Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
ckc72r

Simplicity 7010 dragged out of a garage

Recommended Posts

ckc72r

Picked up a 7010 the other day for $100. Was told it had been sitting for three years. Don’t know too much about it. It had about zero oil in it, so I topped it up, threw in a good battery I had from another tractor and got it to turn over. Changed the plug (not even sure if it’s the right one or gaped correctly) and threw some carb cleaner down in it. The gas tank was clean (they had drained it to my great surprise) so I threw some gas in it. Got it to run for about 30sec then it will die. Also will only idle, will die if I try and increase the throttle. Going to get a new air filter and get the carb cleaned before I run it again. Anyone have any other ideas to get it back to running consistently? I didn’t even take the time to look at what engine is in it. Just started trying to get spark fuel etc...Finally what is the easiest way to compression test these engines and what do I need? Never done it before. Thank you for your time.

Kyle

BE338FF8-E3AF-4046-B494-FDDD31642E6F.jpeg

EF94AD72-F044-40B6-966C-65F01F8EDEAB.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad
43 minutes ago, ckc72r said:

I didn’t even take the time to look at what engine is in it.

Based on the S/G on the right side of the engine in your last pic, it's a Briggs cast iron single cylinder engine.  They are pretty much bullet proof if the oil managed well (kept topped off and changed regularly).  

I'm guessing a good carb cleaning (maybe a large dose of SeaFoam might do the trick) and you'll be good to go.  Be careful with the emulsion tube if you remove it.  I believe they're easy to mess up and the casting can be damaged.  If you search for other posts on the site about carbs, you'll find some folks are having success with the cheap "China" replacement carbs.  

And you got a GREAT deal on the tractor package.  Did the idler pulley setup come with the tiller?

Welcome to the club.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SimpleOrange

Welcome to the forum Kyle, I believe many of the forum ,member's who are able to answer your questions will be attending a swap meet in Portage over the weekend.

Ethanol blended gasoline is a carburettor killer, from what your description of how the engine runs by only idling I would start with there. I've used paint remover to dunk the parts in with great success. 

What colour is the spark your getting at the plug gap, should be blue, orange indicates a weak condenser.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dhoadley

I have used an ultra-sonic cleaner with great success with carbs. I used to use a small one my wife had for cleaning jewelry, but it was kinda small (and she'd get kinda mad) so I got a larger one from Harbor Freight for cheap ($70-80?). Good luck, Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
tadams

I have had good luck with the fuel additive, put it in the fuel and try starting to get the fuel additive into the carb, if it didn't start and run right leave it set over night the additive will soak into the slug in the carb and alot of the time the next day when you start it will run.

Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
deebig

drop the bowl on carburetor and clean all jets with air and a fine wire. I bought a chinese carburetor and it worked fine for awhile then the plastic float and needle would not shut gas off. I took the brass float,needle and seat off old carb and put them in the china carb. all is good now. They are EXACT copies.

Edited by deebig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES

Briggs has a procedure for checking compression by hand spinning the flywheel backwards, and not being able to spin pass compression.  But this is impossible to do with the engine connected up and in the tractor.

Because the starter spins the engine, and it runs...with a warm engine connect a standard compression tester in the spark plug hole, spin the engine with the throttle wide open until you don't see the tester needle move anymore.

I don't have any experience with the 10hp, but with the 30 and 32ci engines a compression of 110 psi or more is very good, and at the low end 60 psi is about the lower limit and still have a starting/running engine.  Below 60 they become very hard to start, and can be hard to accelerate above idle. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ckc72r

Thank you for the responses. Been busy this weekend and did not have much of a chance to work on the tractor. Was about ready to push it out of the shed to work on it when thunder started rumbling in the distance. Does anyone know the difference between different spark plugs? It had a champion j19 in it, I downloaded the manual off the internet and it calls for a j8 for champion plugs. The closest I could find was a cj8 at tsc. Does anyone know the differences? 

 

As as far as the tiller what does the idler pulley look like? Is it attached to the tiller or the tractor? I’m thinking it’s probably mia.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad
19 minutes ago, ckc72r said:

As as far as the tiller what does the idler pulley look like? Is it attached to the tiller or the tractor?

KirksTiller_0021.jpg.9a277dab3798219f0d902d5293f94958.jpg

Hanging in the top left of the pic.

Might be on the back of the tractor, left side next to the rear lift.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ckc72r

So got to work on the tractor. Got it running decent through all the gears. Now on to clean it up and get the attachments working. ThAnk you all for the ideas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
donmoore1904

This is my tractor, and it looks like the Briggs 10hp 243431 motor.  Mine has been *fantastic*.  Uses no oil at all, and runs like a top.  I replaced a worn points plunger in mine and the points when I got it, and rebuilt the carb.  It ran great until I put "regular" gas in it that had ethanol.  I also ruined the carb in my Stihl chainsaw around the same time.  The Briggs motor ran like crud at the beginning of a new season, and several people said "it's your gas".  It was.  I use only premium now, and my chainsaw and tractor are happy.  I also ruined the internal electronic gas gauge in my BMW motorcycle, degradation of which I believe was traced to ethanol.  Glad to hear your motor is running well.  I bought a well used 3410 (precursor to 7010) tractor with the same motor from the Simplicity dealer, and sadly I never got it running right.  Like another user said, if they have been kept oiled, and the air cleaner has been replaced somewhat regularly, they are almost bulletproof.

Edited by donmoore1904

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ckc72r

So I’ve been tinkering with this tractor on and off. Got it to run well for a little while even had it out mowing the lawn. Then it would spin on trying to start but not ignite. After doing a lot of reading on this forum I got a nova 2 ignition module. That worked well for a while as well. Currently will not even attempt to turn over. Tried a couple different batteries so I don’t think it’s that, any ideas? It does burn a ton of oil. So bad it spews oil out the exhaust. Hopefully in a month or two I will have time to really look at it and pull the engine and rebuild it. Have any suggestions as to what I should do when I pull it apart? Want to work on this tractor and the landlord I got. Maybe I can document the work on here.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dhoadley

If you have oil coming out of the exhaust, I'm not surprised it won't run. You'll have to go in and look at rings & valves. Good luck, Dave

Edited by dhoadley
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×