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Tonyvdb

7117 ignition switch

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Tonyvdb

I am in need of a new/used ignition switch for my 7117. Can't seem to find one on Ebay and the parts stores say unavailable.  I have several 5 prong switches but none of them start the tractor. I have attached a picture of the prong layout.  Thanks for any help. Willing to pay the going rate plus shipping.

IMG_0408.jpg

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rich_kildow

I MIGHT have one left from the engineless 7117 I turned into a 7122.  I'll check on my next time out to the pole barn.

Oddly enough, I just had that bin of ignition switches, solenoids, and ammeters in hand yesterday ready to pick through it and toss some stuff.  

Edited by rich_kildow

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MikeES

You really need to take an ohm meter to the switch to find out if it will work for your battery ignition KT.  The key feature is with the "on or I" ignition circuit.  On many engines the tab for the "I" circuit is open with the key on and closed (complete circuit) to "G" ground with the key off. 

For your battery ignition KT engine the "I" circuit needs to be closed and connected (complete circuit) to the "B" battery tab with the key on and open with the key off.

Most switches have the 5 tabs, but the functions are all not in the same location, even checking factory Simplicity switches are not all in the same location, the adjustment is made with the wires in the plug.

Edited by MikeES
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Tonyvdb
4 hours ago, rich_kildow said:

I MIGHT have one left from the engineless 7117 I turned into a 7122.  I'll check on my next time out to the pole barn.

Oddly enough, I just had that bin of ignition switches, solenoids, and ammeters in hand yesterday ready to pick through it and toss some stuff.  

Thanks

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Tonyvdb
4 hours ago, MikeES said:

You really need to take an ohm meter to the switch to find out if it will work for your battery ignition KT.  The key feature is with the "on or I" ignition circuit.  On many engines the tab for the "I" circuit is open with the key on and closed (complete circuit) to "G" ground with the key off. 

For your battery ignition KT engine the "I" circuit needs to be closed and connected (complete circuit) to the "B" battery tab with the key on and open with the key off.

Most switches have the 5 tabs, but the functions are all not in the same location, even checking factory Simplicity switches are not all in the same location, the adjustment is made with the wires in the plug.

If I don't get a switch I'll try to rewire it.

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fishnwiz

There seems to be almost a dozen switches that look identical but are not. As stated above...meter is the only way to get the correct switch.

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