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3112V questions


steve-wis

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Hello everyone!

Started working on the 3112V project today.  Got the bad tranny with really bad vari-drive pulley changed, replaced with one from a 3212V.  I think I should put a new belt on it, it is part number 164080.  Anyone have a source?  Jacks has them for $70, hoping for a bit cheaper if possible.  Second, the gas tank is rusty and I want to line it, what product is everyone using?  And finally, there is a part, looks like an insulator, with wires hooked  to it, and it should be connected to the top screw of the points box.  It is broken off, but the wires are still hooked to it.  What is this, and can it be replaced?  I am attaching pics of the wire thing.

Thanks for any help!

Steve

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Steve,

I know that if you touch that wire to ground or chassis it will kill the engine, like turning off the switch.  I just put electrical tape around mine so it doesn't short and it has been fine for years.

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That insulator tab is a “tie-point” for the engine magneto “kill” wire from the ignition switch. 

U can tape it all up as suggested above or get a piece of mica insulator board and make a replacement to bolt to the points cover.  

Can’t help with other questions.

 

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Steve, I’ve used Kreem sourced from a motorcycle shop. If you can get the tank cleaned out this really works. I’ve got 2 that are going on 12+ yrs use. Only failure was a tank I didn’t get shiny inside. There is a Kreem kit that invludes acid to etch & clean as well. 

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I use pool acid (muriatic) to clean the tank inside. Then baking soda solution to rinse and neutralize the acid and hot water for final rinse. Then Red-Kote tank liner and sealer. You can get the Red-Kote on Ebay or at O'Reilly Auto stores and probably Amazon. The Red-Kote will seal even pin hole leaks and a quart will do many small tanks because you can pour it back in the can after sloshing it around in the tank. 

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2 minutes ago, Richard Wright said:

will seal even pin hole leaks

As will POR-15.  The kit comes with a degreaser and a metal prep which converts the iron-oxide (rust) and leaves a zinc phosphate coating for better paint adhesion. 

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Thanks for all the replies!  The gas tank does not leak, it is just rusty and I wanted to eliminate the rust flaking off and plugging the system.  After cleaning the tank well, I think I am going to put it in as it is and see what happens.  I taped up the wires and it does start and run so I will work on getting that insulator down the road.  Also, the belt will work for a while as I continue fixing up the tractor.  Since I got the tranny swapped and the tank re-installed with new shut off and filter, I have found that the carb will need to be torn down and cleaned, gas pours out of it when the shut off is opened, assume float stuck.  Also, I have 90 wt. gear oil spots on the floor, decent sized.  I don't know yet if this is from the tranny laying upside down in storage, or if I have leaks to deal with.  One thing at a time, I guess.  The carb is the next step, once that is fixed I will take some pics on what it looks like and post them.

Thanks again!

Steve

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Not sure of the bevel angle, width or length,  but if you have that information I wonder if a snowmobile belt would work?  Same principle and probably cheaper?  

Edited by Brettw
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