Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Simp-all68

AC 716 to 7116 engine swap

Recommended Posts

Simp-all68

Bought an AC 716 with lawn rejuvenator (in good shape) 3 tillers ( I think 1 good to be made of) Front blade( needing work) . Runs great and lift worked great but sheet metal was bad. Not dented but rusted through in many areas. Then I came across a 7116 with a bad Briggs , but good evening else including 48 inch deck and Ag tires. New Kevlar belts and spindals. Originally got it for the deck but decided the  tractor was so much more solid that switching the engine made since . Looked around and asked around but couldn’t find info on how difficult it would be.

51CAF79A-8B4E-45CB-9194-6B41E2F887F0.jpeg

6B8EA727-362F-40E1-8CE0-10382019A21D.jpeg

1F44DDCA-26C8-4E62-B420-3EA6F7BD3441.jpeg

EAF08056-59BE-4D36-8F55-9CE2C689B3A7.jpeg

28277651-0C42-457E-862C-4E9AE8D91927.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SmilinSam

Its actually pretty easy all in all, especially if you already have done some wrenching and parts swapping on these tractors

The Kohler will bolt right into the Briggs footprint. You will have to use the keyswitch from the 716 , and just duplicte the wiring into the 7116, or just transfer the whole 716 harness over. You may or may not have to lengthen some of the wires out to the engine. Reason for the wiring swap is that the Biggs is magneto iginition and the Kohler is Battery ignition, and the connections and what they do are different

The 716 driveshaft will be too short, so you will have to use the 7116 driveshaft.  Make sure and loosen the driveshaft at the bevel gear box  so it will slide back and forth a little. You may have a rubber coupler with the 7116, or maybe not.  You will have to see where the driveshaft sits once the Kohler is in place.. If you are lucky it will go right in without a problem.

Never seen a 7116 where the exaust exits through the side of the hood like  the older 7000/700 series, but that benefits you in that you will not have to do any creative muffler building. All you should have to do is get the muffler tiurned and clamped in to blow out through the hole.

If you get into trouble through the course of the swap just post specific question back here.

I'm getting ready to transfer a 16 Kohler from a 716 to a  Briggs powered 3310 chasis myself.

Edited by SmilinSam
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Simp-all68

Yes to almost all you said! I guess I wasn’t specific enough. Already made the switch. The exhaust did exit out the frame on the other side. I paid for some help with the wiring. That scared me.but thought it would (and did) require changing the wiring harness and ignition switch. Cut the hole for exhaust. What the heck had all the parts! Going to gather rebuild parts and eventually rebuild the Briggs. Supposedly a bad cam not triggering the decompression but lot of oil all over the front of the tractor. Then I’ll have a back up ready to go and a back up hydro 😁. Just wanted to put this out in case others were like I was , wondering how difficult it would be. A lot of small engine mechanics don’t understand the Simplicity drive shaft configuration and when I asked questions they were stuck on shaft size. I had figured that to simplify production the two would mount at least similarly. Can’t  wait to get on to building a tiller, repairing a dozer blade and of course trying/using them all. Thanks for the comments Sam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave

Decompression on a Briggs is only valve adjustment. Likely have to grind the intake valve and seat then readjust tapped clearance.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×