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Powermax powerangle snowplow


Josiah deshong

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Hello wise fellows has anyone made there powermax snowplow powerangle. I don’t know much about hydraulics but if I cap off my three point connections and run the hydraulic line to a cylinder to my snow plow would it be possible to make a cylinder work to angle the plow I have an extra 3 point cylinder would it have enough stroke to swing the blade back and forth I gotta a cab coming finally and I don’t really want to get in and out of it to turn the blade thanks ahead of time for any input

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Josiah, you really need to find the aux. lines for the front they hook to the lines running to your 3 point, makes a real simple hookup

Your lift cylinder will not work you need 8 in. stroke cylinder. Check with midnightpumpkin he has done one 

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Thanks I searched for it here but couldn’t find it. And the michaels link doesn’t work for me.  I assume I have to register

Edited by Josiah deshong
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14 hours ago, Josiah deshong said:

Thanks I searched for it here but couldn’t find it. And the michaels link doesn’t work for me.  I assume I have to register

I sometimes have trouble with Micheals to but just remember discussing this

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23 hours ago, midnightpumpkin said:

Here we go again, it is documented on Michael's because at the time there were no other active Powermax owners on this site. 

Lloyd is correct, it takes an 8" stroke to do the job.

http://www.michaelstractors.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8121&SearchTerms=power,angle

 

John U

As posted in a previous topic about ignition conversion...  I and many others can not access Michaels even after trying to join.  So anything that has been posted there is unobtainable to many.

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Yeah I quit trying to register. Those auxiliary lines I would think they’d b hard to come by but I’ll do what I can if I run into a problem I’ll pm a guru thanks for the stroke length that’ll save me some fab work 

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There is a set of auxiliary lines on eBay if some body could confirm for me they are the left side lines facing the tractor hood from the front  they appear to me to have a lot shorter 90 degree turns then the ones on my tractor now thanks 

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I think I may have located the lines I need. If michaelstractors is such a pain isn’t there a way to get all that valuable info brought over to simpletractors where it can be appreciated again I’ve tried a hundred times there’s no accessing Michael’s. Thanks for any help it would save me a lot of screwing up down the road making this plow

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I have been a registered member at Michael's Tractors as long as I have been here and have absolutely no problem accessing that site. Not sure what problem registering you guys are having? 

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2 hours ago, B10Dave said:

I have been a registered member at Michael's Tractors as long as I have been here and have absolutely no problem accessing that site. Not sure what problem registering you guys are having? 

Me either.  But I'm definitely NOT alone.

I don't know what the problem would be to copy & paste the information here either.  Do you?

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Did this last year. If you get lines from a 4040 or 616 they will hook up to your factory lines. Under the center cover in front of the seat you will see two caps. they tie right into there. 

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Hey if anyone has a set of 4040 or 616 auxiliary lines they would like to part with pm me thanks

Edited by Josiah deshong
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I just finished doing a power angle blade for Gertrude, our 4041.

When I restored the tractor last year, I added the second set of front ports by using the front lines from a 4040. These lines also go to the rear lift. I am using the original dual spool valve that came on the 4041. I added a set of quick connects for the rear lift cylinder so that the power angle cylinder and the rear lift do not cycle at the same time. It is one or the other, power angle or rear lift, if they both cycle, they are very slow to respond.

Here is the final product.
201341153049_DSCN5212.JPG

Now for the details.

I used a cylinder from Suplus Center, you need one with an 8 inch stroke. Note that this cylinder has the pin mount on the cylinder end at 90 degrees to the ports, ideally the pin or other attachment point would be in line with the ports. I did have a clearance issue when the front wheels are turned hard to the right and the front axle is pivoted through it's arc. My solution was to cut the pin mount off and re-weld it in line with the ports.

201341153238_DSCN5233.JPG


To mount the cylinder to the front swiveling part of the hitch, I took advantage of the hollow tube that goes from side to side and used an 18" long piece of 7/8 rod to go through the tube.

Here is the 7/8 rod with a C section welded on the end to attach to the cylinder rod. Grandson Johnny's welding skills are steadily improving to the point where his welds are looking professional.

201341153417_DSCN5180.JPG

Here is the 7/8 rod in place on the hitch. It is held in place with set collars on each end. The rod could be shorter by up to 4", I wanted the extra length for adjustment since this was the first time to do this.

201341153519_DSCN5206.JPG

Johnny welded up another C section out of 2 pieces of 3 inch angle. the open end of the C is 3 1/4 inches, this is to attach the cylinder to the hitch. Again I congratulate John on the appearance of his welds.

201341153613_DSCN5184.JPG

Here is the rear C channel welded to the hitch and the front attachment rod in place.

201341153747_DSCN5193.JPG

A close up of the cylinder attached to the hitch.

201341153923_DSCN5234.JPG


With the 8" stroke cylinder we have full travel on the plow.
We have had enough snow to try this out a couple of times. It works well. The only odd thing I noticed, is that when the lift cylinder is in the float postion, no power goes to the angle cylinder. So you can't move the blade angle on the fly with the blade in float. Not a big deal, must just be the way the spool valve is set up.

John U
 

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Thankyou indeed if I can’t find auxiliary lines I was thinking of just running hydraulic line from the three point to the plow along side of my 620 then when winter was over just unhooking them and hooking the 3 point back up. Does that seem reasonable also the original lines if I find them are they pretty straight forward on how they go and hook up or is  it a tear everything off the tractor to run them and hook up with the rear pto there isn’t much room in there to work also the freaking seat is terrible to get off I dread it, poorly engineered having to take off seat to pull hydro cover everytime

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9 hours ago, Josiah deshong said:

Thankyou indeed if I can’t find auxiliary lines I was thinking of just running hydraulic line from the three point to the plow along side of my 620 then when winter was over just unhooking them and hooking the 3 point back up. Does that seem reasonable also the original lines if I find them are they pretty straight forward on how they go and hook up or is  it a tear everything off the tractor to run them and hook up with the rear pto there isn’t much room in there to work also the freaking seat is terrible to get off I dread it, poorly engineered having to take off seat to pull hydro cover everytime

I found it easier to remove engine as like you say really tight in frame no matter what your doing.

Mr John I want to take the time to thank you for all your help when I was first starting to learn these tractors , invaluable, you are the Man in my book

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@midnightpumpkin

I just took the liberty to copy and paste your post into an "article".  It currently awaits approval.

I believe your work deserves to be a stand alone post and should be more easily found so I copied it to the "articles" forum.

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