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cowfan

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I found a 6118 in great shape, but there is a rod that went through the block of an opposed 16.   The baby moons are great, there are wheel weights included.  Deck is 48 and in great shape, the body is nice.

 

1. What are your impressions on the 6118’s? 

Any issues?   Any positives?

 

2.    I am getting it for a great price.  Am I better off to redo the motor or find a used motor?

 

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Other potential issue is it clunks when going into 1st, but reverse and second move easily.  3rd is a little tough to shift into.  Granted it was not running or moving.

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3 hours ago, cowfan said:

I found a 6118 in great shape, but there is a rod that went through the block of an opposed 16.   The baby moons are great, there are wheel weights included.  Deck is 48 and in great shape, the body is nice.

 

1. What are your impressions on the 6118’s? 

Any issues?   Any positives?

 

2.    I am getting it for a great price.  Am I better off to redo the motor or find a used motor?

 

If a rod went through the block that engine is toast. Any parts not damaged can be reused. ie Carb, heads, muffler, flywheel etc.

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If this were mine I would look for a good donor tractor and swap out the engine. That is not a real hard thing to do.

Rebuilding the engine is a different game and does require some experience. Other parts may have been damaged when the rod went so unless you know what your doing it may be an expensive waste of time if you miss another component that may have been damaged. 

I would swap engines and then take apart the old one and get a feel for your way around the internals. You can also as stated above, remove some of the usable parts.

Best of luck on your project. 

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I would either use Craigslist or run an ad in our classifieds.  An engine swap will be a piece of cake if you can find a similar engine.

The opposed 16 was used in a bunch of different tractors.

Edited by fishnwiz
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1 hour ago, cowfan said:

about the muffler

If the muffler on the ebay motor is different, use your old one. You will pay more that $400 on a donor tractor and still not be as well off. 

Swapping a vertical shaft motor is much easier than with a horizontal shaft motor.  In my perfect world, I would get that ebay motor.  Budget permitting, I would also get a rebuildable block (there are now two on ebay) and start a rebuild.  Get the Briggs service manual (not the same as the user manual) and follow it step by step.  Guys here in this club can answer questions.  You can do this.

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Ideally.  If I were you I would Google both an engine rebuild and an engine swap and watch a few Vids on YouTube. ...at least that way you will get an idea of what you feel your skill levels will allow with the least amount of frustration and or the possibility that you give up on trying to tackle this job.

FYI.I have bought and sold several tractors with opposed 16 for less than 150 bucks but that is in my local which happens to be very close to where a lot of these engines were built (Briggs) as well as being close to the Simplicity tractor plant in Port Washington. 

Edited by fishnwiz
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1 hour ago, LMichaels said:

Predator from HF 

I'm normally a big fan of the Predator but in my perfect world, that ebay motor would be ideal.  It's a direct drop in while the Predator would probably require new mounting holes and modifications to the drive pulley to achieve proper belt alignment.  And it is less $$$.

The carb on the ebay motor might have to be cleaned and re-tuned but that requires minimal effort.

 

 

Edited by wwbragg
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16 minutes ago, wwbragg said:

Looks great.  With a little degreaser,  a pressure washer bath and new motor, she'll be as good as new.  

What do you suggest as a good degreaser that will not harm paint?

 

i am still a little concerned about the clunk when I put it into first. It is like it bangs on the cover.

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I'm with @wwbragg on this one.  If that eBay engine has the same diameter crankshaft, the hardest thing about replacing the engine is going to be removing the pulley off the bottom of the existing engine.  I'd be messaging the seller or looking up the specs for verification.  I personally think it's going to be a direct fit & use your old muffler.  If it will work, I'm sure the seller will put it on a small pallet & drop it off at a Fastenal if you set up the shipment.  In my parts, Fastenal stores are WAY more prevalent then Greyhound Bus Stations.

Your deck appears to have one of the mounting ears broke off unless I'm missing something.

Edited by ShaunE
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42 minutes ago, ShaunE said:

I'm with @wwbragg on this one.  If that eBay engine has the same diameter crankshaft, the hardest thing about replacing the engine is going to be removing the pulley off the bottom of the existing engine.  I'd be messaging the seller or looking up the specs for verification.  I personally think it's going to be a direct fit & use your old muffler.  If it will work, I'm sure the seller will put it on a small pallet & drop it off at a Fastenal if you set up the shipment.  In my parts, Fastenal stores are WAY more prevalent then Greyhound Bus Stations.

Your deck appears to have one of the mounting ears broke off unless I'm missing something.

That’s what I thought, but it’s rounded and not broken.   There is a piece on the frame that the pin was attached to.  Strange.

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2 hours ago, cowfan said:

a good degreaser

Purple Power should do the trick.  Test it on a hidden area before general usage.  I bought a steam cleaner for this purpose but have not been able to try it out yet.  A pressure washer will remove a lot of grease and grit but must be done outside unless you have a floor drain.

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It was advertised locally for about a month, and I asked a couple times about seeing it, and he said if I would come and get it, $100.00. No complaints from me, now the wife wants to know why I have more than one lawn mower. O.o

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14 minutes ago, cowfan said:

why I have more than one lawn mower

The purpose is NOT to use the tractors to do work.  The purpose is to simply make the tractors work at all.  Tell her you are fixing it up for her.  Here is the one I fixed for my wife.

DSCF0342.JPG

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23 hours ago, AC716 said:

through the block of an opposed 16

The 16 HP Briggs is mentioned a couple of times in this thread.  Tractordata.com says your engine for a 6118 should be model # 421707.  The 16 hp version was model # 401707.  The displacement difference is in the stroke but is the crank shaft diameter the same?  If not, you may have difficulty adapting the drive pulley on a replacement motor.  If the shaft is bigger, you can drill out the pully.  If it is smaller, you may need to insert a bushing or sleeve into the pulley.  

I agree with @ShaunE who said removing the pulley will be the toughest part of the job.  Proceed carefully.  Using a regular wheel puller can warp the pulley.

Edited by wwbragg
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