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kwt

Bought a 3112V

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kwt

Again I apologize for the pic quality.

The engine is a replacement 16hp cast iron Briggs made Nov 11th, 1981. Very clean, and I didn't know they still made the big cast iron Briggs in 81. OEM Nelson can is in good condition. Steel gas tank doesn't leak. It looks like the original gas cap. The clear plastic is very yellowed. It appears that this was always garage stored. Headlights are not OEM, but some old General electric seal beams with a rubber foam housing.  Came with a 42" deck and belt that appears to be in very good condition. New battery and fuel lines. Everything works. I bought it from the guy that bought it from the original owner. He had it for 12 years and used it once in a while to grade his shared 700' driveway. The neighbor bought a New Holland a couple years ago and it took over the duties. This was taking up space. 

The bad. It has quite a bit of gear lash in the bevel gear box. Far more than my other ones. End play is good, and it rolls smooth. You guys think this is gear wear? I used to think that they used straight cut gears and you could "just" shim them to a closer mesh. I'm not so sure about doing that with hypoid gears. I wonder if I should open it up and try to save it, or run it till it drops. I don't know how common these will be when it finally dies, and it is my understanding that different tractors used different shafts.

 

0603181039.jpg

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ShaunE

I'd open it up now.  If the gears are good then you saved them by default.  At least pull the cover off & look with a mirror.

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PhanDad

Usually the gears don't wear, the "normal" cause of lash is a worn key if you're lucky:

IMG_9450.thumb.JPG.2fe2a1be3d24008331ff4483343a71da.JPG

And probably if the key is in that bad of shape, you're a little lucky if you find just shaft damage:

IMG_9451.thumb.JPG.54ad2175087c08b3e591b0b17c13d09f.JPG

IMG_9452.thumb.JPG.40f67bc241e5129b335e6bf7d6957364.JPG

Unlucky is gear keyway damage:

IMG_9447.thumb.JPG.71944668a2e3b67ca8d944458a86d8da.JPG

If just the key way is damaged, you can have a keyway cut 180 deg and salvage the shaft.  If it's worn as was the case with the pictured shaft, you'll need a new shaft.  And if the gear keyway is damaged, a new gear too.

The BGB that the above parts were in had significant lash, but ran quiet.  

Hopefully you'll be lucky.

 

 

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kwt

I've bedded a rifle or two. I wonder what a new key, some release agent, and a dab of the strongest JB weld would do with that gear and shaft.

 

Thanks gents for the motivation to investigate. I keep reading that it ain't worth rebuilding these boxes, but I'm not a guy that let's stuff go unless it's foolish to.

 

It rained last night, so driveway was gradable. Guess what I did. I've actually operated a modern road grader. If you have too, you'll miss some of their capabilities. 

 

I ended up pulling the carb and cleaning it, as a lean condition couldn't be adjusted out. I'm thinking that the carb had never been serviced because the deep gray paint (same as the engine color) comes right off with carb cleaner. Drained the gas tank to make sure that wasn't a problem, and although the fuel looked great, I put fresh REC gas in it. I freaking hate alcohol in any small engine in any amounts and I have no idea what the previous owner's thoughts were on the subject.

 

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Chris727

Nice find. I believe the Cast-Iron Briggs are still produced in China for sale in a few countries. They cannot be imported to the US because they do not meet emissions standards. 

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wwbragg
On ‎6‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 3:30 PM, PhanDad said:

if the gear keyway is damaged

If you can cut another keyway on the shaft at 180, why can't you cut a new groove in the gear as well?? If we are worried about weakening the gear, you could weld up the old slot and re-bore the shaft surface.  For that matter, even the shaft can be repaired.

I had a 65 mustang in college and the tranny went out. Where the rear shaft fit into the front shaft I found a knarled and pitted surface.  The guy at the machine shop filled the divots with stainless welding material and reground the shaft.  She ran fine.

 

P.S.  By the way Kevin, nice haul.  But can anybody tell me why the 3112V is red when everything else is orange???  I have one just like it and it is red also.

 

Edited by wwbragg
add PS

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