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7016 reverse gears

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AC710

I took apart my 7016 3-speed  transmission, because I could not keep it in reverse, and other strange things were happening. I found the input shaft needle bearing trashed, the reverse gear on the input shaft beat to pieces and the reverse gear rounded off. Surprisingly, everything else seems to be in good shape except for an axle shaft seal. Someone else had this tranny apart and I suspect they may have mis-installed the input shaft into the bearing - maybe got a needle behind the end of the shaft or something. There is also a missing lock ring on that shaft.

Some questions - Can the parts be had and where? and, can the reverse gear simply be flipped over and still be serviceable?

There also seem to be several thrust washers on the various shafts that are missing, compared to the parts list. Are these washers varied to obtain proper alignment and clearances or are they really missing ? For example, I noticed there was nearly 3/8 inch of end play in the main axle shaft.

pinion gear is 2154072, and bearing is 2154257SM

Thanks for your help.

7016 gears.jpg

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wwbragg

I'm no expert but in my experience, end play should be measured in 1000's of an inch, not 8ths.  Somebody has a used gear in better shape than yours.  You just have to find out who.  If you flip the gear as a last resort, it would probably be a short lived repair and most likely damage other components..  

 

Check this out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Simplicity-3212V-Landlord-Transmission-Reverse-II-Pinion-Gear-NLA-2154072/362262227405?hash=item545882e9cd:g:fRgAAOSwvvVanwAS:rk:2:pf:0

Edited by wwbragg
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AC710

the pinion gear on the input shaft obviously must be replaced, but the reverse gear (on the right in the photo) is only rounded over and seems like flipping it over would allow it to continue to be used.

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wwbragg
3 hours ago, AC710 said:

the reverse gear (on the right in the photo) is only rounded over

I could be wrong, but the rounding on the reverse gear is the way the gear is manufactured.  It is rounded like that to help the gears mesh. So in my opinion, reversing it is not only unnecessary but might even cause shifting problems.  

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AC710
15 hours ago, wwbragg said:

I could be wrong, but the rounding on the reverse gear is the way the gear is manufactured.  It is rounded like that to help the gears mesh. So in my opinion, reversing it is not only unnecessary but might even cause shifting problems.  

The reverse gear has obvious wear damage from grinding - spalling and polishing -  but maybe it isn't as serious as I thought and the gear may still be serviceable. Most of the wear is on the pinion gear.

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the summoner666
On 12/9/2018 at 3:59 PM, AC710 said:

The reverse gear has obvious wear damage from grinding - spalling and polishing -  but maybe it isn't as serious as I thought and the gear may still be serviceable. Most of the wear is on the pinion gear.

The new part number on the pinion is 1667230.

Simplicity wants 171.00 for new.

I have new one for 75.00, but no bearing.

Edited by the summoner666

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AC710

Thanks for the replies. I have gotten derailed by the Christmas season and will probably wait to order stuff until after the holidays. UPS has enough to do. Also my garage heater burned out so it gets a little chilly in there until I replace it.

It looks like I can get the bearing, seals and missing thrust washers from Grainger for very reasonable prices, so the main need is for the pinion. I will check back. I still need to do some closer cleaning and inspection before getting the full parts list, but it is looking like a do-able project.

One other weird thing - I checked the seating on all the bearings and hardly any of them are seated where they are supposed to be according to the service manual. This  and the missing thrust washers  and a lock ring probably account for some of the excess end play on the input shaft and main axle.

For the moment the gearbox is in pieces in hiding from grandkids coming for the holiday to avoid tracking oil everywhere. I've been thinking of showing them Grandpa's "Lego project" and see if they can get all those gears to mesh.

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AC710

Hello all; Well, the kids were more interested in presents, sledding and fishing - we got some pike to make fishfish tacos - yum.

Now I'm back on this project. I have looked everywhere for the bearing shown in the photo above. They are NLA anywhere.I have checked, even international bearing sources. It looks like the options are to replace it with a closed end full complement needle bearing, or an open ended caged bearing with a plug. The OEM is a caged  needle bearing. The main difference is the operating rpm - full complement runs at around 5200 max, while the caged version will run at 18000 mainly due to better oil access.

What does anyone think?

Would the full complement bearing be OK? I think this input shaft would never run over 5000 rpm, but the bearing is not in the gear oil so would rely on splash oiling. All the other bearings are full complement, but this one runs faster than the others.

Would the open-ended bearing be a better choice? I think an engine frost plug would seal the bearing borehole.

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AC710

 

23 hours ago, the summoner666 said:

DW Ogg in Maryland shows in the parts lookup that they have that bearing.

17.00

Got it ordered, thanks!!!

Now the next reveal...I checked the differential while waiting on parts.  A P.O. had taken this tractor to a local repair shop for "won't move forward" - there was a receipt for work in some paperwork that came from an auction. The shop put in a replacement diff and axle gear and charged them $500+...BUT - they didn't put any spacer washers in the diff, so it was misaligned and probably popping the diff gears to get moving. Most likely this was why it needed replacement in the first place, AND not a drop of grease on the new parts or inside the differential. The manual says it's supposed to be filled with grease. SHEESH!

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