JDSnyder 0 Posted April 17, 2002 Les, I'm going to try fiberglass on one of my decks. I'm sure it won't meet OPEI specs for retaining blade thrown projectiles like rocks, but I'm not covering very big holes. I have used fiberglass to patch rust holes in other parts of tractors. It sure is easier to get looking nice than welding in a patch. Jeff Snyder Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LesH 1 Posted April 17, 2002 I am restoring this Serf 515, it cuts great, but has some large rust holes in the deck. The holes are at the curved top of the deck. Would fiberglass repair work (or be strong enough) to get the curve right?? MIG welding would be the normal way to make the repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JDSnyder 0 Posted April 17, 2002 Personally, I would have it welded, if I couldn't do it myself. Even brazing would be much stronger than fiberglass. Having said that, my father used a medium-grade bondo-type product, like "White Lightning," if I'm not mistaken, to FILL IN THE HOLE IN THE CRANKCASE to the 31/2 hp. Briggs on his rototiller. And this was many years ago, and it held, w/ admittedly light/infrequent use. He used like 1/4" opening, heavy screen to reinforce the patch, gobbing it on both sides. You would think the hot oil would make it fail, but not yet. My point is, I don't think it's safe, projectile wise, on a mower deck, but you could do it. Heavy reinforcment is a must, and everything must be c-l-e-a-n. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Woodydel 0 Posted April 18, 2002 My opinion, patch with metal,finish with fiberglass. I've patched mower decks with steel hammered into shape and braze in place...Woody Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lsenus 0 Posted April 18, 2002 ABSOLOUTLY use metal for the patch, then try the fiberglass for the bond. Metal and the glass resins do expand at different rates, so watch for cracking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites