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Broadmoor #4


dhoadley

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I posted this on the "Ebay/CraigsList" forum, where it sat tormenting me for a month. This week I buckled and called. Went up this morning and bought it for $120.

My little truck was built for Small-Frames.

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In the ad, the seat cover hooked me.

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The front tires are junk. I can't believe they hold air.

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The rears are mismatched, but in better shape.

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The tractor looks to have lived inside all its life. Fuel tank is in perfect shape, looks brand new inside.

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The rear axle concerns me. Why would someone drill extra holes in-line like that?

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What is this on the deck? Toe protection?

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Rope pull. Starts first time, every time. Uses a little oil, maybe an oz/hr. Brought it home and ran it.

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Cutting grass with a Small-Frame is like slow dancing with a girl when I was young. The Best!

Edited by dhoadley
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Nice condition tractor.  I also can't believe those tires hold air. There must be a can or two of fix a flat in those tires or tubes or both.O.o

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Hello, is the engine  a replacement ?, the engine in my 707 had a starter generator

Great tractor 

Thanks Ken in Mi

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14 hours ago, maxwood said:

Hello, is the engine  a replacement ?, the engine in my 707 had a starter generator

Great tractor 

Thanks Ken in Mi

No, you got the top-end model. The dash has a plug where the amp gauge should be.

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Put a few hours in yesterday going through her. Changed engine and trans oil. Replaced the front tires and rims. The rims that came with it are great, so I'll use those for sure on one of the others. Greased and tightened up the front end. Greased the center pivot. The center spindle on the deck has just the slightest movement, so I swapped it out with another deck that is tighter. Does anyone know what bearings are needed for small-frame decks? Thanx, Dave

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Nice find Dave  dOd  , I've 2 sets of those fronts can set you right up 666

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Edited by 720nut
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I appreciate the thought Lloyd, but I have four pairs. One set of rims the bushings have worn so the rims are sloppy on the spindles, but the other 3 sets are good rims. I'm going to try a different tread on the dedicated snow machine (have small-frame blower and hi-lo) and I have 2 sets of passable original tires for the other 2. 1 machine is a pile of parts at this point, so the goal is 3 working tractors.

Edited by dhoadley
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On ‎8‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 12:46 PM, dhoadley said:

Why would someone drill extra holes in-line like that?

The holes in the axel and in the hub assembly get wobbled out.  If you think that's bad, I bought a replacement tranny on which the holes had wobbled out so bad, that a PO welded the hub onto the axel.  On my original tranny, I'm going to over-drill the axel and insert a sleeve/bushing.  I was able to find new hubs online.

Edited by wwbragg
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On 9/10/2018 at 10:00 PM, Chris727 said:

That toe protection is the original equipment deck deflector. 

Soooo that deflector keeps your toe from shooting across the lawn after it gets cut off by the blades ?

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19 hours ago, fishnwiz said:

Soooo that deflector keeps your toe from shooting across the lawn after it gets cut off by the blades ?

I think it keeps the blood from spraying all over your nice tractor.

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Swapped out the back tires for a set of better, loaded, originals. I have a set of 8" cast iron weights I may add. Just have to figure out mounting problems. Next weekend.

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  • 2 months later...

This machine starts so easy that I've decided to mount my small-frame snowblower on it. Got it mounted up and found a belt in the pile that seems about right. The one problem I had to address was that I have no lift rod. Tried a cheap chain, but that wasn't satisfactory. After mulling it over, I decided to make one from threaded rod.

The oil drain pipe is the only thing in line.

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I got 2 appropriate sized "yokes" (I had no idea what the names for these end pieces were before I bought them) and 3/8-24 rod. I cut threads into the yokes to use bolts instead of pins, as I have very little clearance inboard at the handle.

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I measured with my thumb and decided on 2 45* bends, 2" from the end, 2" in between. If I had to do it again, I would have gone 3" between the angles to clear the pipe more.

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Cut to length and installed.

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I need to add a locking nut, as it wants to flop sideways. Didn't have one onsite, found one later in the basement. I'll add it tomorrow. I'm ready for winter now.

The snow removal fleet, staged and ready to leap into action.

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Edited by dhoadley
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So, I picked up some rear weights. (see Small frame weights & tire chains in ebay-Craigslist forum) The bar weighs 42 lbs. and the donuts are 25 lb. each.

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God bless Simplicity, they didn't change things for decades. These came off a Broadmoor 738, and bolted right up to my 707, which is about 10 years older. Just needed to dig out a bolt at least 5" (from the coffee can filing system in my basement) for the top mount. Found an appropriately thick bolt that was 5 1/2". Perfect.

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I don't know if the engine is strong enough to throw snow, but I'm not likely to get stuck. I've been following the "Turf vs. Ag / chains or no chains" discussion and I've decided to start without chains, as my driveway is pretty new and was sealed this past summer.

Edited by dhoadley
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I started out pushing snow with my grandparents Yeoman and I knew immediately when a chain slipped off it just stopped and spun the tires. 

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We'll find out when I give it a field test. (no snow here) I have near 4 gallons of washer fluid in each tire, plus the weights, plus my bony butt. Slight incline on the driveway. I have cast iron weights that I may mount, but I'd only be able to use a single bolt to hold them on.

Edited by dhoadley
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  • 2 weeks later...
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