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nitsuj.stauder

Replacement eyebolt for AC 912H 42in deck

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nitsuj.stauder

Looking for some ideas on what to replace a broken eyebolt with as i can't find one available anywhere online. I took apart my mowing deck this spring for the first time since owning the tractor to give it a good cleaning and when disassembling, the eye bolt used to raise and lower the deck snapped as the nut was rusted on. I tried to replace with an eyebolt from the hardware store which works, but with the "large" eye i am loosing height when i raise the deck so it isn't getting as high with the original. The part number i'm looking at is 2171815SM. Anybody have any laying around or can whip one up to spec?

Thanks,

JS

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MARK (LI)

Can you show a picture of it?...I don't think you will find an original....can you heat up a regular bolt enough to bend it to the shape you need?

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equipment guy

I am not familiar with your set-up in particular, but if it is similar to the powermax series, you could stand a nut on edge on top of a appropriate length bolt, and weld it together.  Then you can grind, and drill to the correct dimensions.  Use high grade hardware, and chances are it will not break again.

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GregB

Looks like this, some were more rounded at the top end it think.
5b055892745dd_eyeboltCapture.JPG.59d782bd564f8f01fe197f0a8c17c2a0.JPG

Maybe someone has a bucket of parts from stripping down a shot deck.

Put an advert in the classifieds.

Edited by GregB

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TimJr

I can't believe that they let that part go obsolete.  That sucks.  I find it hard to believe it wasn't a steady seller.  Those things like to rust up and break when you disassemble the deck to service the idler arm.  If someone from Simplicity sees this, PLEASE bring that part back.  If I had known it was being obsoleted, I would have bought a couple of spares for my decks - they are bound to break at some point....

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Chris727
5 minutes ago, TimJr said:

I can't believe that they let that part go obsolete.  That sucks.  I find it hard to believe it wasn't a steady seller.  Those things like to rust up and break when you disassemble the deck to service the idler arm.  If someone from Simplicity sees this, PLEASE bring that part back.  If I had known it was being obsoleted, I would have bought a couple of spares for my decks - they are bound to break at some point....

Very common failure part. I usually heat them up, straighten them, run a die over them and fix the threads, if they are savable. 

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Chris727
14 hours ago, GregB said:

Looks like this, some were more rounded at the top end it think.
5b055892745dd_eyeboltCapture.JPG.59d782bd564f8f01fe197f0a8c17c2a0.JPG

Maybe someone has a bucket of parts from stripping down a shot deck.

Put an advert in the classifieds.

This was the newer "heavier" improved version. 

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DaveBsACs

all of the above, whatever you can fab.I have a 50/50 ratio on breakage whenever I need to disassemble , I always use Kroil for several days if possible and then some heat when in doubt. lucked out on the last few and was able to get apart, beadblast , paint and then use plenty of grease on assembly.

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ShaunE
On 5/23/2018 at 10:00 PM, DaveBsACs said:

I always use Kroil for several days

I'm a HUGE fan of Kroil & Heat.

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wwbragg

Make one.  Screw a cable fitting onto a double threaded stud.  Or maybe better yet, use one of the ends from an old lift cable - - - - -

cable.jpg

Edited by wwbragg
Add picture

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Tom45

Have you tried calling Brenda at Sandy Lakes Implement?  Several times she can get the part when Jacks shows it as obsolete.  

 

 

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Bruces’ Small Engine/Auto

I just bought a new eyebolt Allis  Chalmers 712H part # 2171815SM FOR $10.20 from Sandy Lake Implements. Spoke to Brenda and it is being shipped. 

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the summoner666
On 5/27/2018 at 4:21 PM, PhanDad said:

I only have 2 left...

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Brettw

Depending upon the deck, the idler pulley pivots on some of those.  The eye bolt and bushing, etc. all need to be correct factory parts and move freely.

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AC710
2 hours ago, Brettw said:

Depending upon the deck, the idler pulley pivots on some of those.  The eye bolt and bushing, etc. all need to be correct factory parts and move freely.

The obsolete part number originally posted is one of these pivot bolts, but it is still just a 3/8" eye bolt with a flat shoulder to lock on the bushing. The Grainger bolts I mentioned come in different lengths and can be adjusted to the right offset with washers, bushings and/or nuts like this pic. (I don't have a grainger bolt but you can get the idea.)

Be sure the bushing inside the idler bracket is loose - this one was rusted tight and needed soaking and persuasion to free up.

 

Inked20190927_160650_resized_LI.jpg

Edited by AC710
better photo

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