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the_dakotan

1600343 30" Tiller on a Broadmoor 728

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the_dakotan

Just got my hands on a new/old stock Simplicity 1600343 30" Tiller for my 728 Broadmoor. Tines still have the original, fully intact paint. According to this site it needs a Kit #103283, which I assume is the difference in the lift rods between the 1600343 (One Piece Round Stock Rod) and the original tiller for the 728 990628 (Two Piece Flat Stock Rod). Which lift rod am I supposed to get my hands on, or will either one work? Anything else I should know about putting this tiller on that tractor? Thanks.

1600343 Lift Rod.jpg

990628 Lift Rod.jpg

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dhoadley

I have no experience with your specific question, but do have several older Broadmoors (small-frame). The tractors changed very little over the run and either lift arm should work fine. You may consider getting a length of threaded rod and making your own. Good luck, Dave

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SmilinSam

Parts # 1, 2, 3, 5, and 8 from the top drawing are the ones commonly missing from these tillers when you find them, along with the belt pulley and belt stops that goes on the transmission . I have had several over the years, and currently use one on a 5010 Simplicity.

Either rod will work fine.

The rods are easy to make if you have a torch to heat the rod up to make the bends and a threader to cut the threads in the one end.

The hitches are hard to come by, however there is 1 on Ebay right now...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Simplicity-Attachment-Hitch-123096-NLA-for-tiller-vacuum-and-more/382380265043?epid=1428393410&hash=item5907a3ce53:g:QcIAAOSwn9VagwLr

The one big drawback to the tiller is that the tractors dont have live power. That means that when you step on the clutch the tiller stops. They are also worthless for tilling sod or hard ground. The tiller just propels the tractor through the garden at "warp speed" through such dirt.

What they are great for is tilling dirt that has been already broken up in existing gardens. Till in the spring and again in the fall and it works great. I use mine for tilling between the garden rows all summer. Its narrow width make this and exellent tool for that job.

 

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the_dakotan
On 4/7/2018 at 6:57 AM, SmilinSam said:

Parts # 1, 2, 3, 5, and 8 from the top drawing are the ones commonly missing from these tillers when you find them, along with the belt pulley and belt stops that goes on the transmission . I have had several over the years, and currently use one on a 5010 Simplicity.

Either rod will work fine.

The rods are easy to make if you have a torch to heat the rod up to make the bends and a threader to cut the threads in the one end.

The hitches are hard to come by, however there is 1 on Ebay right now...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Simplicity-Attachment-Hitch-123096-NLA-for-tiller-vacuum-and-more/382380265043?epid=1428393410&hash=item5907a3ce53:g:QcIAAOSwn9VagwLr

The one big drawback to the tiller is that the tractors dont have live power. That means that when you step on the clutch the tiller stops. They are also worthless for tilling sod or hard ground. The tiller just propels the tractor through the garden at "warp speed" through such dirt.

What they are great for is tilling dirt that has been already broken up in existing gardens. Till in the spring and again in the fall and it works great. I use mine for tilling between the garden rows all summer. Its narrow width make this and exellent tool for that job.

 

Would you be willing to take some photos and measurements on the length and angles to make one? Thanks.

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SmilinSam

Sure can, but it will be sometime next week before I get that tractor dragged out to work on.Will post the pics and info back here when I get there....

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TomSchmit

Jace - I have a used hitch piece that I would sell for $30, which is cheaper than the time and effort you would put into making one! 

Tom in Milwaukee

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the_dakotan
55 minutes ago, TomSchmit said:

Jace - I have a used hitch piece that I would sell for $30, which is cheaper than the time and effort you would put into making one! 

Tom in Milwaukee

My tractor has the hitch. I need a lift rod. If you got one of those I'd be interested. Thanks.

Jace

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SmilinSam

medium.DSCN1553.JPG.147b7c519fbc64420765

The curved  end on the right goes on the end  of your lift handle, at least it does on my 5010( same as a  738 basically) This end tapers down from the 1/2" diameter the rest of the rod is to around 7/16" .

 On the far left end there is a lock collar that fits on the 1/2" diameter rod, this keeps the slide next to it from coming off the rod when you lift the tiller. Its basicall the smae kind of slide you will find on a spring loaded lift rod for Soveriegn style snowblowers or Dozer blades. Its basically a piece of rod that is bent at a right angle and welded to a piece of heavy wall pipe with a big enough ID for the rod to easily slide through. That slide pins to  hole the tiller lift bracket.

The overall lenth of this particular rod is 30 1/4" end to end. The rod is laying flat on the concrete. As you see it in relation to the end on the right you will notice a slight bend in the rod at 2 points, each about 10" in from each end. This bend puts the collared end of the rod about 5/8" out of line with the front part of the rod.

I cant tell you whether this rod is a oem rod for the tiller or a snowblade rod that I cut down. I dont remember. CRS is getting to be commonplace with me, way beyond the normal joking status. In any case, you may not have to put much of a bend in a rod at all. Lots of room under the fender between the wheel and the tractor chassis above the  axle where this goes.

Edited by SmilinSam

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the_dakotan
18 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

medium.DSCN1553.JPG.147b7c519fbc64420765

The curved  end on the right goes on the end  of your lift handle, at least it does on my 5010( same as a  738 basically) This end tapers down from the 1/2" diameter the rest of the rod is to around 7/16" .

 On the far left end there is a lock collar that fits on the 1/2" diameter rod, this keeps the slide next to it from coming off the rod when you lift the tiller. Its basicall the smae kind of slide you will find on a spring loaded lift rod for Soveriegn style snowblowers or Dozer blades. Its basically a piece of rod that is bent at a right angle and welded to a piece of heavy wall pipe with a big enough ID for the rod to easily slide through. That slide pins to  hole the tiller lift bracket.

The overall lenth of this particular rod is 30 1/4" end to end. The rod is laying flat on the concrete. As you see it in relation to the end on the right you will notice a slight bend in the rod at 2 points, each about 10" in from each end. This bend puts the collared end of the rod about 5/8" out of line with the front part of the rod.

I cant tell you whether this rod is a oem rod for the tiller or a snowblade rod that I cut down. I dont remember. CRS is getting to be commonplace with me, way beyond the normal joking status. In any case, you may not have to put much of a bend in a rod at all. Lots of room under the fender between the wheel and the tractor chassis above the  axle where this goes.

So yours doesn't have the bend like in the photo? Is that a major deal? I have every part except the Lift Rod.

1600343 Circled Bend.jpg

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SmilinSam

Nope. Mine is bent ever so slightly just as you see it in the photo. Been using it that way for several years now with no problems.  All the rod has to do is clear the axle and clear the transmission drive pulley. That, and be long enough to have some adjustment for how high the tiller lifts. I'll see about getting some more pictures of everything on the tractor.

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SmilinSam

Heres why it needs the bend I'm guessing...which says this isnt a original rod.

medium.DSCN1567.JPG.6eb015cfec32cd849c69

With the tiller raised  this rod is just about touching the fender.   If you make the rod a little long to start with, attach the end to your lift lever and lock the lever in raised position your spot to put the bend should be right under the edge of the fender. Just enough bend to give fender clearance, but not too much so the rod may hit the axle when the tiller is lowered. When you get the bend right, then you can cut the rod to length.

medium.DSCN1565.JPG.179905d2d9a89d9d36d1

Plenty of room side to side.. Probably no need for bends that way. Dont know why mine is bent that way.

Thats about all the help I can be apparently...

Edited by SmilinSam

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