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AC710

P.O'd at P.O's

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AC710

I'm getting into a rehab project while waiting for transmission parts. I've found some interesting fixes: Previous owners have done some creative things that are interesting, at least!

One guy painted over the hood with reasonably close simplicity orange, but then painted the black steering panels with oversprayed ... RED????

Another one replaced the voltage regulator but was too lazy to put it behind the battery, so hung it and all the wires outside???

the last guy had trouble with the battery going dead, so added a heavy duty battery cut-out switch, but didn't look at the corroded, rusty and maladjusted regulator???

Another one mounted a snowplow but replaced the spring in the lifting rod with a piece of pipe - that has resulted in bad rod wear, oval-ed out holes, and it actually twisted the rockshaft arm. I also found out the front axle pivot bolt and hole are really worn open (no pix of this).?????

Another one replaced a broken engine-to-BGB driveshaft disc with a rectangular hunk of 3/16" steel. Holes drilled in an "X" rather than 90 degrees. I wondered why there was so much vibration in the motor?????

Someone replaced a front wheel with a John Deere yellow one, but the bearings were set too deep so the lock ring couldn't be tightened. A couple of 59-cent spacer washers fixed that.

I'm sure there is more interesting stuff to come. 

 

 

 

 

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victorsnc

At first I thought you were describing various "no-mind fixes" that you had encountered over the years, THEN looking at the pictures it appears these were ALL on the SAME tractor!  Poor tractor - bless it's heart!

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MrSteele

If someone besides my grandson gets he tractor I am working on, he will find a nylon bushing at the rear front end pivot, Poor Man's Power Steering, a hard bushed front bearing housing at the BGB, new wiring(to me) in plastic conduit, possibly a nylon bushing in the front pivot on the front end. Timkin roller bearings in the front wheels, with a seal working against a hardened spacer instead of the front axle(will post pics of that with sizes and part numbers when I get the spacers from the machine shop). That improvement should keep the wheel hubs from wearing on the spindles. I am trying to tighten up the front end, while making it easier to maneuver. In the process, anything that can be bushed with newer material, IS being bushed with new material

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AC710
5 hours ago, MrSteele said:

If someone besides my grandson gets he tractor I am working on, he will find a nylon bushing at the rear front end pivot, Poor Man's Power Steering, a hard bushed front bearing housing at the BGB, new wiring(to me) in plastic conduit, possibly a nylon bushing in the front pivot on the front end. Timkin roller bearings in the front wheels, with a seal working against a hardened spacer instead of the front axle(will post pics of that with sizes and part numbers when I get the spacers from the machine shop). That improvement should keep the wheel hubs from wearing on the spindles. I am trying to tighten up the front end, while making it easier to maneuver. In the process, anything that can be bushed with newer material, IS being bushed with new material

Your fixes sound more like improvements, and if I saw them I would say "hey that's cool". But these guys are just doofus'es. The list doesn't include what was done to screw up the transmission. That's in my other "7106 wont back up" thread. Yes - they are all on one  machine! Acutally, it is in decent shape and the fixes for these things will not be too costly. I just don't like the  baling wire approach for long-term maintenance.

And speaking of you-tube mechanics, the worst one I saw a few years back was a guy adapting a snow plow on a  large-frame Simplicity to operate with what he called a "power steering gear". He scrapped the tractor hood, welded on a bunch of angle iron brackets to the front frame and mounted the steering gear vertically to raise and lower the plow, an ugly but workable fix. He described it all with great video and narrative. The only thing was, the "steering gear" was a simplicity lift actuator, complete with brackets and switch that he could have bolted to the rock shaft where it belonged and had a factory-perfect setup!

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RAC

Shade Tree Mechanic.... So just what's wrong with doing mechanic work under the shade tree?sm03

Made my share of "improvements", usually try to do one better than the original, but that's often in the eye of the beholder. I've un-done some really dumb stuff too, but some may think the same about some of my work. I don't get too hung up on the way the original engineer might've done something, just for the sake of keeping it factory. More interested in "using" it than restoring it.

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MARK (LI)

Why be mad at the previous owner?....he did what he had to do to keep it going without any body to guide him along...and that is likely why you would up with the tractor...what you showed in above pictures was visible, so you must have gotten a decent deal for yourself...look at the bright side of things :D

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AC710

Whoa..., I'm not really mad, I just liked the P.O./P.O.  connection for a title. I got this tractor expecting a project, and that's what it is. Mostly I am experiencing the consequences of some poor decisions and pointing out what can happen - like results of taking the spring out of the lift arm and mounting the regulator out in the weather. I hope to get it back to a more factory-like layout and appearance. 

I am a champion fix it up engineer, not "shade tree" but maybe "shade garage" because it's too cold in Northern Montana when I'm doing this stuff, but kudos to everyone who can keep-em runnin!

I bought this tractor for $250 because it had a good 46" simplicity plow. I wanted to upgrade from the sears plow I had adapted to my 710. I think I got a good deal on the plow and a free project tractor, to boot

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MARK (LI)

I looked at the video...I don't know what I like more...the wiring job on the battery or that precise adjustment he made with that fine quality tool...you know...that piece of angle iron....forgot about the bungee cords holding the battery down...although I was in either HD or Lowes recently and opened a hood on a tractor...either a JD or CC and the battery hold down from the factory is a plastic cable tie

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AC710
17 hours ago, MARK (LI) said:

I looked at the video...I don't know what I like more...the wiring job

I think it's really unfortunate to take what was a decent-looking vintage tractor and do this to it.  :( Especially when he started with the right stuff. I couldn't find the original video of the first mod, but it's pretty shocking.

He seems to have discovered the rock shaft and that it would work for a blade-angling attachment. I'm curious to see what he will use for an operating lever since the original is missing. Most likely angle iron. The battery install is truly awe-inspiring along with the wiring. I'll bet the charging system doesn't work, so it would be easy to access for a charging or replacement.

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Simplicity7013H

Geez! That's one of the craziest machines I have seen! Thankfully, I haven't run into one that bad so far. That B208 I picked up a while back was wired with regular 12ga house wire. 

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Chris727
On 1/7/2019 at 2:20 PM, AC710 said:

Your fixes sound more like improvements, and if I saw them I would say "hey that's cool". But these guys are just doofus'es. The list doesn't include what was done to screw up the transmission. That's in my other "7106 wont back up" thread. Yes - they are all on one  machine! Acutally, it is in decent shape and the fixes for these things will not be too costly. I just don't like the  baling wire approach for long-term maintenance.

And speaking of you-tube mechanics, the worst one I saw a few years back was a guy adapting a snow plow on a  large-frame Simplicity to operate with what he called a "power steering gear". He scrapped the tractor hood, welded on a bunch of angle iron brackets to the front frame and mounted the steering gear vertically to raise and lower the plow, an ugly but workable fix. He described it all with great video and narrative. The only thing was, the "steering gear" was a simplicity lift actuator, complete with brackets and switch that he could have bolted to the rock shaft where it belonged and had a factory-perfect setup!

I saw that video too. I think I even commented on it. Couldn't think of anything nice to say though........... 

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dhoadley
8 hours ago, Simplicity7013H said:

Geez! That's one of the craziest machines I have seen! Thankfully, I haven't run into one that bad so far. That B208 I picked up a while back was wired with regular 12ga house wire. 

Elliot, good to hear from you again. dOd

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AC710

I  couldn't locate the original video where he mounted the snowplow, but I believe he even showed where he cut the lifting arm off the plow frame because it was in the way (looks like an older model frame that did need adjustment to work on that tractor). It's just astounding.!

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AC710
16 hours ago, Chris727 said:

My 7013 Baron had the same regulator mod when purchased. Still have the pic from probably 2004.

I'll bet that fix is on page 13 of the  "Shade tree mechanic service manual". It does work, and a lot easier to hook up than the OEM model buried under the dashboard.

I think Simplicity/Allis had some brilliant engineers that designed the large frame tractors. They're reliable, clean, accessible and repairable, but everyone has a few glitches in their plans.

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AC710

Update...The latest discoveries of PO solutions:

-Trouble shifting? just hacksaw off the rear six speed pulley guard and remove the front one altogether. Also get rid of the pulley brake mechanism. Voila !- a three speed that still doesn't shift. (because a bearing and gear was trashed in the transmission)

- Can't find a tire? no problem, just go to the green store and get a JD wheel that doesn't fit or match.

- Carb leaking? Just add a shut-off. (actually someone put in a carb kit - I have the bill - but they still didn't fix it.) At least it's a good quality valve.

- gas tank hold-downs deteriorated? Just use some of the leftover electric wire from the wiring hack. I like this one, might keep it for future reference.

- Brakes hanging up? Who needs a parking brake? Just get rid of the control. Pic of replacement.

- Differential going out? Get a "professional" repairman to replace it, but he didn't bother to put in the spacer washers or any grease in the new one, so it was misaligned, skipping across the gears. Fortunately I found this problem before it did much damage.

- Battery going dead? Get rid of the safety switches on the transmission and PTO's. Put in a battery cut-off master switch. (still didn't fix it because the voltage regulator was trashed and no charging was occurring.)

-  Last pic - I'm making progress, got one wheel painted. It's too cold to do much painting without much better indoor ventilation.

IN FACT - I've gotten lots done. Rebuilt the transmission, fixed the six-speed shifting linkage, added brake rod, wiring is redone, front PTO un-stuck, painted steering box, replaced u-joint disc, new belts, got a new seat and matching front tire, ordered six speed belt guards. Now I'm moving on to the front axle that needs a bushing on the mounting bolts. I think I am still below the breakover point between "Rehab" and "parts tractor"... 

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MrSteele
On 1/7/2019 at 9:06 AM, Bill725 said:

That is what I call repairs made by redneck mechanics, meaning they think they are mechanics but really are not

Hey! watch it. I am one of those rednecks down here in the south. And I have done a heck of a lot of work under a shade tree. God gave us trees for shade, why not use it? BUT, I refuse to half a** anything and call it repaired. A temporary solution to get to a shop, sometimes. I once drove a Kaiser with a flathead Ford engine in it. My rotor button broke in two pieces in a K-Mart parking lot. I went into the store, bought some fishing line and quick setting model glue, tied my rotor button together, then made a bunch of overlapping rounds for safety, and soaked the whole apparatus in the glue. That qualifies for redneck/shade tree solution? I drove it home, and for the next few days to school until I had time to go buy a new rotor button.

 

As for the hard bushed bearing housing. It is still at the machine shop. The needle bearing will be installed in a new bushing. The housing was worn/wallowed out, at the needle bearing fitment. Only about a quarter of the needle bearing was making contact with the housing. My machine shop buddy agreed that he could bore the cast housing, freeze and install a hard steel bushing for the needle bearing to have a press fit. The bearing will make 100% contact in the new bushing. That should help alignment of the input shaft to the BGB, and will not have the tendency to wear/wallow out, like the cast housing. 

And, as for the improvements listed, the fuel cut-off was there originally, it was just located at the tank outlet, and most folks rarely use them. Mine is still there, was frozen in the open position when I got the tractor out of a ditch, so I installed an inline valve. I do miss the days of hay baling wire, though. Baling wire made perfect tank hold down brackets! Wire clothes hangers are a bit harder to twist than baling wire.

Too cold to paint? It won't stop raining down here, and moisture is killing me. I still have a little painting to do and have come up with a fine redneck shade tree solution. I have been using a propane torch to warm what I am about to paint until it is a bit too hot to handle, then quickly paint while the metal is still hot. Seems to be working on the small things like side plates, steering rod, the outer tube of the steering sector, and the lift rod, Our humidity is in the 85-99% range at temps in the upper 30s to low 40s. I have painted the bigger parts when the sun shines, and temps in the 50s, by sitting my parts in the sun and letting them warm. No, I do not heat the shop. I do have an electric heater that I use infrequently. It is well insulated, though, so temp inside rarely drops below 48. I can work in that when dressed for working outside

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AC710
15 hours ago, AC716 said:

Take the right front tire off and install one like the rear. Then u would have that old school sprint car look nailed!

Funny you should mention that. Here's the painted-on decal on the hood. Someone got into pulling at some point with this awesome machine. It does have both front and rear wheel weights that may be useful in the future.

 

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