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How to repair clutch bolt to cast on tranny

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SimpleOrange

long ago bought a Thomas skid steer that had a seized VH4D Wisconsin where the previous owner had used the fins on the cast iron flywheel to try and turn the engine over. All he managed to do was break off half a dozen fins, fortunately the broken bits were laying in the bottom of the cowling.

Was easy to tell where each fin belonged by matching up the break line, once tack welded with nickel welding rod the opposite side was prepared for a full length nickel weld.

Once all the fins were welded back the excess weld was removed using a die grinder,

I'm not sure how I would approach the repair on that broken part your showing. The part looks pretty heavy and may have to be pre-heated for welding and Nickel is your rod.

Others that are schooled in the art of welding  may approach the use of Nickel welding rod a bit different than I do, I lay a very short bead then peen the weld to relieve stress on cooling. Larger parts being repaired have to be pre-heated then after welding buried in a pile of insulation.

Nickel is tough and wears well and its machinable.

If  you have a trade school nearby then take the part to them for repair, the trade school instructors are not permitted to accept money but can accept donations on behalf of the school.

 

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kwt

I would probably Braze it full, then drill and tap. Just like simpleorange, cool it as slowly as you can. Bronze is pretty tough actually, and you may be able to pile a bunch of it up to make a boss if the missing part is nowhere to be found. It's readily machinable. The part will have to be stripped of all associated parts and thoroughly cleaned. When Simpleorange says  "I'm not sure how I would approach the repair on that broken part your showing." ,it means that this isn't a simple job, and shortcuts can't be taken.

 

I say this as I have more experience brazing than using nickle rod. Mostly exhaust manifolds. I tell myself that one day I'm going to try nickle, but I hate to mess with a process I have more or less mastered. 

Edited by kwt
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SimpleOrange

Looks to me the original problem was that the bolt used was too long for the threaded hole and it bottomed out causing the damage to the casting.

 

Edited by SimpleOrange

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SimpleOrange
47 minutes ago, kwt said:

I would probably Braze it full, then drill and tap. Just like simpleorange, cool it as slowly as you can. Bronze is pretty tough actually, and you may be able to pile a bunch of it up to make a boss if the missing part is nowhere to be found. It's readily machinable. The part will have to be stripped of all associated parts and thoroughly cleaned. When Simpleorange says  "I'm not sure how I would approach the repair on that broken part your showing." ,it means that this isn't a simple job, and shortcuts can't be taken.

 

I say this as I have more experience brazing than using nickle rod. Mostly exhaust manifolds. I tell myself that one day I'm going to try nickle, but I hate to mess with a process I have more or less mastered. 

I've never mastered brazing, my father used a carbon arc torch for brazing. As a kid played with it a bit but always ended up with a bad sun burn on any exposed skin.

Nickel if my ,memory is correct is a DC reverse polarity rod, the thing that I do remember is that its a long arc and the metal kinds dribbles off in dobs at the end of the rod.

I tried repairing a 390 block in a one ton Ford where the block had cracked under the intake manifold, so may pieces it looked like a puzzle that had spilled onto the floor. A few pounds of Nickel went into that job and the worse part the repair was unsuccessful.

Once found an old hit and miss style engine with a water jug cast into the top that was badly cracked and some resourceful blacksmith had made the repair with lead and the way the lead was laid in having the same pattern as if he had used brazing rod.

Gave the engine to a friend who had the second hand store in Agassiz BC, Ken re-purposed the engine as a planter and it sat in front of the store for many years.

 

ken.png

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brokenwrench

cast iron fusion rods for oxy acc welding using copper flux. this is late 1890s tech i have done it a few times you need to have the piece totally bead blasted clean and oil free   and  grooved and draw filled the area to be repaired. the other method is use muggy weld  low temp arc welding rods these methods work we ll with malleable  cast grey cast and machinable cast

https://www.muggyweld.com/product/77-electrode/?gcl

 

 

if you dont want to tackle this yourself finding a welding school is a good option  for the welding teacher to fix it as class instruction demo.  most times you only buy the rods used  at most sometimes the repair is free

 

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