Small-frame Hi-Lo question

[dhoadley]

I was doing winterizing work in the shed yesterday and decided to take the Hi-Lo unit off a project Broadmoor 707 and put it on the working 707 I picked up over the summer. I have a small-frame snowblower attachment that I wanted to mount for possible use this winter. I got it switched over but it wouldn't engage Hi range. After looking it over, I decided to loosen the pulley and move it away from the transaxle case. It had been flush, and I've left a gap of 1/4-1/2". Hi range now engages, but I may need to open that gap just a bit more. Is there a standard, or is it just a case of "whatever works"? Thanx, Dave

Edited November 18, 2018 by dhoadley

[maxwood]

hello, I have a 707 as well  with "low speed pulley kit  990324 ".I f you  go to the simplicity manufactures site  you can download the instructions for it. 

hope this helps

Thanks Ken in Mi

[dhoadley]

It's on and looks just like that. Is your pulley right up against the transaxle case? I needed to leave a small gap to get Hi range. Thanx, Dave

[maxwood]

Hello, I took some photos It is about 3\16 ths or a 1\4 away from the case . 

 

Thanks Ken in Mi

[dhoadley]

Ok, thanx.

[TimJr]

If those plastic "yokes" that shift the planetary over are very worn, it may not engage hi or lo properly because it won't shift the unit far enough.

[dhoadley]

8 hours ago, TimJr said:

If those plastic "yokes" that shift the planetary over are very worn, it may not engage hi or lo properly because it won't shift the unit far enough.

They may be worn, I have nothing to compare them to. The gap on either side of the disk is fairly large; I might be able to slip a second disk in. Are replacements obtainable? Thanx, Dave

[TimJr]

Didn't someone reproduce the plastic yokes/forks at one time?  I didn't look, but I think they are obsolete.  I was thinking they fit fairly snug - enough room to not rub, but not sloppy.  Sorry for lack of better description.

[steve-wis]

Dave,

If you search the site you should find more info.  I do know someone did make some of the plastic inserts for the shifting yoke, maybe Tim Fleury?  You can make your own also, just buy a pc. of plastic of the right diameter and you can put the slot in with a saw, it doesn't need to be real precise, just wide enough so it doesn't rub when it is sitting free.  As far as shifting, I have found that if there is old grease inside of the unit and it gets hard it will make it hard or even impossible to shift.  I would take the unit off and take it apart, clean it and check it over, then put it back together.  When you put it on the tractor, with wheels off the ground, shift it back and forth and make sure it all is working and engaging.  The dogs that contact the square nuts on the outside of the housing will get worn pretty bad as well, usually from shifting while still moving.  They have two workable ends and can be turned around for a new engaging end if it isn't already worn out.  You can also make these parts new, saw out from a pc. of steel the same thickness with a band saw, drill the holes, and sand the edges smooth.  Finally, the nuts that contact these should be square.  I have found some with nuts replaced with hex nuts, it doesn't work as well.  Also, the nuts are of two different thicknesses, and they should be put on with every other one thicker or thinner as you go around the unit.

Hope this helps!

Steve 

[maxwood]

Hello, I used to have a drawing with dimensions, of the shift pivot. but I lost a bunch of documents on the last computer crash.   Maybe someone still has that  drawing?

Thanks Ken in Mi

[maxwood]

Hello, I found it online

[dhoadley]

Steve, I took it apart, cleaned & regreased. The "dogs" were missing all together and I asked for and received a paper template from someone on this site. (forgive me for not remembering your name, but thanx again) I made and replaced it. Max, I'll put a measure and see if that slot is much over a 1/4". Very helpful! Thanx, Dave 

Edited November 22, 2018 by dhoadley

[steve-wis]

I also believe there are two styles of the plastic pivots, one has the smaller dia. where it goes into the fork, and the other is just a straight plastic part.  My small frame Simplicities (616, 627, etc) had the ones that were not turned down.  There should be info on both styles in the archives.

 

Steve

[dhoadley]

Mine look just like the ones in Maxwood's post.