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tej

Transaxle drive pulleys

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tej
Two questions: (1) What's the best way to get the drive pulley off without bending it? (2) When putting it back on how does one prevent it from again becoming one with the shaft? Tim

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B-Man
My technique is probably not the right way, but here goes.-I soak the pulley and if applicable the keyway as best as I can with penetrating oil and take an air hammer to the shaft( if theres no threads on the end)and pull on the pulley with one hand while pulling the trigger with the other. It hasn't let me down yet. And always use anti seize compound on tight tolerances so it'll come off again.

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Guest
Tim ,A little heat and a three jawed puller has always worked for me ......once the shaft is cleaned apply some "Never" or "Anti" sieze and they will not rust together ever again....you can buy the stuff at any automotive or bearing store.......I have had a lot of friends pick on me about using it so often on anything that may rust together ,but after they have fought with a rusted bolts and nuts for hours they usually end up buying some for their own use......and then they have to eat a little CROW.......Good Luck Jim

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Guest
Sometimes a tie-rod fork will get a pulley out without damaging the pulley groove by aplying the pressure between the trans mission and the pulley hub. One big word of CAUTION however, don't try this with engines with aluminum sumps. They are as brittle as glass if you try this method.

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tej
When I asked my Simplicity mechanic this same question he said he puts a large bearing separator behind the pulley and hooks his gear puller on to that. I however don't own a large bearing separator and don't intend to buy one. I never thought of using an impact tool to break the rust. One can always learn something new on this forum. Tim

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Al
Re: drive pulleys
I ususlly try an air chisel with a flat bit that has a radius in it. I then try to get on the hub and pound out [after the above suggestions] I try to get close to where the pulley is welded to the hub and ideally at 30 to 45 degrees. I never use a puller that goes in the grooves. [ruins the pulley every time] If I need a puller, I drill two or three holes thru the pulley, torch out a circle of steel !/4 in thick with a hole in the center that will go over the hub, then cut this ring in two or three pieces, drill to match the holes. Then put these plates behind the flat side and use a steering wheel puller with bolts thru the pulley and the "backing plates". If the shaft has a hole in it I run a bolt in till the head is tight and push with the puller on the head of the bolt. If not thresded put a smaller bolt in and push on the head, this keeps from damaging the shaft. When you have pressure on if it isn't coming, take the air gun to the hub, and tighten the puller. The air guns work miracles.

To remove arbor pulleys from the newer splined shafts on mower decks we cut the big end off a Kohler rod and put it around the hub of the pulley, put a long bolt in the arbor shaft. Put the assembly in the press press on the bolt with the rod on the press plates, you will never damage a pulley this way.

To get stuck pulleys off the old two bolt arbors, cut 4 pieces of 1/8 by 1 by 3+ inches of steel. Remove the nut to flush with the top of the arbor shaft. [The bearings are bad anyway or you wouldn't want it apart.] Lay a brass hammer on the nut, pound it down with a 5 lb hammer, it will only go a little over 1/8 inch and the key will hit the washers and bearing. Turn the deck up and pound the arbor back up from the bottom. Then lay it down and stick one of the 1/8" strips between the pulley and the bearing. [May need someone to hold it.] [By now the pulley will have moved some and you will have to remove the nut.] Then repeat the cycle until you have used all 4 strips stacked on each other and the pulley will be off. I have probably removed 2 or 300 of these pulleys this way over the last 20 years, the only other way is cut them off with a torch, a puller just bends them to junk and usually won't get them anyway. Hope there is something here that someone can use. Good luck,
Al

Amen to ant-isieze [Always put it on the axles of any tractor with keyed sheels like 4000 up[and penetrating oil. Although sometimes something thats rusted fast with some clearance the air chisel will often "powder" the rust, and it will come loose easier than if the rust is soaked, Tight fits, penetrating oil. Also bolts will come out with out breaking more often with an impact wrench than a wrench. If they are rusted tight [try dry] first pound on the head with an air chisel [flat punch]to crack the rust, then put an impact wrench on andjust let it pound 2 hits out and 2 in back and forth if it starts to come use the impact wrench, a wrench don't have the vibration and will much more often twist it off. I teach my help to remember if it twists of coming out you may not be able to help it, but any bolt twisted off going in, there is NO excuse.

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Al
Above post should have said wheels instead of sheels. If you have this type of wheels get them off while you still cand and get anti-sieze on them. Sorry about the extra i in seize. I won't charge for it. Al

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Fred
If you don't happen to have an air hammer, chuck a piece of rod stock (or a real impact punch) in an electric hammer-drill, set for 'impact only' if possible. Not as much force, but it helps.

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