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Horvik

Oil Leak on 3416 H , need help

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Horvik

Hello;

 

I noticed an oil leak coming from beneath the 16 HP Briggs, 326431, check the four pan bolts, drain plug and fill leg, all tight. Using non detergent 30 w oil.

Any ideas as to what is wrong? Cannot see much in there as it now sits.

 

Thank You

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Chris727
28 minutes ago, kwt said:

I wouldn't even know where to get non detergent oil.

Around here its offered at Wal Mart or most auto parts stores, that being said, I don't personally use it. 

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kwt

I'm just going to toss these out there. Hopefully the administrators can clean these up and post them somewhere in the research section. These old docs will eventually be lost forever. The attachments were supplied with the purchase of a 3112V in 1969. Maybe they could go with the 1969 Simplicity stuff.

Notice on page 1, "Any high quality detergent oil...can be used in your Briggs & Stratton engine. I encourage the OP to do a little research on detergent and non-detergent oils.

 

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Edited by kwt
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MARK (LI)
22 hours ago, kwt said:

I wouldn't even know where to get non detergent oil.

Tractor Supply......O'reilly's...it is recommended for some older engines...although I don't understand why

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kwt
1 hour ago, Horvik said:

Following up on the leaking pan, i found this new one in my stock, but may have to do some machining to have it fit up to the stock designations.

Briggs_Pan.jpg

Is the pan cracked? If it's just a little warped you can have it milled for not much money. I just use rtv for the gasket.

 

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kwt
This is what ConocoPhillips has to say about their ND oil.
 
 
Kendall Non-Detergent Motor Oil is a high-quality, non-detergent
engine oil recommended primarily for use in industrial
applications where a non-detergent oil is specified. The SAE 30
viscosity grade also may be used in gasoline engines operated
under such mild conditions that higher quality compounded oils
are not required. It meets API Service SB performance
requirements.
Non-Detergent Motor Oil is formulated to provide good wear
protection and resistance to oxidation, rust, corrosion and
foaming.
Applications
• Air compressors and other industrial applications where a
non-detergent oil is specified
• Gasoline engines operated under such mild conditions that
compounded oils are not required
(1)
Non-Detergent Motor Oil meets the requirements of:
• API Service SB (obsolete)

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LMichaels

I have never seen an engine that meets that spec. Your old briggs is air cooled and most likely runs awful hot. They also run very dirty. Lots of blow by, gasoline wash down and such. I think back in the day (dark ages) detergent type oil did not work well. It foamed (not good for splash lube engines) it broke down easily, even multi weight oils were awful as the VI compounds would separate under extreme conditions so single grades were still the best. Technology has come a VERY VERY long way since. A really good oil to use might be Rotella T6 or even T5 but I like the T6 better die to it's better viscosity range. Even some motorcycle companies like Moto Guzzi specify Rotella T6 in their owner's manual. Because of how well it holds up to the extreme heat of a large displacement V twin. Your oil leaking may even be due to seals being sludged up or broken down and hardened by use of inferior oil

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Bill725

If the oil leak is coming from the front PTO crankshaft seal and the engine has the full 2 quarts of oil, try draining a small amount of oil out. I have this issue on all of my B&S CI engines.

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MrSteele

First, I would do as suggested, and use a different oil. I use SAE 30, myself, but not non-detergent. This year, I have used several quarts of 50, along with a quart of STP, and 2 quarts of Lucas stabilized.I am building a new to me engine to replace so I can build the one in it. No skeeters in my neighborhood while I am cutting the yard!! A detergent oil, multi weight or even a detergent single weight might do a bit of cleaning inside for you. Or, you could always flush with kerosene or mineral spirits to clean the innards a bit.

Most likely, the oil is coming from the front seal, could also be the gasket, but I would look at the engine under the PTO shaft to see if there are oil tracks. As also stated, you may be overfilling. Full to the top of the filler threads is overfilled. The full mark is the bottom of the threads. That seal can be replaced without removing the engine if the PTO shaft is not rusted outside the engine. I always clean mine, then a light coat of paint to keep rust away, simply for changing of the seal reasons. Paint comes off easily, rust has to be sanded, a difficult operation with the engine in the tractor

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ShaunE
19 hours ago, MrSteele said:

rust has to be sanded, a difficult operation with the engine in the tractor

I just loop a piece of emery cloth around it while its running.  Shines in no time.  Probably not the best idea though.

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dhoadley
9 hours ago, ShaunE said:

I just loop a piece of emery cloth around it while its running.  Shines in no time.  Probably not the best idea though.

Sounds like a great idea to me, but I think a lot of stupid ideas are great. dz

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MrSteele

Would be safe as long as you are not holding the emery cloth, but that would kind of defeat the purpose. I go back to painting the shaft, when cleaned at times the engine is sitting on the bench. The seal will slide over the paint in most occasions. A good air or water hose cleaning will remove debris to allow the seal to slide, undamaged, then tap or drive into place in the housing. That hole in the front allowing the PTO shaft to pass through makes the emery cloth idea extremely unsafe, if you like your fingers on your hands, where they belong

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ShaunE
9 hours ago, MrSteele said:

That hole in the front allowing the PTO shaft to pass through makes the emery cloth idea extremely unsafe, if you like your fingers on your hands, where they belong

I remove the grill & I don't wrap the paper around my fingers, hands or wrists.  I simply use a piece off the roll about 2 feet long & pinch it between my thumb & index finger & hold gentle pressure against the spinning crankshaft.  I can't imagine anyone replacing that seal with the grill still in place with any success.

Didn't mean to offend you if I did.  

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MrSteele

 

14 hours ago, ShaunE said:

I remove the grill & I don't wrap the paper around my fingers, hands or wrists.  I simply use a piece off the roll about 2 feet long & pinch it between my thumb & index finger & hold gentle pressure against the spinning crankshaft.  I can't imagine anyone replacing that seal with the grill still in place with any success.

Didn't mean to offend you if I did.  

 

 

No offense at all. There are some folks here who needed your clarification, though. I have done the emery cloth trick myself, until the paint idea came along. I have no attachments that will attach to the PTO shaft in the front, yet...

 

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ShaunE
6 minutes ago, MrSteele said:

 

 

 

No offense at all. There are some folks here who needed your clarification, though. I have done the emery cloth trick myself, until the paint idea came along. I have no attachments that will attach to the PTO shaft in the front, yet...

 

What I learned from a tech many years ago was to use a plastic bag or piece of cling type wrap to place over the crank before sliding the seal on.  It will protect the seal better than even scotch tape.  A little plumbers grease doesn't hurt in addition.

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