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kelly88

ISO clutch 5218-39 for Agco Allis 1692460

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kelly88

Well, the clutch I installed last yr. is no good now.  It lasted a yr!  I guess it is loosing voltage somewhere but I can't trace down the problem.  So my question for now is .... can I find another clutch under $270.00 that will work?  I know the last 2 clutches were Warner #5218-39, which I know is the correct clutch.  The last one had CMS on it & this one had CMSS on it.  Since the PO rewired it (loosely) I will need to check the plugs & grounds further, but first I need to find another clutch.  I am thinking of the Xtreme for the above price, but I would like to know if any of you have used other #'s & they work.

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PhanDad

Sometimes folks with the newer tractors have problems with a poor ground since the ground is usually through an interlock module vs straight to ground.  The IM messes up and causes a voltage drop on the ground side and the electric clutches don't like that.  Usually if an item is low in voltage it increases the amp draw to get the same power and the resulting extra heat, in time, ruins the item.  

You could try taking the ground side of the directly to ground and see how it responds.  If it works OK, add a relay to cut the ground  when the starter is engaged.  That achieves the basic safety feature of older tractors like my Homelite T-12 (tractor won't start if electric PTO switch is on.  Once the engine's running, it's up to the operator to "be safe". 

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kwt

I'm impressed that the electric PTO on my 73 T-16H that has been in continuous service, has never given me a lick of trouble.

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kelly88

PhanDad, Yes I believe the PO rewired it similar, I don't find a relay.  It is ground directly to the body with one of the 2 wires coming from the back of clutch, the other wire goes to the pto toggle switch (not original).  This toggle is wired to battery on one side and clutch on other.  I do believe it starts with the clutch engaged.  The 'nanny' switch is unplugged (if it works at all), so the pto is still engaged while off the tractor once it is running.  The wiring is a mess and I have tried sanding the body where the clutch wire bolts to for a better ground.  I read where the wire connectors may be stainless & not make a good connection, so I guess I should replace some of those since those are just pushed into the clutch harness plug.  I assume the interlock module is bypassed but have been unable to locate it yet.  I have watched the voltage meter go down as I mow, the guage showing between 11 - 12.  I usually stop at that point and charge the battery overnight.  This was a new battery also but it runs it down.  The 2 PO's ran out of patience and I am getting there as well.  I have 3 acres to mow & with all this rain am mowing twice a week!  This is a 1994 model, and I looked at a 1997 last week that the wiring was somewhat different.  The owner had mowed an acre for 12 yrs. and never replaced the clutch.  My wiring diagram & parts manual doesn't show a relay, what do I order??   BTW,  Brettw - this has the older round clutch that is not adjustable, not the triangle mount.  The one on craigs list was the triangle mount & it will not work on mine.  That would have been a great price.  Thank you though, any help is appreciated.

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PhanDad
2 hours ago, kelly88 said:

I have watched the voltage meter go down as I mow, the guage showing between 11 - 12.

If the voltage is dropping when mowing, then the alternator must not be charging the battery.  Battery voltage during charging should be 13.6v or higher (about 14.5v max).  This could be part of your problem.

Have you checked the voltage at the clutch harness plug?  Both the +12v side and the "ground side"?  First I'd check without the tractor running.  Since there's no interlocks in the circuit any more, the +12v side should read the same as the battery +12v post.  (fully charge battery should be about 12.6v)  The voltage on the "ground" side should be zero.  If not, there's resistance somewhere (sometimes in the newer tractors, the "ground to frame" isn't so good since with all the wiring in place, there's usually a wire path back to ground rather than thru the frame.   

If the non running voltages check out OK, I'd run leads from the harness plug back to the dash area so you could check them when running.  And see if the input voltage drops or "ground" voltage increases with run time.

 

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kelly88
On 6/4/2018 at 6:00 PM, PhanDad said:

Have you checked the voltage at the clutch harness plug?

There is only 1 wire coming from the pto toggle & I push it into the clutch harness plug (which is attached to the clutch I removed), the other short wire I push into that plug is bolted to body.  I did try to check the voltage at the wire end with "0",  the battery is about 12.8.  I am afraid this is over my head, I am not very familiar with voltage and this wiring is a mess, so I am taking it to a man who is very familiar with kohler engines and has a tool to check the rectifier, which he claims are prone to go out on these.  He previously replaced the oil seal on the flywheel side of this same engine.  I hope this will be the fix and not the stator.  I will keep you posted.

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