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Repowering 1969 2210 with Yanmar China clone diesel. Driveshaft adapter ideas?


GDM22058

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Good afternoon everyone

So ever since I bought this 1969 2210 for the tiller set up, the old girl has kinda grown on me. I bought it with a bad 10hp Briggs that has 20 pounds of compression. Also the old owner hacked the ever living crap out of the wiring, fuel system, and throttle system. 

I decided to save the tractor and am swapping a Yanmar diesel China clone in it. I started the swap and it seems to be straight forward so far. With minimal alterations to the frame, it appears it will fit just fine. I will be relocating the gas tank (probably use the factory tank but modified) and muffler. My goal is to have the install completed cleanly and I won't butcher the hood. 

 

So my question is about the adapter for the driveshaft. I am looking for ideas on how to adapt the simplicity driveshaft to the flywheel on the diesel? I have seen some older posts on this subject but the photos are gone. Anyone got any ideas?

 

IMG_20181106_130745730.jpg

IMG_20181203_200326381.jpg

IMG_20181207_094248733.jpg

IMG_20181207_094317583.jpg

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Does it turn in the correct direction? Are the four holes around the crank nut deep enough tot use for an adaptor? Sort of like the ones made for the Predator 670 swap?

 

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7 hours ago, kwt said:

Is the crankshaft in the exact same position as the old Briggs? In the last pic it looks like it is higher.

It will be, I'm still in the mounting/lining up phase. Actually the old Briggs crank was higher then this motor. Also the crank looks lower as it's unhooked and has some downward pressure, making it sag downward.

IMG_20181203_193206390.jpg

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Honestly... I'd just make up an adapter similar to the CH25 in the Legacy's and make myself a new driveshaft with U-Joints same as in the later tractors. Easy to hook up to the cross box and takes care of any "minor" misalignment issues with crank position. The small yokes are plenty cheap someplace like TSC or Rural King and a length of cold rolled shaft won't cost much either.

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1 hour ago, GregB said:

Does it turn in the correct direction? Are the four holes around the crank nut deep enough tot use for an adaptor? Sort of like the ones made for the Predator 670 swap?

 

Yes it does turn the correct way (when on flywheel side). The four holes were deep enough for an adapter to be mounted to it. 

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Hello, The photo ,is of the 2 kohler adapters that were used from the engine to the drive shaft, the 1 on the right may work for you?  the  bolt hole pattern on the adapter, is probably different.  it may be possible to drill new holes,offset from the original  to match your diesel engines bolt pattern. 

The drive shaft may be able to slide on the BGB shaft  , to adjust the front to back measurement.

over the years the driveshaft lengths have varied , there is a thread on the site, that shows photos & dimensions . then you may be able to bolt everything together without to much engineering.

 

Thanks Ken in Mi

 

57e059cea08b9_22HPpredatormotor016.JPG.9c6023173c4b759d518eaae4a35d382d.jpg

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3 hours ago, GDM22058 said:

Actually the old Briggs crank was higher then this motor

I wonder if the diesel crack height is the same as the Predator?  If so, an old Triad mounting plate is what you need.  

 

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15 minutes ago, PhanDad said:

I wonder if the diesel crack height is the same as the Predator?  If so, an old Triad mounting plate is what you need.  

 

Huh, where would I find the height for a predator and what does the triad plate look like?

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8 minutes ago, GDM22058 said:

Huh, where would I find the height for a predator and what does the triad plate look like?

Can't help you with the crank height for a Predator. 

For a Triad mounting plate pic see this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/53923-sovereign-7117-22hp-predator-repower/?page=2

The height is 7/8" per this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/53738-triad-mounting-plate-dimensions/?tab=comments#comment-53741

 

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1 hour ago, GDM22058 said:

where would I find the height for a predator

First, using a machinist's caliper (get one at Harbor Freight or ebay), measure the crank diameter.  Divide by two.  Next, set the motor on the floor or bench.  Measure the distance from the bench to the bottom of the crank.  Add the 1/2 crank diameter.  The total is the distance from the bottom of the engine to the center of the crank.  Repeat the process for the original motor.  The difference between the two is the height you need to raise the Predator off the frame.  Measurements should be to the nearest mm or 32nds of an inch.  The more accurate your measurements, the less strain you will put on the fiberglass disc coupler.  

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