Horvik 20 Posted July 5, 2018 Hello; Am using the good used two bevel gears out of a used BGB to make a completely rebuilt unit. Want opinions of how good used gears hold up against brand new(and expensive) ones. I have it on the bench complete and thought I would ask now, prior to all the work of installation. Tractor is 3416 H Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plastikosmd 870 Posted July 6, 2018 Imho if lash and fit is good they will be fine 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhanDad 3,245 Posted July 6, 2018 49 minutes ago, plastikosmd said: Imho if lash and fit is good they will be fine I agree. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishnwiz 3,288 Posted July 6, 2018 1 hour ago, plastikosmd said: Imho if lash and fit is good they will be fine Ditto 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plastikosmd 870 Posted July 6, 2018 (And key ways/key) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brettw 1,015 Posted July 6, 2018 I actually have a set of used ones that has one gear with a small chip in one tooth that I am loath to get rid of. I can't see using them it there are other options, but if they were shimmed up right I would bet on them before I would dump a boatload on new gears. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenh 35 Posted July 8, 2018 If reusing used gears do not mix and match gears from different BVG's. Always use the original pair if they are in good shape. The gears are mated to each other from use. Ken 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhanDad 3,245 Posted July 8, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, Kenh said: If reusing used gears do not mix and match gears from different BVG's. Always use the original pair if they are in good shape. The gears are mated to each other from use. Ken I've heard that too and I think it's good advice..... I did that on a recent BGB rebuild (used the donor pair even though only the driven shaft gear was damaged). As I was assembling the gearbox, since the removed gears were not "match marked", there was no way to know exactly which teeth to mesh so the gear tooth faces were running against their previous "partners". So...... does it really make a difference with unmarked gears? Edited July 8, 2018 by PhanDad Spelling 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dince 275 Posted July 8, 2018 And what about determining how many/thick the shim washers should be used? I assume they are to cut down the lateral movement of the shaft, but how tight, please? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill725 904 Posted July 9, 2018 I would like to politely say the design of the bevel gear case does not allow for adjusting the gear lash by shimming. The lash is built into the machining of the case and the gears, along with the dimensional stack up of the parts. The input/driver shaft is placed into the case and a clamp plate is used to hold the rear ball bearing and input shaft in place. No shims are used. On the output/driven shaft, the bevel gear is held is position on the left side by a retaining ring on the shaft. On the right side, up against the bevel gear is a ball bearing, an oil seal, then shims. The shims are used to "fill the gap" left between the oil seal and the side plate to prevent the shaft assembly from moving to the right creating unwanted excess gear lash. The Simplicity Large Frame Garden Tractor Service & Repair Manual states "Stack shim pack so that half the thickness of the thicker shim protrudes the bevel gear case housing machined surface." 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites