kt17 17GTH L UPSKIRT PICS wow

[fishnwiz 3,289]

Well I shot a couple of upskirt shots of my new mistresses underside. When the engine ran a few days ago it was NOT blowing oil thru the exhaust but excessive oil was seeping out around the  fuel pump area and around the spark plugs. I pulled the tins today and there was a lot of oil build up  around the TOP portion of the cylinders and engine . Guess I will need to pull the heads and take a peak. It does NOT appear the main crank seal is the culprit but the oil does swirl around with the tins on and could draw oil to the top of the engine, The breather is the newer button type...do these fail? Seems to be a pretty straight forward system though it did seem to have excessive oil pressure.  There was a lot of oil near the breather cover the fuel pump gasket as well as the valve spring cover.  Damm them engines are HEAVY 

What do the experts think?   Not much to go by I know but I am looking for input. Thanks

Edited June 11, 2018 by fishnwiz

[SimpleOrange 154]

An engine that dirty with the cooling fins filled with crap is more than likely going to have serious internal carbon ( Coke )  issues. Carbon builds up in behind the piston rings causing them to stick n the ring grooves which leads to premature wear.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

Can't believe that they ran this tractor that long with a leak that bad. A guy would need to refill the oil after 10 min run time. The fins were surprisingly clean over 95 percent of the jugs. They seemed to be plugged in the top portion near the breather  and the valve spring access area and only in a small area. Hopefully engine is fixable but not holding my breath.  It ran like a top other than oIL leak.

Edited June 10, 2018 by fishnwiz

[Brettw 1,019]

Mark, The button type is the old style, the new is a steel reed valve.  If the button is intact and soft, I think you are fine/  I have to say, if I could swing one, it would be worth it to have a good steam cleaner, like a Hotsy.  Where all the runoff goes is an issue too though.  But that would sure make cleaning up these old tractors a walk in the park compared to all the scraping, and cleaning. 

Edited June 11, 2018 by Brettw

[ShaunE 1,195]

I run hot water through my pressure washer after spraying with degreaser. Steam cleaner would be the hot ticket but my routine works well for me. 

If you test run that engine on a bench or hanging from a hoist, you should be able to spot the culprit before re-installing it.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

8 hours ago, Brettw said:

Mark, The button type is the old style, the new is a steel reed valve.  If the button is intact and soft, I think you are fine/  I have to say, if I could swing one, it would be worth it to have a good steam cleaner, like a Hotsy.  Where all the runoff goes is an issue too though.  But that would sure make cleaning up these old tractors a walk in the park compared to all the scraping, and cleaning. 

My mistake,  I thought the reed was the old style. A guy would think he should remember that the reed type is the newer type after I just did one last year?

. I have a reed to install ....Hopefully that's my issue but that would be WAY too easy. 

I have the gunk removed and engine tins and fins all cleaned.

Fingers crossed. 

Edited June 11, 2018 by fishnwiz

[MikeES 417]

Sure looks like flywheel side crank seal to me.  But a bad breather could be building too much pressure in the crankcase and pushing it out that seal.  Usually  it is the PTO seal that gets pushed out.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

Will check that....there seemed to be little  oil beneath the flywheel area but can't see in there too good..

Edited June 12, 2018 by fishnwiz

[fishnwiz 3,289]

17 hours ago, MikeES said:

Sure looks like flywheel side crank seal to me.  But a bad breather could be building too much pressure in the crankcase and pushing it out that seal.  Usually  it is the PTO seal that gets pushed out.

Mike

You appear to be correct in your diagnosis of pto side seal. Oil is poring out and hitting the flywheel and flung up into the tins and leaking down off top of the engine. 

I did watch a few videos on doing this replacement but anyone here have any tips of suggestions on doing the pto side seal?

[Simplicity725 15]

22 hours ago, fishnwiz said:

Can't believe that they ran this tractor that long with a leak that bad. A guy would need to refill the oil after 10 min run time. The fins were surprisingly clean over 95 percent of the jugs. They seemed to be plugged in the top portion near the breather  and the valve spring access area and only in a small area. Hopefully engine is fixable but not holding my breath.  It ran like a top other than oIL leak.

A 7119 came in my shop last month with a blown up series II KT19. The guy said he had to put in a quart of oil every time he mowed his lawn because the rings were toast and it smoked more than Lindsay Lohan. One time he forgot to refill the oil and BANG threw both rods and chewed the crank journals to hell.

[oldsarge 49]

Lindsay Lohan used to be SMOKIN, not so much anymore........................................................................................................gtm

[fishnwiz 3,289]

37 minutes ago, oldsarge said:

Lindsay Lohan used to be SMOKIN, not so much anymore........................................................................................................gtm

Kinda like Terry Garr

[fishnwiz 3,289]

Well it CAN"T possibly be this easy can it?  I pulled the engine and ppulled the flywheel and there half way down the shaft the seal is sitting. That explains the severe oil leak!

Mike gets the gold star for guessing EXACTLY what my issue was.

Edited June 12, 2018 by fishnwiz

[AC716 546]

Be very careful cleaning the charger coils. Mess up the varnish it will be toast.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

Next issue is spring placement on throttle side...anyone tell me which holes to use...I did NOT take a pic before I removed it??

[PhanDad 3,251]

3 minutes ago, fishnwiz said:

 

Well it CAN"T possibly be this easy can it?

 

Sometimes you get lucky.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

21 minutes ago, AC716 said:

Be very careful cleaning the charger coils. Mess up the varnish it will be toast.

Thanks...will do

[Simplicity725 15]

1 hour ago, fishnwiz said:

Next issue is spring placement on throttle side...anyone tell me which holes to use...I did NOT take a pic before I removed it??

I usually just go by which ever one is the most "wallered out", since the one used previously would have the most wear. If that doesn't work, just try a few combos with different holes and see what works best.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

13 hours ago, oldsarge said:

9 hours ago, Simplicity725 said:

I usually just go by which ever one is the most "wallered out", since the one used previously would have the most wear. If that doesn't work, just try a few combos with different holes and see what works best.

A person would think I would have payed attention to that detail when I pulled it off?

[GregB 879]

Why did the seal blow out? 

Did you replace the breather vent yet as a precaution?

 

[fishnwiz 3,289]

28 minutes ago, GregB said:

Why did the seal blow out? 

Did you replace the breather vent yet as a precaution?

 

Breather vent has been changed out ..Thanks 

Is there a trick to install and keeping it in place? 

Other seals I have installed have a metal race on them and stay in place.

Edited June 12, 2018 by fishnwiz

[GregB 879]

Most of ones that look like that I have just made sure no burrs on shaft, lightly lube seal/shaft.

 

Then tab in with a piece of pipe, socket, or chunk of 2x4 with the right size hole drilled in it.

There should be a metal stiffener on the OD (with seal material overmolded) to light press fit to the case.

Edited June 12, 2018 by GregB

[fishnwiz 3,289]

You guys use locktite on the seal or any dressing at all?

[ShaunE 1,195]

I do.  I use loctite bearing & seal retainer.

[fishnwiz 3,289]

Thanks Bud!  Much appreciated