sure you bore the block-the cheap route isnt the cheapest in the long run. Also when ordering parts order a wrist pin, the piston comes with rings does not come with a wrist pin. For the price I paid ($85) you would think that Briggs could have included one.
AdamF

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tej
Thanks guys. Bob you were close, it's a 326431. Jeff, I thought of the tie rod splitter, since I was using it to lift the valve springs to remove the keepers. It worked pretty good for that. But I didn't use it for the valve because, 1, I didn't have enough clearance under the valve (could only get it to move less than 1/16" up) and 2, I was afraid of damaging the valve seat. But it's all a moot point now. It only took 1 day of penetrating oil, and it came out last night. So now the engine's completely apart. The next question is...

Is there any way to safely (no damage to crank journal) and cost effectively remove the aluminum build up on the crank journal? I figure a machine shop will charge $75 to $100, if they can even do it. I've not priced any yet, but people are telling me a new crank is in the same ballpark.

Also, I've been advised by a couple of small engine shops locally to not bother boring the cylinder, unless it's not round. They suggest using chrome rings instead to take up any piston slack if the cylinder is up to 3 or 4 thousanths oversized, since they claim bored engines don't last very long. They have also suggested using that ball honer, the one with the balls of abrasive on the ends of wires, to clean up the cylinder and add a cross hatch.

Anyone have any comments on this?

Thanks,
Greg

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Fred
Greg, be advised that there are NO Briggs cast iron short blocks available from the factory. Nor will there be. The only possibility is to find one in stock at a dealer or distributor (very unlikely). There are a few new 16s, and possibly others, left at various places. Most are "xxxxx1" (rope start) versions (suitable for an application using a 'starterator').
Just go ahead and have the crank ground undersize (if you secure an undersize rod FIRST), or have it metal-sprayed and reground to standard (if you secure a standard rod FIRST). Just removing the aluminum will not likely be enough; the crank probably scored on the way to throwing the rod.
Sorry to be a dark cloud.
Fred

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Al
I agree with Adam, overhauling one of these engines without boring is like pouring money down the drain. Rings can't compensate for wear in the cylinder. Also check the main bearings for wear with the crank in. Use a dial indicator. We learned this lesson the hard way several years ago. We had an old 16 brs that the cam was worn on and it was coming back and we would reset the points and sometimes it woild run fine and other times not. We pulled the engine and put a new Brs coil with the magnatron in it, and got rid of the points, another shop had "overhauled" the engine a couple of years before. It still didn't run right. Even with the electronic ign it was tempramental. We discovered that the crank would move up and down about about .015, worn brgs. New brgs fixed it. The gap at the coil was then consistant. This sas a "real Bi___" to find, as you take for granted an "overhaul" meant overhaul. and so when you put on the electronic, you set the coil air gap and assumed it would be constant. We spent a lot of time finding this and had the traactor back from the customer several times doing so. It was bored and the crank ground, so all we ended up doing was replace the bearings and it was then "overhauled". When you are paying people and eating shop labor these things stay in your mind. You should not be able to measure .001 at the bearing. Hope this saves you some grief. Good luck, AL

P.S. Also check tahe valve guides bushings don't cost that much and it is a lot cheaper and easier to fix it while it is apart.

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