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Matt simo

Looking to buy the simplicity 7119

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fishnwiz

You obviously realize the motor has been swaped out somewhere along the way. Original would be a 19hp Kohler. The tractor does appear to have seen somewhat heavy use from the little I can tell from the pics.

Series 2 17hp is a bit more reliable than the series 1 engines due to increase in oil pressure. Regarding the oil leak it could be something simple like breather valve or main bearing seal or it could be something worse. Regardless, you will most likly need to pull the engine and the tins to find the real cause of the oil leak. The engine is a BEAST and somewhat on the heavy side.  That being said, the 17 kohler is a reliable engine that a lot of folks love but how the engine was maintained by the previous owner {s} will have an effect on the longevity of the engine.  

Value is subjective and varies from location to location.  If I set a value that I think it's worth, others may disagree or be insulted while others may think I am high on my price. I have purchased running smoking and leaking tractors with a deck in the 300 to 700 dollar range only to just barely get my investment back MINUS MY LABOR. I have also sold a few for a few hundred more than I paid. CONDITION IS EVERYTHING.   A good running tractor and deck  will sell for 6 to 1.2K in the midwest, depending on condition. Obviously there is some value added with extras like the tiller...wheel weights, extra deck, ect..

Without knowing the source of the oil leak, it's a bit of a crap shoot. Obviously if rings are the issue you are looking at a whole different set of costs. If I was looking to buy this I would want it around the  500 range with all the unkowns with the engine AND the extras that should help on recovery of some of your initial investment if in fact the engine is too costly to repair or not an easy fix. 

If you are still considering this setup...if possible...start the tractor and let it run for 10 mins or so and see how bad the oil issue effects the performance of the engine and if it's even possible to see where your going thru the smoke. 

BEST OF LUCK and sorry I could not be of more help!

Edited by fishnwiz
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ShaunE

Wiz just gave you very sound advice.  As stated, the original engine has been replaced.  I for one love the KT Series 2 engines but cleanliness is next to Godliness with them.  Remove engine, all shielding & flywheel.  You'll see why after you do it.  There will be so much grime buildup from the residual oil that it will make your head spin.  Including under the flywheel & packed in & around the stator.  I use degreaser & a pressure washer using fairly warm water but I'm careful not to hit the seals dead on.  Oil capacity is 48oz plus 8oz more if it is equipped with the standard Kohler oil filter.

The oil leak could be as simple as someone overfilling it.  Bad breather or blown seals.  If seals are blown, in my experience, it's due to increased crankcase pressure from bad rings.   I personally don't usually buy a unit without bringing a compression tester along with me.  Between compression testing & leak down testing, you can pinpoint the exact problem most of the time.

To me personally, the snowblower has no value as I don't use them & would be trying to flip it as soon as it was home.  The cab as well.  But they have value to most.  Rototiller I value @ $350 with the idler pulley's, complete rear lift group on the tractor with the cable & the small pulley the cable passes around is $100 all day.  So depending what the seller is asking, you have a couple opinions to base your final decision on.  

If that Craftsman screwdriver jammed in the hydrostatic lever channel comes with it, then the sky is the limit&:)!

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fishnwiz
42 minutes ago, ShaunE said:

If that Craftsman screwdriver jammed in the hydrostatic lever channel comes with it, then the sky is the limit&:)!

I myself prefer Master Mechanic....O.o Phillips to be exact.

Edited by fishnwiz
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rich_kildow

Solid advice all around.  If it's a hard top cab and correct for the model, that's not a bad add on assuming it's in good condition.  Especially if it has the glass windshield and wiper upgrades.  Kind of doubt it for that price.  The mule drive for the tiller is an important part and is worth about as much as the tiller itself.  Looks like it's there, but I can't QUITE tell for sure.  

The rust around the hood seams and on the running boards leads me to believe that it's on the low end of decent condition, and that would make me question the maintenance done on the engine.  

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rich_kildow

Also, it looks like the snowblower is a 42" with the scraper in good condition, but the shoes look like they were bent in pretty well.  Those blowers can be straightened and cleaned up easily enough, but things to pay attention to.

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MikeES

Looking at the pictures it looks like the front of the mowing deck is full of oil.  Could be a leaking seal under the flywheel and it would throw oil all over the place.

To change that seal you will need to pull the engine and pull flywheel off, but you do not have to open the engine up, you can change the seal from the outside of the engine.  OR

I picked up a 7119 that had a lot of oil on the right side similar to yours, and found that the engine at one point broke a rod and cracked the case right next to the dip stick (the most common place for the KT engines).  The crack was repaired (welded) but not completely, cleaned it up and a little JB weld and no more oil flying out.  I would check the area right behind the dip stick, you may have a rebuild engine that threw a rod at one time.

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ardisam
2 hours ago, MikeES said:

Looking at the pictures it looks like the front of the mowing deck is full of oil.  Could be a leaking seal under the flywheel and it would throw oil all over the place.

To change that seal you will need to pull the engine and pull flywheel off, but you do not have to open the engine up, you can change the seal from the outside of the engine.  OR

I picked up a 7119 that had a lot of oil on the right side similar to yours, and found that the engine at one point broke a rod and cracked the case right next to the dip stick (the most common place for the KT engines).  The crack was repaired (welded) but not completely, cleaned it up and a little JB weld and no more oil flying out.  I would check the area right behind the dip stick, you may have a rebuild engine that threw a rod at one time.

Mike,

I'm going to lean more towards the flywheel seal of anything. A bad flywheel seal will put oil on the shrouds and mower deck vs. a cracked crankcase housing by the dipstick. A cracked crankcase housing will put the oil on the front of the tractor. I have saw this with my KT's and Magnum engines.

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fishnwiz

The last KT I bought had rear crank seal leak and it did draw a ton of oil into the fins and up on top of the engine with oil pooling on the front lip of the frame. Really hard to tell .

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