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ACT816

Powermax Sundstrand Hydro Bevel Gear Torque??

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ACT816

Sorry if this is covered elsewhere, I did look but didn't find an answer in the repair manual, searching the forums here or just a Google search.  I have a Powermax 9020 with the Sundstrand Series 15 Hydro.  I've pulled the bevel gear facing the transmission off of a "new to me" hydro to confirm the shims.  I've re-installed the gear but can't find a recommended torque value.  Does anyone have what this should be, a rule-of-thumb or other suggestion?

Thanks!

Dave

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Rigger9020

Hey Dave,

Manual doesn’t list specific torque for the bevel gear. But states to use standard torque spec. no. 173209 unless otherwise noted. Page 1-3 list’s recommended torque specifications by SAE grade and size/thread. What size/grade nut is it?

Mike

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ACT816

Mike,

     Thanks, I'm guessing 3/8th grade 5 but will need to confirm.  For gears like this there is sometimes a specific torque vs. the standard torque spec. for pre-load.  I wasn't sure if this was the case or not. 

Thanks,

Dave

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SimpleOrange
2 hours ago, ACT816 said:

Mike,

     Thanks, I'm guessing 3/8th grade 5 but will need to confirm.  For gears like this there is sometimes a specific torque vs. the standard torque spec. for pre-load.  I wasn't sure if this was the case or not. 

Thanks,

Dave

.500"

If your using a taper bearing then yes the correct pre-load is necessary.

 

shim2.png

Edited by SimpleOrange

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ACT816

Thanks guys for the responses and apologize for the delay in response.  I FINALLY got the hydro swapped out this weekend.  I just went with the standard torque as SimpleOrange indicated, doesn't seem after a lot of looking that there's a need for pre-load.  We'll see how it goes.  Initial run-up had good results and cut grass for about 45 minutes or so with no whine (like my original hydro has) after cutting. 

One odd thing I noticed is that the tranny fluid is milky pink.  Note that I change fluid annually so this is a bit of a head scratcher for me.  I'll change out the filter after the next cutting and see how it looks, just to make sure I got everything, I don't trust that pulling the sending unit and draining the elbow actually gets all of the fluid out.  My guess is the cooler loop doesn't drain.

Dave

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SimpleOrange

Pink could be moisture in the oil, to confirm try this.

The Crackle Test utilizes the differences in vapor pressures between lubricant oils and water vapor.  Synthetic or petroleum based lubricants can tolerate high temperatures before vaporizing.  The crackle test utilizes a drop of oil on a hot plate set to 160C, to quickly vaporize the water within the oil (with a boiling point of 100 C).  The outcome is an audible ‘crackle’ when tiny pockets of water vapor escaping the oil drop.  Depending on the number of ‘pops’ heard by the analyst, an estimation of water content can be made.

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